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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Mobile problems. Use a PC and you're golden.
Thanks for the tip. :banana:

I'll have to find one on Craigslist, I used to have so many... Oh well, I've been itching to play Diablo again.
DiabLoL 1 ep 1 The Meating Room - YouTube

I swear like 10 year from now and kids will ask what a PC is :blol:
10 years in the future, that's a scary thought! Let's just take things like, a month at a time.

Ok breath Soco.
Removed the WRX turbo water feed pipe and plugged it with a choice bolt and JB Weld. T'd into the heater core line for turbo supply. No more water leaks.
Finally got a decent bleed on that stupid hydraulic clutch. Seriously considering going cable.
Aaaaaand narrowed down my intermittent no-start issue to one of the engine harness connectors; the tab is broken so it won't stay tightly connected, and the intercooler is exacerbating things by nudging it around. Reroute harness and zip tie connector first thing in the morning.
 

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'96 OBS
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235 Posts
I stuck with a cable clutch for my EJ204 swap and even with just the Exedy KSB04 kit (for the newer non-turbo EJ25 and EZ30) it feels pretty heavy. I'm honestly not sure if I'm stretching the cable or if I just haven't gotten the adjustment nuts on solidly enough. To be clear, the *weight* is fine but I think it's probably borderline for the cable.
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
^ I think the cable clutches just transfer more feeling to the pedal, I bet with a hydro clutch it would be light as a feather. I just installed the eBay 'stage2 HD' clutch from my Impreza(cable) into my Legacy(hydro) and it doesn't feel as heavy as when in the Impreza.

Do you really think you're stressing something to the point of stretching?? :eek:


In other news, the Legacy runs great, kinda, and moves pretty good at 12 psi. It is nice to have boost again, holy carp. As usual, I'm burning oil at the turbo. The return leaks, and there's more smoke out the tailpipe. Not sure if it's from the motor or a bad seal in the turbo. I'll just steal the one from what is becoming my parts WRX... :(
I thought the intermittent starting was from a loose connector, but it turns out some of the harness coming through the firewall was damaged at some point. I found a couple wires with corroded holes in the insulation. Jiggling the harness can cause idle fluctuations bad enough to stall the car. I taped it up and secured it for now.
Unfortunately, those are the minor things, compared to the mean ass ticking sound I'm afraid is valve to piston contact. It's too high pitched to be rod knock, and sounds too solid to be lifter noise. Idk, I'll check my timing. I noticed paint marks from a tech that don't exactly line up with the timing marks, so maybe I'll try lining those up instead? If that fails, I guess I'll try a destroked 2.5 until I finally finish my 2.2 build. There's too many engines I want to try, not enough time.
:projectsti.com:
 

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'96 OBS
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235 Posts
I feel like my clutch engagement point keeps getting noticeably further down the pedal travel every couple weeks. When I go to adjust it this time I'll mark the adjustment nuts to make sure they're not moving since I've had that problem before. It's also a 23 year old cable, so there's that too. Maybe a fresh one would hold up better. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
The cheapest universal 2.5" FMIC kit I could find on eBay showed up last week, along with... well, I got straight to work on the front mount.
Did I say it was cheap?



BAM, no progress, just done


Turbo eats from the scoop




Didn't think I'd ever use this, but thanks to the blow thru MAF there's no need to recirc the BOV. The real question is do I put a louver/vent in the bumper right there?




It disappears quickly...





I get giddy looking at these pics, can't wait to drive it. I managed to find the perfect truck radiator to snake my 2" hotside through the fender.
(1) I'm missing 3 hose clamps of an apparently magical size, ~2-3/8" is JUST BARELY too big or too small for the dozens of hose clamps I have, including the T-bolts from the intercooler kit.
(2) PCV valve needs to be plumbed in after the MAF, since the ECU's expecting metered air through there. I'll have to run all the vacuum from in front of the turbo, not my ideal solution. I do have a vacuum pump from a 90's F**d turbo diesel, but it's big and I don't want to mount another pulley. Best option would be to use the venturi effect of the exhaust.
(3) Purge Control UGGHHH! There's a pressure sensor on the passenger strut tower fed by a solenoid that splits a vacuum signal between said sensor and the purge/evap/charcoal canister. The vacuum is sourced from I think both the purge control solenoid and another solenoid, or perhaps a port on the throttle body... gotta study it more and figure out where I can actually steal vacuum from and keep the sensor happy because catch can vacuum is not good enough. 🤷
All in all I'm stoked to finally have a front mount setup, even if it's cheap. Looks the business if you actually notice it, and a little extra space behind the throttle body is good because I have a touchy harness coming out of the firewall.

Phase 1 is nearly complete!
 

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,733 Posts
Not sure how much I like that transition into the engine bay on the cold side. Looks like the hose get's pretty kinky.
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Not sure how much I like that transition into the engine bay on the cold side. Looks like the hose get's pretty kinky.
I tend to agree with you, but when you buy the cheap kits you don't get any 45° bends lol. And isn't the stock turbo to intercooler path pretty kinky anyway??? :burnout:

holy piping, batman, got lag?
Really think it'll be that bad? I've read the increase in lag is negligible. But I don't mind lag anyway, it's fun to feel the turbo spool up!


Besiiiiiiides, I do intend to redo the piping after I order another kit. I was thinking of trying one specifically for a Subaru to see if I could get some cleaner sweeps, but I hate how most of them 180 out of the turbo. My setup HAS to run clockwise through the engine bay anyway. Because reasons. But I will clean things up. Aside from opening up room in the bay and just being a fun mod, this is partly a desperate attempt to get rid of a persistent boost leak. Funny, cause I added like 200% more failure zones...

Anyway, I must have disturbed that touchy harness, cause now she won't start. Ah well, I've been jiggling and repositioning the harness and it only fired once, so I'll have to take the multi meter to it to see if there's a broken/shorted wire. I haven't even messed with this part of the harness!:boxer:
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Just discovered that my fuel pump and a few other engine related components continue to receive power after shutting down and removing the key.

Mid manifold swap (fuel lines disconnected), I connected my battery to roll up the windows. Well, obviously the pump primed some gas out, wasn't thinking about it, didn't notice it. However, after rolling the windows up and turning off the car, I heard what I first thought were the radiator fans, then running water. Hop out and look at the bay, and fuel is GUSHING from the filter across the engine bay into the alternator! A steady 5/16" stream of gas inches from my battery, and apparently the engine bay is still live for whatever reason. I got lucky and pulled the terminal off the battery without sparking, but that was one of the scariest moments of my life! I literally thought my car was gonna erupt into a fireball and cook me.

I'm letting the fuel evaporate in the sun while I comb through the wiring diagrams. My TPS and MAF have power after shutdown, along with the fuel pump of course. Maybe I crossed the wrong wires when I removed the security system...

Anyone got any ideas?
 

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'96 OBS
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235 Posts
huh, those are all things that run from the ECU. TPS should get 5v from the ECU. Fuel pump should be under ECU control (so it can do the prime pulse then actually turn on with cranking/running). So maybe you've managed to convince your ECU the car is running when it's not? And you're also feeding it direct 12v from the battery instead of 12v from the ignition switch?
 
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