Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

121 - 140 of 211 Posts

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #121
Got the air assist hooked up. Couldn't use the factory hard lines as my turbo inlet is in the way. Some 5/16th vacuum line and a plastic T did the trick! Funny thing is that I didn't really notice a difference in the trims. Trims were positive all around so I decided to play with the fuel pressure while I had some down time at work. Idle trims were 6-7, 2500-3000rpm trims were around 8-12. With the motor warmed up I slowly turned the pressure up and set the short trim to -6 to -7. My drive home the trims were all 0-5, with a few outliers that made it jump +10. I've found the car doesn't spend too much time in those areas, so they're harder to work out.

In ecuexplorer there is a third A/F Learning line, but it always displays 0. With the SSM3 A/F Learning #3 shows +5%. My rear O2 is dead dead. 0 volts coming out of its heater still works! New front and rear sensors should be here Tuesday. I'm hoping the dead rear O2 is what's making A/F Learning #3 do what it's doing. After the new sensors are installed and I'm still in proper trim percentages, the 650's will go back in. Thinking back on it, tuning my FPR by fuel trims should have been one of the first things I did to the car instead of relying on what's in the FSM.

I'm had it mulling around in my head, since I have the car basically back to factory trim (minus the turbo and the deleted stock fpr) I should unplug the emanage and see if, even though all maps are zero'd, it is affecting the trims.
 

·
Premium Member
01 STM RS Sedan & MORE!
Joined
·
315 Posts
FYI I was testing all kinds of wiring issues related to TCM code 45 and it ended up being an aftermarket MAP sensor that prevented the connector from seating fully.

I swapped with a factory sensor, and the problem went away
 

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
Hmmm.. I want to delete the air assist on my toy. Seems like a project so far, have not found a good write up without conflicting info.
You can't fully delete it but you can cap it off. As long as the solenoid is still there it will be happy.

FYI I was testing all kinds of wiring issues related to TCM code 45 and it ended up being an aftermarket MAP sensor that prevented the connector from seating fully.

I swapped with a factory sensor, and the problem went away
Interesting! I'll have to pull mine out and see if I have a similar story.
 

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
This is true! I'd love to but the transmission is a bit of a hinderance. Installed the new rear O2 sensor, with no change. Went through the diagnostics procedure for P0136 in the service manual. Calls for less than 3 ohms resistance between ECM and O2 harness connector. I read 0.6 ohms. Then calls for .2V with key on at the O2 harness connector and I've got a big ole ZERO. I'll have the new front O2 sensor installed soon and see if that makes a difference.

I absolutely despise electrical problems. Time to set the car on fire!
 

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
This is true! I'd love to but the transmission is a bit of a hinderance. Installed the new rear O2 sensor, with no change. Went through the diagnostics procedure for P0136 in the service manual. Calls for less than 3 ohms resistance between ECM and O2 harness connector. I read 0.6 ohms. Then calls for .2V with key on at the O2 harness connector and I've got a big ole ZERO. I'll have the new front O2 sensor installed soon and see if that makes a difference.

I absolutely despise electrical problems. Time to set the car on fire!
So I had found in the FSM where the .2V was supposed to come from out of the ECM, and there was no wire there... wtf? Took a little bit of digging, but I found the FSM correction page where they had mislabeled the connectors. :projectsti.com:

Wanted to feel some boost as I hadn't really put my foot in to the throttle with the stock injectors in. With the wastegate disconnected it still builds 5-6 psi in the upper rpms. I may want to just get a bellmouth downpipe instead of one with a divorced waste gate, it just can't seem to flow enough to keep the boost at bay. But even hitting 100% duty cycle the emanage was pulling fuel to meet my requested 12.5-12.1 AFR.

Had meant to hit post earlier... whoops...

Got the new front sensor's wiring extended and installed. Got to probing wires to diagnose my P0136 code and pretty sure we've deduced a bad ECM. No voltage coming out of the ECM for the rear O2. Perfect opportunity to explore a WRX ecu swap this summer.
 

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
It's not perfect, but it's not white! Finally back to two colors instead of three. Shit picture but I don't get many picture moments with it any more. Starting to dislike the attention the big black wing attracts, I'm just tryna get to work people...


I was able to order an ECM through car-part.com. $170 fee to let me know my wiring was fscked and not the ECM. whoops! Yesterday I took advantage of a day off to use a lift at work and get to probing. Found both O2's sensors get their power feed off the same pin on the main relay, but go to different pins on the O2 harness cord. Front O2 goes direct to a pin on O2 harness, rear O2 has a T that junctions to the ECM. My break is between the main relay and the ECM. Of course that wire is behind the dash and crash beam. Likely a summer project when the bike is my daily.

I did make some "go fast" progress. The car is running a little rich and fuel mileage isn't as effected as I originally thought by the CEL, thinking my extra low mpg tanks were just from a particular gas station that I've been now avoiding. I had installed cleaned/tested 280cc injectors trying to figure out this O2 debacle I've been going through and found that fuel trims were still all over the place, just like with the bigger ones. Way back when I had originally installed my fuel pressure regulator I had set it to the middle of the FSM spec and forgot about it. Mistake. I had the factory injectors installed so the only fueling adjustment I could make was physical. Was able to get the LT trims in spec and car feels like it had good power even not getting in to boost. Reinstalled the 650cc injectors yesterday, plugged in the "known" numbers and it seems good!

