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Discussion Starter #1
ok well ive been running my 2L na/turbo for a good few week now
not really had any problems

just upped boost a little were running around 3 ,now at 5 pulls well idles well

ive noticed now an then, it will give a puff smoke when letting of the throttle after boost
at idle no excess smoke,it will if i floor it an let of throttle

and i notice a faint oil burn smell if i give it a hard run
im thinking maybe oil seal in turbo being a second hand turbine
could be wrong ,or oil getting into cylinders ,but wouldnt that be noticeable
on plugs

just checked plugs and colours looking good or normal

should i expect a bit more smoke ? now its running turbo

any idea welcome thx
 

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if it was not a new motor, it could be blow by. meaning the pressure is blowing by the piston rings can causing oil to be pushed into the cylinder and burned. seen it on many different motors.
how many miles are on it? i personally never boost a NA motor if it has more than 70k on it due to this possible issue.
 

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00 BRP RS Coupe
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739 Posts
Re-doing or eliminating the PCV and/or breather hoses to and from the engine to allow the block to 'breath' more can help...
 

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2000 2.5RS/C BRP
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It's also possible that you're seeing some unburnt gas, it depends on how the BOV is plumbed, as well as tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thankyou for all the advice
well upon checking my plugs i gapped an had misfire since
so i made it worse i should left them alone,as they looked fine
before i fiddled lol ,anyway awaiting a new set,
and i can get back to it,
i also noticed after turning up boost a bit i threw ,cel for manifold pressure
and cel for o2 sensor
upon that ,realising id wired the clamp in wrong ,wiring being different here.
so ive figured that out,now wired in right ,if that dont work i will try a check valve .
also from what i researched i should of had a banjo restrictor on the turbo
to stop it pushing oil past the seals ,what with the engine pushing too much oil.

so well im just waiting on my new plugs ,and see what results i have with them
the turbo banjo restrictor ,and my clamp wired in correct lol,and go from there

on what you guyz said ,well im running around 70k miles it never been driven hard
and the reason i put a turbo on the n/a were to see if it could be done on uk 2.0l
and for the fun factor of ive never done it ,even at my ripe age lol
and well my young son loves the car
and in respect of parts,or even a new engine the cost is minimal
i can blow 3 or 4 engines compared to 1 stock wrx engine

and hydrochloric the unburnt gas etc would be what im thinking
what with it going into cel mode and clamp not in right ,could kick myself on that one lol
as for tuning well im running it stock ecu
anyway many thanks again ,i will post on how it looks when i sort these few things out
:) cheerz
 

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2000 2.5RS/C BRP
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All the people who've driven behind me complain about how smokey my car is, but that's what happens you run catless and the ECU pulls timing. :sunny:
 

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as for tuning well im running it stock ecu
anyway many thanks again ,i will post on how it looks when i sort these few things out
:) cheerz
that 1 statement could be 99% of your issues. w/o a tune you will not could blow the motor. you have to tune the car for boost pressures. w/o it you will blow the motor. the lean condition is due to lack of proper fueling under boost. yes the other stuff did not help, but please for the sake of the Subaru gods, TUNE the car :p
 

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Discussion Starter #8
that 1 statement could be 99% of your issues. w/o a tune you will not could blow the motor. you have to tune the car for boost pressures. w/o it you will blow the motor. the lean condition is due to lack of proper fueling under boost. yes the other stuff did not help, but please for the sake of the Subaru gods, TUNE the car :p

yea i understand that ,im running rrfpr and a walbro for fuel
i wouldnt think a lack of fuel ,maybe 2 much
i know not ideal either, but what with looking at people doing it here
i thought id give it ago.
What with not being able to read up on anyone doing the uk 2.0l model
i went of what a few others have done here .
and being why i opted for rrfpr etc to see if it can be done ,before i put hundreds
into engine management
and at this time in the year with crimbo an kids birthdays,it can wait while new year
the subaru gods will have to be on my side until lol
its doing no high miles or any hard driving at all
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All the people who've driven behind me complain about how smokey my car is, but that's what happens you run catless and the ECU pulls timing. :sunny:
im running a standard cat downpipe at moment
i were thinking of catless ,i may not now you point that out lol
i will have to wait until parts come in now to see if any improvement
i do think 2 much oil pressure getting to turbo

what do you do about it pulling timing on catless ? maybe usefull for future refrence :confused: :)
 

