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What engine should I put in my car?

  • EJ18 Block/EJ18 Heads

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • EJ18 Block/EJ22T Heads

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • EJ22 Block/EJ22T Heads

    Votes: 6 50.0%
  • EJ22 Block/EJ25D Heads

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • EJ25 Block/EJ22T Heads

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • EZ30D

    Votes: 3 25.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 3 25.0%

  • Total voters
    12
41 - 60 of 208 Posts

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Page One First Post Updated


You really need to swap the water pump as is moves the location of the thermostat/housing to the "front" (right below the timing belt cover) of the pump instead of being on the bottom of the pump. I tried to get away with the factory water pump, but there just isn't enough room with the exhaust manifold where it is.
Uuuggggghhhh I was afraid of that...

Well I was gonna paint/wrap the manifold anyway, I may just see what happens. Yes, I'm using the ej18 water pump, here's what it looks like with the WRX manifold.
From above:


From below:


Dead on (this one was tricky to get):


As can be seen, the flange on the manifold is nearly touching the thermostat housing, I'm thinking there's about half an inch of clearance. I'll see how much exhaust wrap I can squeeze I there and use a silicone radiator hose or something. Worst case scenario is I'll just end up grabbing a WRX water pump.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Last night I had a couple hours to fiddle with my L, didn't make any great strides... Besides putting together a workable turbo intake! 🍌 This was a major concern for me since I really didn't want to get a new PS pump and modify my Intake Manifold to use a WRX inlet, or custom fab up/down pipes for a rotated setup or something. One small coupler between the elbow off the turbo and the next elbow is the only piece I'll need to replace eventually but it'll do for now.







I'm very happy to be able to use the stockish airbox. It's from a Legacy or something with a 2.5 so the inlet from the fender is larger than the 1.8's, but I'll probly modify that and the fender wall a bit for more airflow.

I also ran the water supply line for the turbo and the oil feed is ready to go, just need to acquire my oil pressure sending unit to complete the circuit. My next hurdle is to organize the wiring from the firewall to the intake manifold. It wants to occupy the space that is meant for the intercooler y-pipe. There's also the crankcase vent right there further gumming up the works. Good thing I have another Subie to get to work with, I thought I'd be able to do this in a single weekend! :screwy:
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Somehow I never heard about the turbo to intercooler issues with NA-T's, and go figure my shizzle doesn't line up! So I've got to find a way to modify the y-pipe I guess. I'm not interested in cutting the throttle body or the intercooler, nor do I wish to add a spacer between the ex manifold and up pipe. Hmmmm I've got some reading and thinking and measuring and more thinking to do.
 

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Registered
92 SVX Pearl White/Black
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182 Posts
As far as the O2 sensor thing goes I am thinking what was meant was the after cat "3rd" O2 that measures catalyst efficiency, If I am not mistaken any subaru before 96 wont have it.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Gene you are correct, I have only one (stock) o2 sensor, it was initially before the cat. Now I have it in my turbo manifold and my wideband o2 will go in the foremost bung of my down pipe. I'm not anticipating any problems except having to extend my o2 harness.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Last night I ran out to the local auto parts store and got some 1-7/8" inner diameter radiator hose to extend my intercooler y-pipe and a 2-3/8" outer diameter exhaust coupler to complete my turbo inlet. Also grabbed some exhaust wrap while I was there, but forgot to grab the metal zipties! :bonk:

I had to cut everything. I also had to swap the y-pipe from a 02-03 WRX intercooler onto my 06-07/FXT(?) intercooler. The older style Y has slightly narrower angle legs and a little longer reach to cross the deeper core. Here you can see the slight difference between them, I've already swapped them:


Boy that did NOT want to go on there, but I made it go. :D

After I struggled to get that together, I test fitted it and found I still couldn't reach the turbo, even though swapping the y-pipe gained me over an inch towards the turbo. That's ok, the main thing is that the angle changed and I can extend straight forward instead of at an angle. So I took the y-pipe back off and cut out the flex section near the turbo outlet.



I tried to cut into the side of the flex section to give the cut ends a little lip to help grab the hose.



Then I ran out of daylight. Didnt get pics of the finished inlet yet, I'll have them up today.
Today I'd like to get the coolant return line run, sort out my IM wiring, trim/paint/wrap my EM, and MAYBE even start it!
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
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27,854 Posts
this is very similar to what i did, but i used some pvc piping as well. then when i was done with that design (ie: it kept failing), i bought the same shaped parts via amazon. some silicon hosing and some steel pipe. cut it all to shove in there, clamped em down. zero issues since.
 

