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What engine should I put in my car?

  • EJ18 Block/EJ18 Heads

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • EJ18 Block/EJ22T Heads

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • EJ22 Block/EJ22T Heads

    Votes: 6 50.0%
  • EJ22 Block/EJ25D Heads

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • EJ25 Block/EJ22T Heads

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • EZ30D

    Votes: 3 25.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 3 25.0%

  • Total voters
    12
21 - 40 of 208 Posts

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
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464 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
that looks a lot like New Castle, Co. Is that where you are at?
Kinda close, I'm staying in Minturn, about 10 min from Vail :naughty: Just got off the mountain actually, first time I've been boarding in probly 6+ years... I can't wait to not be able to walk for the rest of my 'vacation' haha
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
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464 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Yesterday I traded out the lower portion of my Impreza's air filter box because the one for the EJ18 had a roughly two inch hole to pull air through from the fender. I happened to have one from a Legacy or Outback kicking around, and the fender hole is like three and a half inches. Threw that in, and immediately noticed the car feels more solid. Can't really say faster, but it seems more willing to go when I'm just taking it easy and not driving aggressively. Unfortunately my cruising and light throttle AFR's were now around 15.2/15.3!

Enter this guy:


I got a steal of a deal on this genuine Walbro 255 from Flat4awd. Can't thank you enough!

I figured what's the worst that could happen? Either I'll be running too rich or nothing will really change. Screw it, in it goes. I'll just yank these seats out and OH GREAT.


Just my luck haha, you can hardly tell that's SUPPOSED to be a Philips head screw. Well I'd prefer not to drill it out if I don't have to, so I tried grinding a slot in it.


Ok, that came out pretty well... I'll just grab this bigass flathead and... gently now, easy does it...


Success! :banana:

I think a big part of this technique working lies in the details. You wanna grind a deep enough slot to grab with the flathead, but you don't want to go all the way through the screw/bolt head and slice it in half. I also put the flathead in the slot and then gave it a few firm taps with a hammer to try and 'seat' it in there and also to 'break' loose the threads. Don't break the head off though!


******* rodents.

From here on it was pretty straightforward. The filter sock thing that came with the Walbro sits at a 90 degree angle to the pump, whereas the stock one is only 45 degrees out. This is because the pump itself sits at a 45, and allows the filter sock to lay flat in the tank. I just reused the stocker for now. It's a little dirty outside, but inside is clean so I'm okay with it until I find a new one (hint hint cough cough Flat4awd).

Here's the Walbro all mounted up with the stock sock. There's the stock fuel pump next to it with the TINY aftermarket sock. Even though the pumps are sitting at different angles, you can still kinda tell that the aftermarket sock wouldn't work. My estimate is fuel starvation with around an eighth of a tank left!


This isn't the first fuel pump I've replace, but I'm always a little thrown by those open electrical connections SUBMERGED IN FUEL. Just kinda goes against all that stuff I was taught about electricity and fluids/gasoline and ignition sources... oh well.

After reinstalling the fuel pump assembly, I just used my remote starter from a safe distance to test it out :p

No worries, everything works great... wait what's that sound? Holy crap this pump is LOUD! Oh well, I listen to loud music anywho, and nothing is louder than my tires right now.

AFR's are now mid 14's when cruising/light throttle. I'm good with that. Also noticed a bit more pep. Could be placebo, but I really think I improved my cars drive-ability!

Not the fuel economy though.
 

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Registered
92 SVX Pearl White/Black
Joined
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182 Posts
This is Awesome, I hope to follow this and see how it goes, also waiting for some boosted EZ30.......
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
also waiting for some boosted EZ30.......
You and me both! I constantly wonder if I should forget turboing the 1.8 but I've already spent too much money and time to turn back now...

I'd really like to find a ride 1st gen Legacy and drop the EZ30 in there, but those are hard to find in my area.

How's your SVX running? I've got a 92 Pearl White with black on top as well, absolutely LOVE that car.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
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464 Posts
Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
So, this weekend was very productive :D

Got my SVX running again, just in case...
Also got my 'Preza on some new rims!


So I elected to swap the 22T heads on yesterday, got started about 9am. I tore everything off the top of the block while I drained the 'coolant'.


Then I tinkered with my turbo oil feed and oil pressure switch.



I purchased a 3/8 BSPT to 4AN adapter on eBay and put that where the pressure switch was. Then, using the bushing from another engine, I put the pressure switch in a galley port on the rear of the block.



No turning back now.