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2000 Impreza Outback Sport
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Gadge,
I am running a very similar setup on my 2.2L with MAP sensor. After I first did all of the modifications the car smoked very little. Over the past year a bit more smoke was noticed from the tail pipe, I assumed it was fuel and probably most of it was.

Last week I determined the turbine seal in the turbo completely failed. It now leaks so bad while on the throttle that a huge plume of smoke comes from the tail pipe. The smoke is heavy thick white and is not coolant. I have a rebuild kit on the way.

I had made my own banjo bolt for the oil feed. From what I found, the IHI turbo's require a banjo restrictor but Mitsubishi's turbo's do not. A restricted oil drain would cause excess oil pressure inside the turbo's center housing.

It is the same here with the 2.2L SOHC's they are everywhere. Very easy to find another engine. The bottom end in mine had about 120k miles and has about 15k boosted miles. I do not drive it easy...

If your ECU is like the one in my car, not much you can do for ignition timing.
 

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im running a standard cat downpipe at moment
i were thinking of catless ,i may not now you point that out lol
i will have to wait until parts come in now to see if any improvement
i do think 2 much oil pressure getting to turbo

what do you do about it pulling timing on catless ? maybe usefull for future refrence :confused: :)
It only blows smoke when you're on it and you're reaching the upper RPM ranges, because that's when the timing lets the most unburnt mixture through. The smoke is also not huge, or obvious. It's more like a black haze. You can see it starting around 10 seconds from my dyno pull:

The problem with my timing is that I'm a bad tuner. I have complete control over it, it just isn't tuned particularly well and the ECU has to compensate.

Gadge,
If your ECU is like the one in my car, not much you can do for ignition timing.
There's plenty! Both the EManage Blue and Ultimate will allow timing control, as well as the PP6 and an APEXi S-ITC. These are all piggybacks that will intercept the timing trigger signals and can modify the timing as you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It only blows smoke when you're on it and you're reaching the upper RPM ranges, because that's when the timing lets



There's plenty! Both the EManage Blue and Ultimate will allow timing control, as well as the PP6 and an APEXi S-ITC. These are all piggybacks that will intercept the timing trigger signals and can modify the timing as you want.
many thanks for that
and looking good ,im unsure if i will ever get to a dyno
but i would like some better management for fueling etc in the future
and well as for me reaching high rpm ranges
it will be rare my car see it
i got a ticket and 3 point for going 38mph in a 30 zone
not long after fitting the turbo lol ,it mainly daily low mile drive
and well a fun car
and the info its all great help thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Gadge,
I am running a very similar setup on my 2.2L with MAP sensor. After I first did all of the modifications the car smoked very little. Over the past year a bit more smoke was noticed from the tail pipe, I assumed it was fuel and probably most of it was.

Last week I determined the turbine seal in the turbo completely failed. It now leaks so bad while on the throttle that a huge plume of smoke comes from the tail pipe. The smoke is heavy thick white and is not coolant. I have a rebuild kit on the way.

