I have read extensively that on the H4 the combo of very light flywheel, (under 11 pounds) and the really light crank pulley can fool the ecu which causes that issue especially when coasting to a stop.
People have said it affects even H6, though I know that it doesn't both the EG33 as I have run that on my 6 speed swapped svx.
Turns out my BOV was the culprit. If it's connected to the manifold, the terrific vacuum at idle will pull the valve open. Since it's not hooked up for recirc yet, this allows unmetered air into the engine. The result was ~19:1 AFRs at idle making the car stumble and generally run like garbage.
Now I've got the BOV tee'd with the RRFPR connected to the turbo compressor nipple. My stock FPR is unhooked and so is the wastegate.:naughty:
Car goes like a bat outta hell! But the AFRs lean out after 6ish pounds of boost. I would've thought the 8:1 RRFPR would take care of that... time for bigger injectors I guess.
Moral of the story: GeorgeOfTheJungle, disconnect your BOV, QUICK! wait do you have MAP...?
So I haven't really been driving around with no wastegate. I JUST got it running, don't wanna blow it up. I had the WG disco'ed for a short time just to see what it would do. After like 6-8ish psi it would lean out bad, to the point the engine would dramatically loose power and stumble. And I saw it shoot over 14! I don't believe it caused any damage though, no strange sounds or behaviors during or after the incident.
Right now, with the WG, I'm getting about 6 psi, with afrs starting around 14:1 in boost tapering to 12ish. I believe my RRFPR is damaged, so I'm looking for another one of those, plus a hose to connect my BOV to my intake, as well as a manual boost controller. I'd like to see 8-10 psi and I'm confident the engine can take it if it gets enough fuel.
Anyway it's a blast to drive now, compared to how pitifully slow it was. It's nearly impossible to stay out of BOOOOOOOOOST!
Already thinking about WMI and a front mount, why not twin charge it?
My OBX FMU was nothing but trouble. Besides the fact they come from the factory needing some modifications to function correctly, mine was missing part of a gasket, then this small metal disc that restricts the flow of fuel got a hole punched in it from the piston.
The theory of the FMU is solid, but poorly executed. With quality materials it would probly work pretty well for more than a week.
So after trying various ways of band-aiding that thing back together, I said to hell with it, and dropped in some 550cc STI yellows. I know what you're thinking; it's gonna run pig rich.
Well, it did. But no problem, everytime I've tried to plug in my o2 sensor it causes the engine to run crazy lean. Like won't even idle, 19:1+ afr's lean. Hopefully that will counteract the oversized injectors!
...Nope. Still runs crazy rich with the o2 plugged in. Ok last resort time. I've taken a leaf outta Reddevil's book and wired a potentiometer into the MAF signal line. If you haven't read his thread, it's AWESOME! Installed my supercharger today! - NASIOC
He apparently used a 50k one, all I could scrounge up were a 100k and a 500k! Dropped in the 100k, and nothing with the o2 connected, but disconnected it works like a charm! Turn the knob and my afr's climb! YES! But it wasn't enough, I had to switch to the 500k to get (more than) enough adjustment.
So now I've ditched the stupid FMU and just have 550cc injectors and a MAF pot, and my car is faaaaast! Well it is when the clutch holds! It will slip as soon as boost hits from 3rd through 5th, and sometimes in 2nd that's what 11.5 psi gets me.
But damn she moves! :banana: and my AFR's are right where I want them in boost if I'm just slightly rich at idle, or I can lean things out for long cruises at constant speed. This seems too good to be true, but my EGT's and AFR's are excellent, so I'll roll with it. Boost is 11.5 psi now and no sign of detonation.
Also installed my CF hood, jeezy petes it's light! Pics this afternoon.
Not sure what I used, just some metal pipe with rubber hose on each end, grabbed it from a parts bin so it's from some Subaru or another at least. It runs tightly behind my throttle body from the stock BOV. The sketchiest part was cutting a hole in my turbo inlet elbow, but that went well enough and the rubber house fit very snuggly in there. I then sealed the perimeter by smearing Ultra Black on there and letting it dry overnight. That stuff holds great and has enough flex to allow for movement and vibration. Too bad I lost that cool BOV sound, though...
I need to mount my boost controller better, now it's just ziptied to the MAF sensor harness.