I got the other head off as well. Then I cleaned the mating surfaces, and mounted the drivers side 22T head.


At some point I quickly cleaned up and ran out to O'Reillys to pick up my spark plugs that came in. I'll be using NGK Iridium BKR8EIX, same as Joejoe69 did in his 1.8T.
Then I was able to halfway bolt up the WRX exhaust manifold to see where the up pipe would line up so I could...

BAM! Little bit o time with an angle grinder fixes most anything.

Once I was satisfied that I had brutalized my crossmember enough, I slapped the other head on and then re-applied the timing gear.


From here on its all about the boost!



So after that I got the intake manifold back on and the sun started to get low so I cleaned up and went in.

All in all, I'm very happy with my Sunday. I've never done head gaskets before so I'm hoping I didn't mess that up too bad. I was able to get the old heads off and install the new ones without moving the block whatsoever. Didn't even have to jack up the sides, although it was tricky.
I'm debating on installing my RRFPR now or waiting to see what my AFRs are.

Still to do:
Install down pipe
Install turbo
Run turbo coolant lines
Cobble turbo inlet together
Drill and tap passenger head for exhaust stud
Mount intercooler
Install timing belt end covers
Reconnect fuel lines
Reconnect vacuum lines
Drill and tap ex. manifold for EGT probe
Relocate EGR canister
Heat wrap wiring harness
Fill oil/coolant
Drive?!
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
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27,852 Posts
yeah, you're gonna wanna box that back in.

- make sure you have an AFR gauge so you can see what you're running. see if you even need that RRFPR. i get away without running it for some reason.

-i'm not really sure about the 95's as far as an upstream o2, but if it has it, you're also gonna need the sensor pre-turbo.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
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464 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
i'm not really sure about the 95's as far as an upstream o2, but if it has it, you're also gonna need the sensor pre-turbo.
I absolutely DO have an AFR, do you mean the factory o2 sensor before the turbo or my aftermarket AFR o2 sensor?

And will I really need to box that hole in? I think I read somewhere that the crossmember was still plenty rigid... I was planning on swapping to a turbo crossmember when I change out my steering rack but we'll see.
 

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Registered
Bluebird
Joined
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690 Posts
I never boxed my xmember, and never had an issue. I highly doubt a 4"x 4" section is going to matter with that thick of metal. Are you entering this thing in stage rally? LOL. :eek:rly:

In my experience, the most tedious part of this endevour was wiring the gauges and plumbing coolant, oil feed/return. Making the tmic fit, etc...still far easier then splicing a harness in my opinion.

Awesome progress, you're getting there! Did you use composite gaskets or mls? :cool:
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
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27,852 Posts
what i meant by that is two different sensors.

you'll need the afr gauge with sensor after turbo. but if you have a front o2 sensor that came with the car, it needs to be pre-turbo.
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
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464 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
what i meant by that is two different sensors.

you'll need the afr gauge with sensor after turbo. but if you have a front o2 sensor that came with the car, it needs to be pre-turbo.
Prefect, that's what I got going on, thanks for clarifying. I just meant which sensor should be pre turbo, as I do indeed have a stock o2. I've been running without it and the AFR in its place.

... it's been fiiiiiine
 

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Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
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464 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I ran back up to Maine yesterday to see Flat4awd again, I picked up an alternative turbo inlet because it's sooooooo much closer to the intake manifold than I thought it'd be. I've read the build threads and seen the pics, but it's still surprisingly tight.

I didn't get back early enough to use any daylight so I basically blue balled myself as far as my impreza is concerned. I just cannot wait to get working on it again!

I realized another impending issue: the thermostat housing is close to the exhaust manifold. So close I'm not sure I can even slide the coolant hose into the housing. Can I swap to another t-stat housing or am I boned and need to change out my water pump? Thanks in advance.
 

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Registered
Joined
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1 Posts
I realized another impending issue: the thermostat housing is close to the exhaust manifold. So close I'm not sure I can even slide the coolant hose into the housing. Can I swap to another t-stat housing or am I boned and need to change out my water pump? Thanks in advance.
Did you swap to a WRX/EJ22T water pump? It's hard to tell in your pictures but it looks like the EJ18 pump... I'm currently building an EJ18T as well, you really need to swap the water pump as is moves the location of the thermostat/housing to the "front" (right below the timing belt cover) of the pump instead of being on the bottom of the pump. I tried to get away with the factory water pump, but there just isn't enough room with the exhaust manifold where it is.
 
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