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2004
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey this is the story. I have a 2001 RS with 36,000 miles on her. All the footwork is stock, like the brakes, springs and struts.

This is what I bought from PDM Racing
http://www.pdm-racing.com

Eibach and AGX shocks and springs
KVR front and rear cross drilled rotors
KVR front pads

I'd like to put these stuff on but I'd like to have an even wear pattern so I get the most out of them. But there are the parts that are missing like SS braided lines and rear pads. Also I'd like to use Mutol 5.1 brake fluid.

I'm on a budget. So should I wait till I get everything that I want on it or should I put what I have on now BECAUSE currently my Brake lite comes on during hard brakeing or will just stay on after I put the parking brake down.

What should I do?
Thanks
Rudy
 
Silver 2K RS Coupe
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The only thing I can recomend is not to use the Motul fluid, or ANY DOT 5 fluid, unless you want to change it often. DOT 5 fluids tend to have a lousy wet boiling point, and they get "wet" pretty quick, as they tend to be very hydroscopic. A much better alternative for street fluid is ATE super blue fluid. It has a great wet boiling point, and it is not very hydroscopic. Also, hydroscopic fluid that has reached 4% water concentration has the same boiling point as water, i.e. 212F. Imaging doing 1 long, hard stop, and your fluid boiling in the caliper! Also, "wet" fluid leads to rust in your caliper.

One thing I forgot to mention about Silicone fluid, is that it doesn't absorb water, which is dangerous. Any water that condensates within the brake system won't mix with the fluid, so you have 2 seperate fluids in the system. Silicone fluid has incredible *dry* boiling points, but it must be changed VERY often. Racers who know change their silicone fluid after every race. Also, silicone fluid is not compatible with DOT 3 or 4 fluid, so the entire system must be cleaned if going to silicone, and again if going back to DOT 3 or 4.

Do yourself a big favor, and use the ATE super blue.

Just my $.02
 
Silver 2K RS Coupe
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I got mine (2 cans) from Hartzel Racing Associates for $26.20 shipped.

831-393-0119
[email protected]
http://www.hartzelracing.com

This fluid comes in metal cans instead of plastic bottles, so there is less chance of water contamination when stored.
Supposedly water can migrate through plastic. (?) Which means your fluid could be contaminated with water while in the resivoir even if the cap is tight! (!)
 

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2004
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Discussion Starter #6
sweet... but there has to be something cheeper???

also... any motul user's out there??? I wouldn't mind flushin my system every year... but like how expensive does that come out to????


with the Motul once a year @ $14 (that's two bottels) shipping

or $26.20 for the ATE? how often whould I have to flush that out?

Rudy
 

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508 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I've been doing some research and this is what I found.

ATE super blue:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/specmiatasuperstore/atesupblurac.html
Ate high-performance brake fluid for coping with the extreme demands posed by motor racing. Thanks to its outstanding wet boiling point, it has highest safety reserves. It is used in motor racing by leading car makes. Dry boiling point 280 degrees C (535F). Wet boiling point 200 degrees C (392F). Exceeds all DOT4 standards. 1 liter container.

RBF 600 Factory Line
http://www.motorspot.com/rbf600.html
100% synthetic fluid for hydraulic-actuated brake and clutch systems. Specifically designed to resist the high temperatures of actuated (steel or carbon) racing brakes and clutch systems.

EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: the elevated boiling point of RBF 600 FACTORY LINE (312°c / 593°F) enables effective braking even under the extreme conditions of competition.

VERY EFFICIENT IN WET CONDITIONS: the very high wet boiling point (216°c / 420°F), is superior to conventional brake fluids and provides a particularly efficient braking system in rain and retards the apparition of vapor lock.

NORMES : FMVSS 116 DOT 4 / SAE J 1703 / ISO 4925
 
Silver 2K RS Coupe
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I found this from shotimes.com

Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 Dry 446 Wet 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 Dry 550 Wet 290
ATE Super Blue Racing Dry 536 Wet 392
ATE TYP 200 Dry 536 Wet 392
Motul Racing 600 Dry 585 Wet 421
Castrol SRF Dry 590 Wet 518
Performance Friction Dry 550 Wet 284


Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers.

Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street.

ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars.

Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.

Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff!

Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point.
 

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2004
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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like everyone is going for the ATE...

is it me or isn't the motul have a higher boiling point and dry point?


ATE :
Dry boiling point 280 degrees C (535F). Wet boiling point 200 degrees C (392F)

Motul RBF 600

Dry point (312°c / 593°F). Wet boiling point (216°c / 420°F),
 
Silver 2K RS Coupe
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The Motul does have higher D/W boiling opoints. but it has to be changed often. (you won't have a "dry" fluid very long)

[from above]
Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.

I just learned ATE is not pronounced A-T-E, but Ah-Tay.
Learn somthing new every day! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess I'll use the Ah-tay for now since its blue and I want a good flush.... and 6months from now flush it out with the Motul
 

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ampsarus said:
I found this from shotimes.com

Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 Dry 446 Wet 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 Dry 550 Wet 290
ATE Super Blue Racing Dry 536 Wet 392
ATE TYP 200 Dry 536 Wet 392
Motul Racing 600 Dry 585 Wet 421
Castrol SRF Dry 590 Wet 518
Performance Friction Dry 550 Wet 284


What a plethora of information....THANKS!

:)
 

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Deznuts05 said:
I guess I'll use the Ah-tay for now since its blue and I want a good flush.... and 6months from now flush it out with the Motul
this is why ATE makes the exact same fluid in Blue and in "gold" so that you can alternate and know you're getting a good flush...

I reccomend the ATE wholeheartedly. It's what I use
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yea that's what I hear... the ATE Super'd dumper 200 fomula

Yea but I'd like to see the diffrences between the too... thanks!
 
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