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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
UPDATE 5/19/14
The initial cause of my issue was the catalytic converter(s) being clogged!
At least now the head gaskets, timing belt and clutch are all done and out of the way!
It feels great to drive my Impreza once again!


OP:

I bought a 2000 RS early last month with 155k miles...everything worked as it should and I put 1500 miles on it. I did an oil change, tire rotation, fuel filter change, PCV valve, cleaned the IACV, replaced valve cover gaskets/grommets/tube seals, spark plugs & o2 sensor.

The last 500 miles I've driven it seems it has lost power...shortly after above said work, the car would not build revs after 3000-3500 RPM...I could have it floored in 1st/2nd/3rd/4th and the rev's will just stop climbing around 3k, as if it had a rev limit on it.

The only code I have and have had was P1507 (IACV valve) which came on 200 miles after I bought the car. I left the battery disconnected overnight to reset the ECU, took it around the block and it wouldn't build revs over 2500 RPM now...I pulled into a fuel station and filled up 10 gal, and limped it home where it has been parked for almost a week. I feel like I can hear hissing/vacuum leak around cyl 1/3 intake runner.

I rented an 'OEM' brand compression gauge from AZ and performed a compression test with all spark plugs removed, ignition coil disconnected, cyl 1 & cyl 3 fuel injectors disconnected, cyl 2 & 4 fuel injectors still connected (hard to reach), but cam position sensor disconnected (this will disable all fueling?) throttle body wide open and 7 compression cycles on each tested cylinder.

The results were as follows:
cyl # 1 = 155 psi
cyl # 3 = 160 psi
cyl # 2 = 122 psi
cyl # 4 = 110 psi :facepalm:

Afterwards, I took the driver side cam gear cover off. There was a bunch of gunky oil residue on the backside of the cover. (cam seal?)



UPDATE 3/4/2014
I removed the engine and put it on a stand. Cross member will have to be cleaned up.
It looks like the crank and both cam seals have been leaking for a while.
There is build up of grease on the belt and cam gears.
The rear main seal doesn't appear to leak, but the crankcase access covers do. I'll replace both anyway.
I figured I should put in a new clutch and resurface the flywheel/pressure plate. Opinions?
With 157k miles on it, do you think I should just do a full rebuild with bearings and rings? I do plan on keeping the car a long time and remaining N/A for awhile.

















 

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2003 BRP 2.5 RS, 2005 Camo 20K
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82 Posts
deff looks like a cam seal gave way. 2 & 4 low compression: any valve damage? did the car overheat? I only ask because when my RS gave 110 and 120 psi (1/2 resp) it was due to coolant getting into exhaust and pitting the valves. bank 2 low compression, id double check timing on driver side. GL bud!
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The car never overheated, i took the cap off the radiator and it is completely full to the top cold.
 

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2003 BRP 2.5 RS, 2005 Camo 20K
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82 Posts
The car never overheated, i took the cap off the radiator and it is completely full to the top cold.
never overheated by previous owner? i would assume youd have a P0420 by now if coolant got in cats as coolant kills them. I say do a leakdown to see if there are any chamber leaks, and if so, where. what plug wires are you using? hopefully not that crap oreilly stuff. plug wires lasted me 500 miles before causing misfires
 

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2000 Impreza 2.5RS
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957 Posts
I have low compression as well (haven't gotten it checked yet) - planning to rebuild it this coming spring/summer. I haven't had issues like you are having though. My motor is eating coolant/oil though - not as bad as it used to but I did have a radiator leak that I addressed. Running on 234k now and I'm starting to feel it, but does run extremely well with where it is. My shop mechanic and I are both in shock lol.

I'd do a rebuild, but is that your "at the moment" best option? As long as it doesn't financially punch you in the throat, I'd say you'd be okay.
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Leakdown test reveals ~40% on cylinder #2 and ~60% on cylinder #4, any additional pressure added results in passing TDC. Base pressure on cylinder #1 and #3 results in passing TDC, so I can confirm bank 1 is fairly more sealed than bank 2 is.
I can hear it coming from the exhaust valves and very slightly from the intake as well on #2/4.
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Who can vouch for a good machine shop around IL?
I'll need deck work on the block and resurfacing of both cylinder heads for head gasket longevity. With the engine out, and already at a machine shop...should I just get the entire short block rebuilt? With 150k+ unknown miles, I feel as if the bottom end could have a problem at anytime however there is still a lot of crosshatching left in all the cylinders. I do plan on keeping the car N/A for quite some time. Opinions, thoughts, comments?
 

