[Rob T]

The first car I replced one of these on was my brother's '99 RS. At the same time we also put the clutch master cylinder from my STi swap donor in just to make sure there was nothing in the old fluid that could screw anything up. The clutch started sticking to the floor again a few months later. FWIW, I don't remember the brand of the slave that went in this time.
I got another slave and master along with a new line to try again and everything seemed okay at first but then the travel seemed like it was getting interupted again right before we sold the car. These were Centric brand parts.

My other experience was in my buddy's '00 RS. I put the same Centric brand slave, master, and line in and it worked totally fine for a few moths but now I am getting the sticking pedal again after only a few months.

My question is if I am doing something wrong for this to keep happening. I feel like it would never feel normal if I was.

HALP!

 

[JWalker]

Try using a different brand of Brake fluid. Also it helps to push the piston all the way down by hand (it compresses further than the clutch pedal will allow) that way you get all the last bits of trapped air out of there. If that fails well, fork up the $40 and get a new slave from Subaru and not a centric reman.

 

[Rob T]

Try using a different brand of Brake fluid. Also it helps to push the piston all the way down by hand (it compresses further than the clutch pedal will allow) that way you get all the last bits of trapped air out of there. If that fails well, fork up the $40 and get a new slave from Subaru and not a centric reman.

So you think pulling the master again and bench bleeding it by hand would help?

 

[JWalker]

So you think pulling the master again and bench bleeding it by hand would help?

I never had to bench bleed it. Just keep everything installed open the bleeder (keep a line attached and receptacle or vac bleeder above the slave at the other end) and push the piston by hand until it stops. Close the bleeder. Pump the pedal. Repeat until there's no visible air in the line going to the receptacle