I had made my own banjo bolt for the oil feed. From what I found, the IHI turbo's require a banjo restrictor but Mitsubishi's turbo's do not. A restricted oil drain would cause excess oil pressure inside the turbo's center housing.

thanks
yes i came up with the banjo restrictor after id posted my query
the turbo came with the restrictor but i put another in thinking it would give it better flow
not knowing the pressure being much higher than needed ,trust me lol

and then again its a used turbo but well no play an a good worker
i will be trying the new banjo an setup today
see what she is like
i do think my problem lay there now
and well i will rebuild the turbo soon anyway to be on the better side
cheerz for that
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well looking good
no more cel codes
clamp wired in correct and working ,im happy with being home made lol
no more o2 code needed grounding better, i have a 4 wire in 3 wire harness
restrictor banjo to turbo and seem to be working
and well no more puff the magic dragon
pulling well wot through gears bit of hesitation mid range in 3rd
but likes it wot
thanks for all the input and help :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok guyz :) well to save me putting up another thread
i just been out while dark here ,roads empty
gave her a good run through the gears as i got concerned about the hesitation
were bogging down like crap under load ,in 3rd 4th 5th at anywhere around 4000rpm
an i warmed her up ,and unpluged the o2 sensor
and it has just gone round the rev range in all gears like a trooper
and pulling boost well
but never threw a cel for o2 ? i expected ?
but i think i can be safe in assuming it needs a new one ?
or any reason why it bogging while connected an not when not
cheerz again guyz
 

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I don't know how the engine management was set up in the UK, but the old cars really didn't give much of a care about the O2 sensors. I know two people with OBD1 Legacies that don't even have rear O2s plugged in, and the ECU couldn't care less.

That said, the ECU may have gone into a "failsafe" mode with the front O2 unplugged, effectively using a set of values in it's memory and not modifying them as it would with the O2, hence why it runs better.
 

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were bogging down like crap under load ,in 3rd 4th 5th at anywhere around 4000rpm
Sounds like a common knock sensor P0325 fail-safe. A bogging issue could lead you a few places. Disconnecting the front o2 sensor, should set a code. Disconnecting rear o2 sensors may or may not set a code on older OBD and OBDII vehicles. They are used as a catalyst monitor and nothing else.

If you were able to disconnect the front o2 and run the car well, the ECU would have stayed open loop giving you the full can of beans.

As for myself, I removed the turbo from my car, pulled it apart and replaced the guts. Seems to have taken care of my oil burning problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't know how the engine management was set up in the UK, but the old cars really didn't give much of a care about the O2 sensors. I know two people with OBD1 Legacies that don't even have rear O2s plugged in, and the ECU couldn't care less.

That said, the ECU may have gone into a "failsafe" mode with the front O2 unplugged, effectively using a set of values in it's memory and not modifying them as it would with the O2, hence why it runs better.
no the motor hasnt had a rear o2 since i bought it
its beat me again lol ,subaru solve one issue onto the next lol
few more checks if nothing else keeps me occupied :) thx
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds like a common knock sensor P0325 fail-safe. A bogging issue could lead you a few places. Disconnecting the front o2 sensor, should set a code. Disconnecting rear o2 sensors may or may not set a code on older OBD and OBDII vehicles. They are used as a catalyst monitor and nothing else.

If you were able to disconnect the front o2 and run the car well, the ECU would have stayed open loop giving you the full can of beans.

As for myself, I removed the turbo from my car, pulled it apart and replaced the guts. Seems to have taken care of my oil burning problem.

glad to hear about your turbo oil prob
the banjo restrictor seems to have cured mine for now ,but well i will rebuild
in new year
i will give o2 a few test today an i were thinking maybe a vac leak
if now running full beans lol
will be full rich maybe compensating a vac leak ?
or well a dead o2 ive not seen any knock or code for that :confused: :rolleyes:
 

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2000 Impreza Outback Sport
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Having excess fuel burn through the exhaust will at times appear to be oil burning. Setups using RRFPR's and FMU's do tend to run rich.

A vacuum leak would give you a lean condition and a bit higher idle. If you didn't have problems like you mentioned before bolting on the parts, then look at your install. Be absolutely sure the voltage clamp is being used correctly. Do you have a gauge to read A/F ratio or vacuum? You have scanned for codes?
 
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