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04 STI, '11 R6 Race
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5,733 Posts
Can't quite tell from your pictures but is there much scoring on the cylinder walls? if you can feel anything or see pretty significant scoring I would consider taking a look at the block

If you are concerned about the bottom end it would be a good idea to do a bit of work and get new bearings/piston rings etc. Honing/some cleaning maybe a crank polish and line bore isn't terrible cost wise
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Someone definitely changed just the timing belt without the idler(s)/tensioner.
The bottom smooth idler on the passenger side has a lip on the back indicating it's a factory idler. All 3 of them sound like roller skate wheels.
I believe that idler part number was revised to be identical to the smooth idler above it. (double bearing - no lip)

I'm going with a Gates timing belt kit which includes new tensioner and all idlers. (without water pump)
OEM water pump/gasket (I read some had issues with the Gates pump not seating correctly)
Victor Reinz(OEM) 04-06 STI head gaskets (I read these MLS head gaskets are the way to go, and they fit the EJ251 perfectly.)

I'm trying to find an engine gasket kit (preferably Fel-Pro) that comes without head gaskets.

The engine has definitely been removed before by a previous owner.
It's evident the flywheel was resurfaced/clutch replaced...just don't know when.
The engine-trans bolt labeled "G" was MIA.

 

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Where did you get all your parts for the rebuild? Think Im going to have to do the same here within a few weeks. 212k on her. Lost a shitload of power and started pinging :(
 

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2000 RS Coupe Silverthorn 5spd
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565 Posts
Get the Z1 full headgasket kit. I bought that and the timing belt kit and had zero problems with anything from the kit. Infact the timing pulleys are now on their second motor since the original spun a rod bearing....
 

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All new OEM headgaskets are multilayer there is absolutely no reason to spend the extra for the sti gaskets and losing the bit of compression
you gain compression with the STi gaskets, but you're right, completely not worth the cash IMHO. Not that they are expensive (we charge a little more to sub out the OE gasket in our headgasket master kit for the STi one), but even if this were my own engine, I wouldn't bother either

newer gaskets are not MLS but even still, there is no real need for an MLS gasket on a non turbo engine. It's down primarily to using bolts that have not stretched (or new ones), and the right torquing sequence with a good torque wrench in a stable environment
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I put a part list together...I've done my best to track every aftermarket part that links to the same one Subaru sells/uses, there are still some loose ends.

FLUIDS
coolant (subaru blue or conventional green?)


MOD PARTS
Timing belt guide - Tomei # TOM 191263 = $45.00 (RallySport Direct)


REPLACEMENT PARTS
Alt/PS belt - GATES #K050345RB = $28.79 (RockAuto)
AC belt - GATES #K040353RB = $28.79 (RockAuto)
Timing belt kit w/o water pump - GATES #TCK304 = $118.79 (RockAuto)
Water pump w/ metal gasket - AISIN #WPF002 AKA Subaru #21111AA007 = $38.79 (RockAuto)
Thermostat - Subaru #21200AA072 = $21.95 (Rallysport Direct)
Clutch kit = clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing - EXEDY #EXE KSB04 = $180.64 (RallySport Direct)


GASKETS/SEALS

exhaust header gaskets - VICTOR REINZ #MS12392 AKA Subaru #14038AA000 = $7.74 (RockAuto)
oil pan gasket - FEL-PRO #OS30656C = $4.26 (RockAuto)
exhaust valve stem seals - VICTOR REINZ #B45736 AKA Subaru #13211AA110 x8 = $9.20 (RockAuto)
intake valve stem seals - VICTOR REINZ #B45735 AKA Subaru #13207AA120 x8 = $23.12 (RockAuto)
rear main seal - BECK/ARNLEY #0523670 AKA Subaru #806786040 = $9.75 (RockAuto)
crank front seal - BECK/ARNLEY #0523640 AKA Subaru #806733030 = $3.24 (RockAuto)
cam front seal - TIMKEN #223230 AKA Subaru #806732150 x2 = $6.70 (RockAuto) < Need one for each cam or are they a set of two already?
intake manifold gaskets - VICTOR REINZ #MS19262 AKA Subaru #14035AA383 = $4.78 (RockAuto)
oil pump seal - TIMKEN #710236 AKA Subaru #806733030 = $4.55 (RockAuto)
head gasket MLS - VICTOR REINZ #54461 AKA Subaru STI #11044AA642 x2 = $49.58
timing cover seal - VICTOR REINZ #67209 = $2.68 (RockAuto) < entire timing cover gasket/seal/sling?
Thermostat gasket - Subaru #21236AA010 = $3.43 (Rallysport Direct)
coolant/water pipe seal x2 - ?
crankcase/wristpin access cover gaskets x2 - ?
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Opel quoted me $50 each for head resurfacing.
$50 for flywheel resurfacing.
And $575 for valve job/lash adjustment.
 

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2000 RS-T coupe
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Discussion Starter #20
Part order from RockAuto & RallySport Direct shipped yesterday.
I dropped off the heads & flywheel to Opel this morning.
 
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