Compression tested it yesterday as well, glad to say the motor is still plenty healthy. 120/125 on one side, 135 on the other side. The lower side is the one that I had dicked the timing up on during assembly. One more week and this motor will have three months on it. Funny to measure by time than miles, lmao! I did send my break in oil to blackstone for analysis. Pretty cool! I didn't send the first out in time for them to send me new test supplies for the second change. But I'll probably make it a regular thing
 

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
Here's the analysis if any one wants to check it out. This was this motors first oil change, ~1500 miles on Chevron conventional 5w30. I didn't get a sample of the second change but the third one is due in a few hundred miles and I'll be sure to get a sample for Blackstone. Getting tired of its look, and the unwanted attention i get from boy racers, so I took the mudflaps and spats off. Need to make a craigslist post and see if anyone local has a trunk they'll trade me, as the wing is basically welded to this trunk. Kind of want to give the wingless look a try but don't want to bother with the third brake light.

  1. If trims are roughly the same, but positive, then you need to lower your injector scaling number.
  2. If both trims are roughly the same, but negative, then you need to raise your injector scaling number.
  3. If idle trim is more positive than cruise trim, then you need to increase the latency value.
  4. If the idle trim is less positive than the cruise trim, you need to decrease the latency value.
When increasing and decreasing latency based on these tuning tips I interpreted it as the gap between old/new in the emanage needed to get closer or farther apart. But, since I have information from DW about latency on my big injectors then MAYBE I just need to increase/decrease the old injector latency. As no one seems to truly know what the air assist injectors are. The one post that I've found with latency information on the 280's says the dead time is .4ms but that's wrong. I was getting 10 at idle and -10 at cruise. I believe TerryJr was quite successful with .7ms, when I've tried this idle trim usually skyrockets to 20-35 after an ECM reset so I don't think I ever actually ran it. Runs much gooder after actually taking it out and driving. I'll check the trims in a week and see where it stands for adjustment.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
I tell people I drive an automatic on purpose, as I do have issues with my left hip, but the transmission is holding the car back, and I actually think it's starting to fail. Chassis has a quarter million miles on it. I'd love to find a 4.44 set! I absolutely adore the rocket ship nature of the automatic, and I'm more of a red light racer than a big runner.

I ran against a newer Aston Martin, and it couldn't get by me (I only build 9psi!), but the motor was hurt afterwards unfortunately. Compression is still in spec, but #4 is ~10
lower. It's always number 4! But aside from that the car has more power, harder pull, and the most normal consistent fuel trims than it ever has.

Regarding stock injector lag/latency time; the post I found that said they pulled info from the ECM says .4ms. TerryJR and pretty much every other person that has used an emanage ultimate says .7ms. I am using .58ms right now and my trims are -5-0.
 

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
Was only a matter of time! Heard the extra long crank Thursday morning, had some dead time near the end of the day at work so took a coworker for a ride in it to get it warmed up. Impressed at the quickness for it being an automatic, love that 4.44FD, also said all the noises the car makes are perfect and not too overly loud. Honestly it's the noises that keep me throwing pistons at it :blol: Showed 135psi on 1-3, 58 on 4. three cylinder turbos are still pretty quick! I'll use my next 5 day break to pull the motor and replace that piston. Piston has a warranty so it's going to cost me a few gaskets and some time. Also bought a premade AN hose for my turbo drain. The two 90* rubber elbows I've been using is less than ideal and has always seeped. Think I also need to do something different with my PCV but I'll figure that out when I pull the motor.

Got another oil analysis after I learned of the low compression, I'm surprised there wasn't much to show for that. I'll send the current oil as well, be interesting to see if it will show any thing for combustion gases.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
'01 RS+t STM
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #139
I got to talking about it with one of the senior techs and he asked me how my PCV was set up, which is funny because I mentioned in a previous post before talking to him that I wanted to do something different with it. The only change I've made to the PCV system from how it's set up N/A is removing the valve cover hoses and replacing them with breather filters. It is set up with a hose off the block, to a Y, one leg goes to the throttle body pcv valve, and the other leg goes to the the intake before the turbo.

Senior tech told me I should just skip the leg going to the throttle body pcv valve and to block it off and only run the hose from the block to the pre-turbo intake port. He said the pcv valve is likely allowing boost pressure to get in to the block.

So theory right now is I've been breaking ring lands due to boost pressure being on both sides of the piston. We shall see how this next one holds up! They're breaking less and less dramatically each time, so I guess that says something right... right??
 

·
Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
464 Posts
You're MAP right? I'd just put one of those tiny cone filters on the PCV VALVE in the intake, and then run the hose like the tech said. I'm guessing your car will idle funny if it can't pull air in from the PCV valve, I know mine did.

I've got a 3 port catch can, one port has the valve cover breathers T'd together on it, another has the PCV from block, and the third goes to the intake pre turbo. Works like a charm.
 
121 - 140 of 211 Posts
Top