[Gryphen66]

I know this is the DIY forum and its been a great resource for me but there are just too many jobs I can't do myself. I've been a chevy (I know) guy for the longest time and as such my mechanic is ill equipped to deal with the scoobs. I would really appreciate any help locating an honest mechanic near the Poughkeepsie, NY area. Any help would be muchos-appreciated.

 

[rallifreak]

I feel for ya man, but unfortunately that area is just outside my sphere of familiarity.

 

[Gryphen66]

No mechanic...then help me through this

I mean I'd always rather do shit myself to save money...but diagnosis is NO JOB FOR A NOOB, can u gearheads agree? So when the bitch hit 210k and I've only known the history from 150k...and the suspension started to sound AWFUL, I paniced. Here's what I know, at highway speeds there are lots of diffrent squeeking sounds ONLY when the whell is dead-straight. When I crank on the wheel at low speeds the grinding in the driver-side front tire "area" is murder for me and the car. i figure its the bearings. Without paying omeone I don't know too much money to misdiagnose the problem...where does that leave the noob? I figure bearings are a good idea anyway at this milage...So 2 questions pop into my head: 1. when I take shit apart to send the "hub" or whatever to the mechanic to get the bearing or whatever pressed out and the new one pressed in (I hope thats the procedure) are there any other parts that would be stupid to NOT REPLACE at this milage. I take alot for granted so have patience with me please. Or, are there any other easily identifiable problems that I could check for during the dismantling process? Wow, thats a long thread, thanks in advance to anyone that actually reades and can have simpathy for a brother.

 

[LifelessViet]

well it seems like your having a wheel bearing problem? on the front driver side?. well, you would have to take out the hub, then have a shop press the bearing out for you. when they would press the new one in. thats all it is to it. if you have a press yourself, it would be less money involved, but bring to a shop should be $20 or $40 tops. my brother just got his done for $40 on both of his rear wheel bearings.

 

[Gryphen66]

I'm always interested in saving money obviously that being said just doing the bearings seems to be the way to go. However, does it make more sense to replace some of the bigger components i.e. hub assembly or what have you? Again, at 210k without knowing the cars history, are there suspension components that without a doubt will need replacing at such a high mileage?

 

[LifelessViet]

well if you feel as if the car is VERY BUMPY, and the car feels like the springs are loose when you turn or hear any like..bumping noises, you would probably need to change the struts and springs. but at 210k i would do a full tune up for ex. timing belt, water pump, thermastat, replace all the fluids:[coolant, oil, tranny fluids, spark plugs, spark plug wires, clutch fuilds, brake fluids] but if any of this is already done then your set to go.

 

[Gryphen66]

Bump to make sure anyone else who reads also thinks my problem is isolated to JUST the bearings...

 

[rallifreak]

at highway speeds there are lots of diffrent squeeking sounds ONLY when the whell is dead-straight. When I crank on the wheel at low speeds the grinding in the driver-side front tire "area" is murder for me and the car. i figure its the bearings.

Sounds like bearings to me. As for the rest of your suspension, fortunately they will all give quite distinct signs that they need to be replaced. For example, if your car bounces a lot or you get a loud knocking noise after going over a bump, replace the struts cuz they're blown. But I think you're ok for now, since Subaru stock suspension has an insane amount of life in it.

 

[Gryphen66]

Thanx again for the responses. I've been reading up on this...what I should have done before posting so many questions. That being said it seems like replacing/repacking the bearings is a job that can easily be mucked up by a mechanic that doesn't give a damn...and lately, anytime I pay someone to do something I can't...it gets mucked up and I get humped outta my hard earned money. I want your opinion when I say it seems ALOT easier to just replace the entire hub-assembly. At $100 bones a piece, as long as they come with bearings all greased and pressed in place as God intended them, it just seems like the obvious albeit easiest solution to the do-it-yourselfer. Please tell me I'm crazy before I go out and buy teo front hub-assemblies, and lower ball-joints, just cuz they're cheap and seem easy enough and worthwhile to replace. By the way, If I had the money and free time...I'd love to meet you freaks on the track. I'll bring the NewCastle

 

[Nacht]

i had a simular problem in my obs. turned out to be the bearing and axle....cost me some dough to fix it.

If you crank the wheel all the way and pull away slow from a stop, is their a ticking/clicking sound?

 

[Gryphen66]

i had a simular problem in my obs. turned out to be the bearing and axle....cost me some dough to fix it.

If you crank the wheel all the way and pull away slow from a stop, is their a ticking/clicking sound?

Oh man its like a ticking/clicking/grinding sound. It sounds like a metal on metal orgy under there. But the noise seems to be isolated to the driver side and there is almost no play in the wheel or under foot.

Also, I thought I saw a hub-assembly for 100clams but I may have been too high, I think it was justa hub. If anyone knows where I can get an assembly...let me know please.

 

[Gryphen66]

bump before I go to Advance to get bearings...Anyone actually have any luck finding an entire assembly online? In case its obvious, if this is something that wouldn't be available s'ept at a junk yard...then yes I am THAT GUY that doesn't know it, yet. Rock on Hudson Valley



P.S. Am I crazy for getting a boner thinking bout owning a swapped RS converted to RWD? I know these are scoobs but wouldn't the suspension be SO much crispier?

 

[rallifreak]

P.S. Am I crazy for getting a boner thinking bout owning a swapped RS converted to RWD? I know these are scoobs but wouldn't the suspension be SO much crispier?

you'd be surprised how much better AWD handles corners than RWD

 

[Gryphen66]

you'd be surprised how much better AWD handles corners than RWD

Is that REALLY true though? I mean on dirt theres no doubt but on the street? I am very ignorant though and have NEVER been able to really crank on my obs do to the mileage and such. I've only owned a FWD Beretta and a 2WD s-10 and so far a much rather prefer a RWD on a front engine vehicle. AWD is a whole new animal to me but so far its a blast.


ANother question: I'm in love with the coupes. WHy did subaru go with a sedan when it mainstreamed the WRX's and STI's? I'm sure the longer wheel base makes for comfier drivin but I would think it would hurt the "street-ability" of the car? Again, to put things in perspective, when I was 20 I thought my 3.1L chevy beretta would dominate my friends 300Z because my car had a bigger motor. So take it easy on me, none of my friends were gear-heads much to my detriment.

 

[Gryphen66]

Thanx again for all the info people, I'll be goin to Advance later then its just off to find a mech. with a press. Thanx to everyone who keeps this site up and running...its the ONLY FREE resource left. And as soon as I can...I'll start helping to support it also.