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2005 Impreza 2.5RS
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I am new to community. Need your experience guys.

I bought my first car, used 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS (stock). I already changed transmission and rear differential oil, which gave me much much better drive. I am also going to flush engine and do first oil/oil filter change tomorrow [first time since I bought it (oil change is due after 3K km)]. Engine seems tuned. And oil still looks great, should I change it anyway? My question is what is best synthetic oil to use and is there any additives I should use? Guy before me was using Castrol syntec.

I also used Iso-Heet to remove water from fuel line - great boost in performance, and Lucas Oil Engine cleaner - not much difference noticed. Q is it okay to use these products regularly? Or just use them once every 3 months or so?..

I also thinking of installing short ram intake - which would you recommend? Or should I just install K&N air filter on stock air intake?

Sway bar?

Struts bar?

And maybe 17"-18" tires.

I have changed front breaks and rotors, rear were recently installed.

Body, inside where the driver seat fixed to the floor I have quite a bit of rust now (this is new we had few snow storms, and I was being not accurate got lots of snow on my front driver seat/area a couple of times >.<) Should I scrape that rust and apply something? Or just leave it?

Any suggestions, recommendations guys.

Thanks!
 

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'04 PSM WRX Premium
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Skip the engine 'flush' and just do a standard oil change. Always change the oil when you get a new car.... $25 or so and you know it's changed. Who knows when it was last changed. Stick to conventional or a Rotella T5, which is a conventional/synthetic blend. Synthetic is pricey and tends to leak... it cleans out all the gunk holding your oil in... haha. For real.. you'll likely see some leaks develop after using synthetic over 6 months or so.

Skip the intake.. they don't do anything unless tuned for and you have other stuff done.

Sway bar... yep... go for the rear to start. 20-22mm seems about right for stock. You may want to get springs and struts right after.

Strut bars are ok... they don't do much on a GD, and all the cheap ones I've test on eBay are just cheap. The GC ones actually worked. GD ones are junk.

17" wheels/tires are a good upgrade. Skip the 18"... too big.

For the rust... always fix it if you can. Sounds like it's not on the body. They have different rust penetrators at Walmart... get one and apply it. Multiple times. Then cover up with some black paint. I'm assuming this is part of the body under the carpet? If it's just the seat rail, I think we all have that. I scraped mine off and just put black paint on it... came back in a year.
 

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2005 Impreza 2.5RS
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for advises bro.

**Strut bars are ok... they don't do much on a GD, and all the cheap ones I've test on eBay are just cheap. The GC ones actually worked. GD ones are junk.

What is GD? and what is GC?

About the rust - it is just on rail, but looks so sloppy I want to get rid of it.
 

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2005 Impreza 2.5RS
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Discussion Starter #4
And why skip engine flush? It should clean all the junk if any from the bottom of it.
 

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Thanks for advises bro.

**Strut bars are ok... they don't do much on a GD, and all the cheap ones I've test on eBay are just cheap. The GC ones actually worked. GD ones are junk.

What is GD? and what is GC?

About the rust - it is just on rail, but looks so sloppy I want to get rid of it.
GD is your chassis code, based on production year

older Impreza (up to 2001 in US) are called GC. 2002-2007 are called GD
 

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And why skip engine flush? It should clean all the junk if any from the bottom of it.

because if oil changes were done as scheduled and a good oil was used, there will be no "junk". Use it if you like, but don't expect much, if anything in return as far as value.

the most important thing with any used car, is documentation...you cant just take an owners word for maintenance work done unless you know the owner personally (family, etc). If you can't prove it via a receipt, assume you have to do it.
 

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2001 Impreza 2.5RS Sedan
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And why skip engine flush? It should clean all the junk if any from the bottom of it.
I wouldn't do it, if there is "junk" in the bottom, trying to flush it may put it into circulation and there are other parts in your engine that might take offence. I've seen a fair share of engines and transmissions crap out after a "flush" as it spread the junk up to other parts...
 

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2005 Impreza 2.5RS
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
What you guys think about "5 minutes engine flush"? Say like AMSoil Engine and transmission flush?

Also I used Lucac Oil injector cleaner twice with 1/2 tank interval (full tank - treatment, run next tank halfway through before refilling again with lucas oil engine cleaner), only after to find videos online saying not to use that cleaner as it develops bubbles in the engine. Now I am kind of concerned >.< Would changing oil will help?

Also I noticed that after driving for 50K more engine starts to run like new, absolutly no vibration compared to when engine runs cold, or even after a few minutes warm up.
 

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Just change the oil, used a good filter, a good oil and be done with it. On a well maintained car you're chasing a problem that doesn't exist, and maybe causing a new one


you do not need additives, or anything like that at all. If the car has run well on Castrol syntec, keep using it with a good filter and save the money you're wasting on all these cleaners/tune ups in a bottle
 

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Discussion Starter #10
because if oil changes were done as scheduled and a good oil was used, there will be no "junk". Use it if you like, but don't expect much, if anything in return as far as value.

the most important thing with any used car, is documentation...you cant just take an owners word for maintenance work done unless you know the owner personally (family, etc). If you can't prove it via a receipt, assume you have to do it.

Thanks man, good point. Car came with all service docs (looks like they did one engine flush already before 3 years ago).
 

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2000 Ver 6 STI - 1996 Gravel Express
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you do not need additives, or anything like that at all. If the car has run well on Castrol syntec, keep using it with a good filter and save the money you're wasting on all these cleaners/tune ups in a bottle
+1

I'm thinking someone's reading into the stupid junk out there. Bet he wants to use Octane booster while he's at it too
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Crotch you make me sound like a ricer hehe. My car is for transportation only, but I do want to keep good maintenance. The only reason I was asking about additives its cos after using Iso Heet my engine runs so much smoother that I thought maybe there is something else I need to look at to make it better. I am not looking into crazy modding, just want great maintenance tips (and maybe basic upgrades for better handling ;)).

So I listened to you guys, just changed oil - switched to Amsoil though. And what a huge difference. Amazing!
 

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all Iso Heet does is remove water from the fuel tank, all you need for proof is it's ingredients (iso alcohol). If the car was driven even periodically prior to your ownership, it is highly unlikely there was any water in the tank. If your Canadian gas has Ethanol in it, it serves a very similar function, and is good to temps down around -30F or so. If you fill up at a major station that has traffic, and your gas cap closes securely, there is very little change it has moisture in it because its a busy station. If you live out in the middle of nowhere, and the gas station only gets a delivery every month or 2, then your chances are higher of moisture.

Instead of wasting all your money on one additive after another, start with the basic maintenance (fresh plugs, fuel filter, air filter, maybe wires if you don't know when they were last done). One oil change is not going to magically change how an engine runs unless it was low on oil to begin with. Things don't work that way

No additive, none of them, work in a vacuum. Fuel interacts with nearly everything else in the engine, and prolonged use of an additive will show it's ugly head elsewhere at some point...in your case, deposits on the plugs (common, look like barnacles), injector seals starting to tear (alcohol dries things afterall).

IMHO, you're chasing a problem that doesn't exist, and wasting money in the process
 
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