After scouring the the local parts stores for a dipstick and tube the dealership actually had one in stock and it was the same price as rock auto shipped so my cheap-ass was sold. That was the last thing I needed to complete engine and assembly and that I just did.
I installed the heads with a bit of copper spray on the gaskets because I don't like to live THAT dangerously. Chased out the the deck holes and ran in the factory bolts again. Everything torqued fine, no sudden looseness from a TTY bolt that went a bit far. Fingers and toes crossed it will suck down 10 pounds like a fish in a drought.
Installing the pan meant cleaning it which meant a trip to the bathtub where a leak down test ensued. Low and behold that thing leaked like a siv. There were a few pinholes from some obviously dirty welds. A bit of wire brushing and a few beads and the pan could now survive the gulf coast. It was a bit humbling to have my first parts "failure" before even starting the car but i would rather find out now than later. Before final install I noted the new height of the pick up in relation to the windage tray and the relation between the dip stick and pick up. I should be very close to stock capacity if my math proves right.
I read many a horror story regarding LS balancers and the various woes of removal and installation. Coming off was a breeze a puller and going on was just as easy thanks to a torch. I heated the hub for about 30 seconds, greased the seal and it slid on with an audible thunk. That's a win in my book.
The truck intake has a few ports that I won't be incorpating that needed to be plugged. The first to go was I think might be an EGR return of some sort. Either way it's very closely sized to a GM IAT (Thanks Denmah for the wiki) at .524" and the port in the intake being .489". A little bit of carbide action (I just bought the Eastwood set, very pleased) and it slides right in.
A dab of permatex cold weld, none of that plebian JB Weld.
And it slides right in, fully exposed to the incoming airstream.
The next one on the hit list was the port next to the throttle body. Mine is built into the throttle body itself so I don't see the need for two. I tapped this one for a set screw, I didn't have any pipe plugs on hand so it went in with cold weld as well. I believe it was a 5/16" plug for those curious.
The last port was the MAP sensor. I have seen various ways of securing the sensor under boost pressure. The most popular was using a auxiliary bracket between the cover posts. I felt that left some room to leak so I tapped it for a barb. A 1/4 NPT tap goes right in without further enlargement of the hole.
Planning ahead I knew I needed a brake light switch so I snagged a momentary switch from the hardware store and found a place on the pedal box it can be mounted. I knocked out this simple bracket in fusion to house the switch.
And cut it out of some aluminum. I'll get it mounted this weekend to show you guys.
I also decided on a clutch. I'm going with a Monster level 3 kit I believe. It's the 700/700 capable, AP slave, and billet flywheel. I'm going to go with the heavier one as that is what the monster rep recommended as well as my own theories.
Well guys, 8 long years and it is time for me to part ways with the car. I'm dealing with some health issues that the car is getting in the way of. I listed the car for sale as a whole for $10,000, every single thing I have for it will come with it. This will likely not happen so I am willing to part it out. I outlined the bigger stuff below, I am looking for quick sales not to recoup every penny.
- 03 5.3L Lm7 from an Avalanche
•SBE with rings gapped for boost
•Elgin 1840 (SS2) cam and Pac 1218 valve springs
•All new gaskets from the pan to the TB with MLS headgaskets.
•Truck intake with GM IAT installed and rear MAP port tapped
•EFI Source goldbox ECU and pnp 24x LS harness
-98 Trans Am T56 6 speed transmission
•This is the long first gear T56 which I find to be more desirable. It's completely stock, and was pulled from a running/driving car that went with a TH400. Has clean fluid, and no metal/particulates on the drain either.
-95 Mustang GT 8.8 Rear Axle
•This came out of a car that ran and drove as well. Factory LSD with an extra friction stuck in and the wave spring tweaked a bit so it locks up pretty peachy.
•Explorer pinion flange to accomadate bigger u-joints
-3.5 Inch aluminum driveshaft made by Midwest driveline. Sonnax billet front yoke, billet 1350 U-joints, billet Explorer pinion flange. It's rated at 1500/1500 whp/wtq, their parting words were "good luck affording a trans to twist this."
•ISC N1 coils, STI lower mounts
•Fully adjustable triangulated rear 4 link with heims
•06-07 Spec C LCAs
•Solid AMS sway bar links
-Full fuel system
•13 gallon cell with alchohol/race fuel safe foam, internally baffled, AN feed and Return
•Dual external AEM 380s with Y blocks
•Full AN fittings front to back
•Aeromotive return style regulator
•Bride reps, I'm keeping the Kirkeys
•Nardi Twinline wheel (leather)
•SouthwestSpeed pedal box, 3 masters sized according to the mustang/camaro slaves.
•Genuine JDM headlights/corners
• It needs paint and bodywork. The quarters are tender, strut towers are clean, the 1st foot of the rockers from the rear wheel are gone but the rest is all there. All this stuff is cheap on subiesavers. It needs paint obviously as well, the ride home from it's last home really did a number on the paint but this isn't a car you buy if your biggest concern is the paint.
Unfortunately as it goes, medical bills come along with the issues. It's something I've been dealing with since I left school, my insurance finally denied my claim due to out of state discrepancies. Rather than borrowing money I'll sell off my car and or parts.