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Bluebird
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691 Posts
I had to order a different y-pipe off ebay to make it fit, but make it fit I did. Trust us, the finished product is well work the price of admission! Cheap BOOOOOOOOOST!
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
true story. all being told, i'm prolly in it about 1700 or to date. and about 500 of that is AEM gauges. so...
I'm pretty sure I'm well north of 2k at this point... but that's with buying things I didn't need to buy. I never intended to stick to a budget, this is just for funs!
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
So Close...

First thing I noticed when I lifted the hood yesterday morning:


******* rodents!

Anyway, the radiator hose fits like a charm, hopefully it works better for me than for GOTJ!



After I had confirmed fitment of the hose, I focused on the exhaust. I had to (well maybe not) trim some cast in heat shield mounts to make wrapping the manifold easier. See those ugly chunks of dead weight slowing me down?



No you don't.



Coincidentally I ended up with the perfect place to tap for my EGT probe.



After a quick trip to the auto parts store to buy those metal zip ties I forgot to get yesterday, I heat-wrapped my exhaust manifold. First time using the stuff, I think I did ok, and I had plenty left over to do the up pipe.





I also 'shielded' my T-stat housing, let's see if she can take the heat!



Protect ya wires



That's about it for now, I actually pretty much finished up in the engine bay. It was dark out though, and my phone was dead so no pics of that just yet.

I still have to re-install the radiator, run the vac lines, and go over all my bolts again just to be sure everything's tight. Unfortunately, before I do any of that I really should fix the timing; Twice now I've managed to get the driver side cam out of time by a tooth! :bonk:

Should be firing it up today!!
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,854 Posts
with yours being a stock header/up, your turbo is in the stock location. mine is all rotated and whatnot from using the subachad up/down, which added a nice little level of annoyance.



your setup looks a lot cleaner than mine. nice work sir.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Thank you gentlemen, I appreciate the kind words.
Here is the completed setup:





I'd just like to point out that the turbo oil feed line sits comfortably where the MAF harness used to be...


The camshafts or timing belt fought me to the bitter end, maybe they were cooperating against me, I'm not sure. I had the tensioner in and out eight times or so, to the point it's probly at the end of its life already. It seemed as though the timing mark on the drivers side sprocket would always end up on one side or the other of the mark on the rear timing cover. I made very sure I only moved one tooth at a time and could not get it centered. In either position the engine ran like crap. I got somewhat frustrated because this was the last thing to do before firing it up. Hell, it already had fluids!
I finally got the engine to run 97% normally by putting all the sprocket marks at 12 o'clock regardless of the marks in the rear covers. Still I think it's out of time, but I'm wicked close dood. I've read about others hearing alarming noises from 22t heads until they seemed to 'settle'. So maybe it's loud ass lifters or something? Maybe it's a worn out tensioner? Could the 22t timing be different? What about the cam trigger, I didn't swap it?
Well I drove it a little and it actually drove ok...ish. I can hear spooling around 2300, which is pleasantly surprising, and it builds boost alright, but I kept my foot out of it for the most part. The rpms like to plunge after letting of the throttle, more throttle, worse it stutters. Probly due to my BOV not recirculating just yet.
It was crazy lean at first. I was seeing 18- 19:1 at idle, and cruising light throttle was from 15 to 17:1! Not cool, man.
I unplugged the vac lines for the FPR and that helped, now it's idling like 12s and cruise/throttle is 13/14:1. Sometimes it goes down to low 11s for a little bit, it's a little sporadic. Same injectors and everything else I was using before and they worked great.
Also I cracked the bottom of my radiator pushing it down into it's mounts because f that thing am i right? So now I gotta find one of those too. While we're in the area, here's some pics of my solution to having an n/a water pump.





Stayed touch-able even with the engine at operating temp and the exhaust wrap smoking like crazy, they never mentioned that in the directions.

I think I'll keep trying the timing, after a bit more research.
Cheers.
 

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Bluebird
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691 Posts
The lifters on those ej22t heads were noisy for me at first, then they smoothed out as I drove it. I also remember the headers weren't sealing 100% on the gaskets, so I gently re-torqued them.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Well, I'm impressed by that cam gear bolt. 3/8ths drive just couldn't handle it, a first in my experience. And I've gotten some stuck bolts out.



Look at him back there, just laughing at me! Maybe I'll work on the SVX for a bit...
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,854 Posts
for the wonmky idle and dipping, i semi solved this by drilling a small hole in the butterfly inside the TB. i don't remember what size, but it helped when the butterfly slammed shut when coming to a stop. still not perfect, but helpful. i also think my IACV is old and gunked/worn. i too do not have my BOV as a recirc. i'm not in boost when i'm coasting into a stop so i don't think it's the issue. i honestly think it's my combo of LW flywheel and LW crank pulley.

/left field tangent.
 
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