The plan for today is to get my intercooler shroud mounted to my new hood. This weekend I intend to do the clutch, and I figure I might as well throw in the 4.111 trans while I'm at it. Basically it depends on how the rear diff comes out. Im a little nervous that's where I'm gonna get stuck with snapped bolts and torn bushings/mounts. Wish me luck.
P.S. just wanna say that my thermostat housing is surviving just fine with all the heat wrap.
Last night I changed my spark plugs out. Initially I had bought NGK BKR8EIX's, because that's what Joejoe69 used and I've more or less emulated his build. So that's what I've been running.
However, the plugs that were already in the 22t heads I got were BKR5EIX's. 3 ranges colder.
Screw it, I need all the cooling I can get, right?
So far, so good. No misfire and she purrs really smooth.
I also reworked my bov recirc hose because it kept popping a leak allowing unmetered air in, causing my car to run like crap.
This part snakes behind the throttle body
Here's the other end, Ultra Black seals it to the turbo inlet very well.
Here's the whole shebang, needs some cleaning and organizing but there it is.
Yesterday I swapped in a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out/pilot bearings. Normally I'd yank the motor and trans as one and break them apart outside of the car, and that's how I'm doing it from now on!
I dropped the trans out the bottom just to avoid disconnecting any coolant lines... what a nightmare. At least on a rusty old Suub like mine. Anyway, on to the fun.
Started by removing the intercooler/BOV/wiring/vacuum lines and anything else that would stop me from reaching down in and plucking the old clutch out. Then crawled under to drop the exhaust, and see such lovely sights as;
Well I guess that rear differential is staying. I had also wanted to swap in a 4.11 trans I have, but maybe another time. I knew I didn't have all weekend and it was about all I could do just to get the driveshaft cover off.
Wouldn't have happened without THIS beauty, five feet of 'motivation'
Now I can slide the trans back... I think! She was stuck good, but enough yanking and swearing plus a couple thin blade screwdrivers prevailed.
Ugh, looks kinda juicy in there... Pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel next. I've definitely pulled worse looking clutches out, but if it slips, it's gotta go.
Even the throw-out bearing spun and sounded fine, maybe I'll just keep it, just in case...don't judge me!
Ok, now that the flywheel is outta the way, let's take a look:
Yup, definitely a leaking oil separator plate. Good thing I planned ahead ...not. I cleaned up the plate and the mating surfaces then liberally applied Ultra Black. That stuff is awesome.
Welp, now I can start putting it all back together. Ain't it a shame that they paint the pressure plates all these vibrant colors, and no one gets to see it?
Reassembly was MOSTLY a cakewalk, with the exception of landing the trans back on the two lower alignment dowels AND sliding the bellhousing past the turbine housing. That took everything I had and almost bested me. Finally after about two hours of raising, lowering, pushing, pulling, pounding, and praying:
Got it! After that, all I did was pump the jack under the transmission twice, and everything LITERALLY slid right together. Never seen anything like it. I was actually cheering.
So I reinstalled everything, super excited to be on the home stretch, went to start it up, and it sounds like the timing belt has suddenly skipped a tooth. Impossible. Didn't touch it. In fact, everything is EXACTLY the same except the clutch. Which I do need to adjust a little. ****** is heavy and grabs RIGHT off the floor.
First on the list is clean my throttle body. I did take a quick rag to it mid swap, and I'm thinking I spread some gunk around and messed up the idle position, or dirtied up the TPS... idk. If that doesn't do it, I'll pop off the timing cover and see what's what. Then I'll reinstall the stock injectors and see if it just has to 're-learn' it's idle. Honestly it seems like a vacuum leak, except I'm pretty sure everything is connected tightly, and the AFR's are too rich. Maybe an injector is stuck open?
Anybody know if that transmission-to-chassis ground could throw my idle? That got snapped in the process, as usual.
I would recommend picking up one of the metal oil separator plate kits and keeping it on the shelf for next time the motor comes out. The plastic plates are prone to cracking and breaking. Definitely worthwhile to swap out for metal.
That's not a bad idea at all FryphaX, I may have to get a couple at the rate I'm going.
The ej18 is a boss, and has garnered my utmost respect. Unfortunately my carelessness is killing it. My headgaskets are leaking so badly I've stopped driving it, and if I won't drive it you know it's bad. It's my fault of course for using used HG's. They had only seen a couple hundred miles, but I suppose that's enough.