^OR he could start playing the lotto. win. pay off his med bills, or don't cause who cares at that point...buy the hospital, fuck it. but then i suppose he wouldn't need to finish it becuase fuck it.."i'ma but a pagani huayra". and then leave us all behind anyways.
No bites on the car. Some wannabe soundcloud rapper wants the shell but that's about as likely as his clothing line dropping so if you want a shell or roller come get it.
All prices listed are OBO. All of the items are eligible for pickup in Littleton, NH. I will ship items that are reasonable. The prices listed do not include shipping. Any of the shipped items can paid via Paypal, I do not accept any other non-cash currency unless it is a bankers check or direct wire transfer.
I am looking to get rid my extra wheels. I bought these to roll my car on and are just taking up room at this point. Up for sale are six Motegi Touges. These wheels are discontinued and were made by Motegi as a "purpose built drift wheel engineered to withstand the rigors of a track". They have indeed been used on the track and the price reflects. The sizes are as follows:
2x 18x9 +12 Pretty hard/weather cracked but hold air
2x 18x10 +20 Absolutely spanked 245/40s that hold air long enough to roll the car on
2x 19x10 +20 Zero mile 245/35 Toyo proxes. They have been stored inside so they aren't hard or cracked.
All six are 5x4.5/114.3, they all have pitted chrome on the lips, two have Motegi center caps, two have Zender center caps, and one the 19s has lip rash
And the aforementioned part out list
• VSR S480, 88x96 billet wheel, 1.32 AR T6 flange
o BNIB Zero miles. Just used for mockup. Comes with a LJMS -12AN drain flange $800
• 2x VSR 44MM Wastegates
o Black. All you need are the two lower weld-on v-band flanges. BNIB with all fittings and springs. $100
• 2x VSR 50MM Blow off valves
o Black. All you need are the two lower weld-on v-band flanges. BNIB with all fittings and springs. $100
• CX Racing scavenge pump
o Self priming, gear style pump so no need for a tank. Fittings included, AN and barb. Brand new, only tested for functionality. Black. $100
• Integra/Civic half radiator 19”x16”x3” with -20AN inlet/outlets
o Stock location ports so if you wanted to put this back in a Civic you could. Comes with a 1700CFM single fan and shroud. $130
• 2x AEM External 380s: AVM-50-1005
o -10ORB inlets, -6 ORB outlets. $200 for just the pumps and $300 for the pumps, twin mounts, y blocks, and associated fittings
• Custom Fuel cell
o 16x16x10 with 1 gallon sump. Roughly 13 gallons, internally baffled and alcohol/racefuel safe foam, Moroso O-ring cap, barb vent with rollover check valve, -10 feed -8 return. $200
• Magnafuel Inline filter: MRF-MP-7008
o 25 micron, removable stainless mesh filter that can be washed/replaced. $70
• Magnafuel Inline filter: MRF-MP-7009
o 74 micron, removable stainless mesh filter that can be washed/replaced . $70
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator : AEI-13305 $175
o BNIB, ORB fittings, Aftermarket Fuel pressure transducer (I have the voltage/resistance information so it can be scaled properly.)
• 80LB Siemens Deka Injectors $200
o BNIB, came from EFI source they aren’t copies
• EFI Source Goldbox ECU and PnP 24x LS harness. $1100
o BNIB, I added a few of the ins/outs already
• LS1 Style 3 bar MAP sensor. $30
• AEM 30-0300 X series Wideband. $160
• Bride VIOS reps $200
o Brandy new, used them for mockup
• 2003 5.3L LM7 with 110k miles. $1000
o pulled from a running Avalanche, stock bottom end with a shaved pan
o Fresh OEM gaskets
o Elgin-1840 Camshaft .585/.585 228/230
o PAC 1218 beehive springs .600 lift capable
o GM IAT in the PCV port, MAP port tapped to -1/4 NPT
o Aftermarket linear oil pressure transducer. I have the voltage/resistance information so it can be scaled properly.
o Rings gapped for boost, .026” tops, .028” bottoms
• 1998 Trans Am T56 6 speed transmission. Pending Sale
o Completely stock as far as I was told, shifts through all the gears on the bench, has clean fluid, nothing on the drain
• 1995 Ford Mustang GT 8.8 Rear end. $300
o 3.08 Rear gear, factory LSD, complete with disc brakes and lines, explorer pinion flange
• 06-07 STI Spec C Rear hubs/knuckles. $100
o Importer destroyed a few of the studs and wheel bearings would help too
• 06-07 STI Spec C Front hubs/knuckles. $200
o Converted to heims w/lowered steering pick up points to aid in bumpsteer correction. Comes with heims, and tie rods.
• 06-07 STI Spec C Front lower control arms. $250
o AMS solid sway bar endlinks included
• ISC N1 Coilovers. $400
o 93-01 Impreza fitment
o Come with both 5x100 and 5x114 front lower mounts
o 6k/8k springs
o 8K miles no seized collars
• 2015 STI Steering rack 50k miles. $150.
o Needs a shaft seal, it’s a $30 part, I didn’t get around to changing it as it did not fit with my turbo manifolds. These are over $700 new.
• 98-01 Impreza JDM crystal clear headlights. $200
o Glass housings, no cracks.
o One of the four grille tabs is broken