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GC8F2DD
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Discussion Starter #1
1. STi Suspension
2. Front Strut Bar
3. Rear Strut Bar
4. Anti Lift Control Kit
5. Front/Rear Sway Bar Endlinks
6. 20mm Rear Sway Bar

What else do you guys recommend for my 7th setup on my suspension? I was thinking about STi rear top mounts and MRT front adjustable mounts.
 

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95 Impreza L AWD
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7th setup? What all have you been through so far?
 
Silver 2K RS Coupe
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If you have already done the 1-6 on your list, I'd go for the group N strut tops or pillow balls, tires, and the HD rear sway bar mount. A heavier front bar will bring back the understeer. You may want to also consider the adjustable rear control and trailing links. If the thought of a tire with a 60 treadwear doesn't scare you as much as it does me, check out Yokohama's A032R tires. Everybody who runs them says once you try, you will be addicted to R-compound and never go back. ;)
 

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GC8F2DD
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Discussion Starter #7
ooops

Oh btw i do have tires

Group N bushings....I want it but I dont' think i can get it installed at affordable price :d

i'm keepin 19/20 swaybar setup...just right balance :)

Does HD swaybar mount actually help?
 
Silver 2K RS Coupe
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Well, the HD mount isn't really a performance upgrade. It is mostly to ensure that the OEM mount doesn't BREAK with the tremendously increased forces incurred with a fat roll bar.

The stock mount is designed to support the forces incurred with the wimpy stock rear bar. When you go to say, a 20-22-24 rear bar, the forces present are about 316%, 628%, 917% greater!

>>source: http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/index1.htm

I have heard from a couple people that the HD mount does quicken getting into the bar's rate, much like the HD links do by removing the flex and / or compliance. Can anybody here back that up?

BTW, your setup sounds like it is pretty close to perfect.

Pulling each corner of the suspension off and taking them appart and putting them back together is a pain in the ass, but it really isn't that complicated. each corner of the suspension is only held in by 2 big bolts at the bottom, 3 small bolts at the top, and the brake line clip which comes out with pliers. Taking the spring off of the strut is just 1 nut, and it zips off in 3 seconds with an electric impact wrench. With these cars, you don't even need a spring compressor. Close care must be taken to re-align the spring perches properly when you put the assy. back together, but really, it isn't hard to do! ;)

You can put Group-N top hats in with maybe $300 in tools, and then you have total control on fixing and tweaking your ride forever!
I know you can do it! :biggest: If "UCI" means UC Irvine, I'd be happy to help you out with it of you want to come up to the valley.

Changing clutches and flywheels, that is another story.....
 

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GC8F2DD
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Discussion Starter #9
btw

btw how about recommendations on adjustable mounts?

I know of existence of NVH on Cusco , but as long as it doesn't shatter like ALK when i hit a pothole, I think i can take it. I would like some comments from those who have them.
I also heard MRT has street ver. of adjustable mounts with NVH bushings. Has anyone tried those?
 

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GC8F2DD
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Discussion Starter #10
Group N

I bought Group N bushings

don't know when i'll have time to put them in though.

Still hesitating on adjustable front top mounts because i'm not sure what NVH will be like.

I bough rear STi mount.

I'm having too much problem with ALK, just gonna go with STi control arm rear bushings.
 

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GC8F2DD
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Discussion Starter #11
ampsarus said:
Well, the HD mount isn't really a performance upgrade. It is mostly to ensure that the OEM mount doesn't BREAK with the tremendously increased forces incurred with a fat roll bar.

The stock mount is designed to support the forces incurred with the wimpy stock rear bar. When you go to say, a 20-22-24 rear bar, the forces present are about 316%, 628%, 917% greater!

>>source: http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/index1.htm

I have heard from a couple people that the HD mount does quicken getting into the bar's rate, much like the HD links do by removing the flex and / or compliance. Can anybody here back that up?

BTW, your setup sounds like it is pretty close to perfect.

Pulling each corner of the suspension off and taking them appart and putting them back together is a pain in the ass, but it really isn't that complicated. each corner of the suspension is only held in by 2 big bolts at the bottom, 3 small bolts at the top, and the brake line clip which comes out with pliers. Taking the spring off of the strut is just 1 nut, and it zips off in 3 seconds with an electric impact wrench. With these cars, you don't even need a spring compressor. Close care must be taken to re-align the spring perches properly when you put the assy. back together, but really, it isn't hard to do! ;)

You can put Group-N top hats in with maybe $300 in tools, and then you have total control on fixing and tweaking your ride forever!
I know you can do it! :biggest: If "UCI" means UC Irvine, I'd be happy to help you out with it of you want to come up to the valley.

Changing clutches and flywheels, that is another story.....
So can you help me out :D
fellow anteater ;)
 

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GC8F2DD
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Ampsaurus,
btw do you have tools to these (except for Group N bushings, I think I'll let IVO handle this later)

I've just added more to my to do list:

STi Ftont Top Mounts
STi Pitch Mount
SS clutchlines
Cusco lower arm bar
STi four pot with porterfield
Redline on Transmission(50/50 superlight shockproof and MT-90)
Redline on rear differential (75W-90NS )
 

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I'm an ant-eating alumni too.

Here are some other goodies you can add to your list (with regard to suspension):

1. Alumnium control arms.
2. Cusco rear v-brace.
3. Cusco Adjustable camber plates (instead of the STI top mounts) I have them and have had no problems with them, except finding a good alignment shop that will align out of spec and not gouge me.
4. Aluminum front sway bar mounts.
 
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