Anyway, the 1.8t has to come out, for a reseal at the very least, and I'm working on another frankenmotor right now. I'm hoping to have it in the car this weekend... I'll keep the 1.8t of course, but idk if it'll go back into this particular coupe. If this new motor doesn't last (and I'm using new gaskets of course) then it's straight to the 6 cylinder.
Earlier this weekend I installed my intercooler sprayer reservoir in the trunk and ran the hose up to nozzles in the intercooler shroud. Fits like a charm. Haven't run the electrical yet.
The real fun happened yesterday.
At this point I couldn't put it off anymore...
That was a little scary but it turned out pretty well in the end. Used to be N/A heads, now they're TURBO heads!
A truly impressive combination, I'd recommend 2.2 heads and boost to anyone with an ej18 looking for more power. Just don't be like me. USE NEW HEADGASKETS for Pete's sake.
I had to transfer some parts from my 1.8 to the new engine. Wanted to use my parallel fueling setup to relocate the stock FPR but the rails are mounted differently. EJ18 rails have the bolts to the outside and a greater space in between the bolts, so they can't just be flipped. That's ok, modification was simple enough.
Then there's the wonderful EGR. Both cars had it, but only the 1.8 had a temp sensor, at least that I can find. I suppose I'll hang it down by the exhaust so it stays warm.
A.C. compressor bracket had to switch too, 1.8 on the right.
Not pictured: I used the throttle body from the 1.8 because of its built in IACV and because it looked like to 2.5 throttle linkage would've interfered with my BOV. This leaves a gang hole in the side of the 25D manifold where the IACV used to be. Gotta make a block off plate for it soon... I'm using a piece of 3/4" moulding (yes, wood) for now.
I'm deeply ashamed of myself and would like to sincerely apologize to everyone in the community.:stupid:
So far, pretty good. My idle is incredibly lean, I'm seeing 19/20 to 1 AFR's and I'm not thrilled about it. It's either my backwoods blockoff plate or the timing is off... I guess with four cams it's twice as likely.
Anything other than idle is AWESOME! The dual cam heads kinda have a sound, it just sounds a little meaner at WOT than previous SOHC engines I've heard. Maybe that's why the boxer 6's sound so good. It has lots more grunt off the line. That's hugely noticeable. It seems like this engine would be plenty peppy without a turbo.
And way less boost is as fast or faster, I'm more surprised by the magnitude of the difference. At 11.5 psi the 1.8b/2.2h actually felt solidly fast, but at 8 psi the 2.2b/2.5h feels faster. There's more power with less boost sooner in the rpm range. The power band feels considerably more useable.
There's one thing that's really weird, I'll get a video of it soon. Under 'high' boost (relatively speaking, of course) there's a VERY peculiar sound from the engine bay. I think it sounds like a tiny man screaming his head off. It's actually pretty comical, but I'm still anxious to figure it out. Gotta be a small boost leak somewhere. But how do I find it??
This is mostly the progress of my srp 2001 L coupe, but also some 98L and 2018 brz stuff.
I got the car in August 2011 with 100,500 miles. It was my first car, and it had lots of problems at the start. Almost sold it a few times, but once I read about all the swap stuff, I...
The car is always evolving. The sedan is on its way out and im beginning to swap the parts remaining from the sedan over to my newly aquired rbp coupe. will try to update thread. make sure to sub to the channel for all the content!
First day home...
Hello to all, so I picked up a gc8 a few weeks ago from norcal, from a rs25 member on here.
The cars a 1995 one owner red Impreza L coupe with 168k when purchased, All stock, auto 1.8L, & comes with the safety package all wheel disc brakes & abs.
My plans are a full 2.5rs front end & trim...
This is the story of my Rev D 2.5 manual 2003 Outback BH5. It has 423,000km and looks the part.
This car will take over daily duties from my GF8 so I can repair the rear end damage.
My parents bought this car second hand in roughly 2006 to replace an old Mazda 626 wagon. It had about...
1995 Rally Coupé
Blew the motor on the OBRX again.. So instead of building it I bought a car to DD till I can fix the wagon. Long term is to eventually cage and race the car in stage rally.
How I picked it up
1995 Subaru Impreza L
1.8 FWD AUTO
133k on the ticker
ALSO! FUCK Photo bucket...