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sold it to Susie the Subie
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
for those of you with AVO kits or PP6 installed on your car there is
the dreaded ON position that will fry your ignition coil. My brother
is an electric engineer and is in the process of making a proudct
that splices into a wire or two for my car that won't fry the coil.
Basically it tells the car to not send a signal to the coil if the car
isn't on in dummy terms. When he explains it, it sounds like it works
so he's going to try it on my car. He said he'd buy me a new coil if
it poped so I said what the hell.

I'll tell you guys how it worked out when it's on.
 

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95 GC 371hp/355tq ej25 1.5xtr
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thats interesting, and can be some useful info for people who have them installed.

let me get this straight, your leaving your car in the "on" position and if your coil fries your brother will buy you a new one if hes right about it frying?
 

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95 L, 96 OUTBACK
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What I cant understand is why it doesnt use RPM signal to determine if it needs to saturate the coil. Atleast thats what I am guessing is happening. That is the only thing that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I told him I didn't want him frying my shit so to stay out off my wiring but he offered
to buy me a new coil if he did fry it. The product should work, it involves crank sensor,
injectors and something about time between signals or some junk. I don't know, on
paper it makes lots of sense. Anyone else interested in one of these if it works?
 

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95 L, 96 OUTBACK
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I told him I didn't want him frying my shit so to stay out off my wiring but he offered
to buy me a new coil if he did fry it. The product should work, it involves crank sensor,
injectors and something about time between signals or some junk. I don't know, on
paper it makes lots of sense. Anyone else interested in one of these if it works?
Ohh ok I think I know what he is doing. He is doing just what I said. Taking the crank signal and fuel signals to determine when to start firing the coil.
 

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needs more cowbell
95L, 07 2.5i, R6
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How about using a relay powered off the fuel pump that will only allow the ignition to be on if the engine is actually running. Hence, no engine running=fuel pump shutoff=pp6 or coil shutoff = :)



85 of relay to ground
86 or relay to fuel pump positive lead
87 of relay to ignition source that would normally feed the coil
30 of relay to coil

So basically the positive 12v that would feed the common of the coil would be cut a few inches back from the coil. The 87 of the relay would be soldered to the car side of the wires, the 30 of the relay would be soldered to the coil side wire.
 

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How about using a relay powered off the fuel pump that will only allow the ignition to be on if the engine is actually running. Hence, no engine running=fuel pump shutoff=pp6 or coil shutoff = :)



85 of relay to ground
86 or relay to fuel pump positive lead
87 of relay to ignition source that would normally feed the coil
30 of relay to coil

So basically the positive 12v that would feed the common of the coil would be cut a few inches back from the coil. The 87 of the relay would be soldered to the car side of the wires, the 30 of the relay would be soldered to the coil side wire.


That would work just fine. The ecu turns the pump on only when it sees RPM.
 

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1990 legacy wagon
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There is the old way (coil frying) and the new way (no coil frying) of wiring the PP6 up.

They are completely different and use different global settings. But I only have the old style instructions. Rallitek has the new info.
 

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sold it to Susie the Subie
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
fuel pump, being electric turns on in accesory mode so the above wouldn't
work. It's not doing anything, but if you listen for it when you turn onto
accesories you will here its three clicks. My brother showed me how it
worked last night with some little circuit board thing, I guess the coil
has a pulse that blinks only at some certain time and his thing detects
these blinks, when it does it prevents the coil and when it senses crank
it lets the coil do its thing. He's supposed to try to install it this weekend I think.
 

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The fuel pump is on to prime the fuel system. It should turn off after the initial prime. Listen for it. It is a safety reason. If you get into a accident and the motor stops so does the pump that way you dont have a force feed fire.


Well maybe new wiring instructions can be gotten to alleviate this problem.
 

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needs more cowbell
95L, 07 2.5i, R6
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What I explained will work. The pump does NOT come on in the accessory position, it is only on in the ignition position. And it does turn off if the engine isn't running. I'm trying to help you out, what you decide to do is up to you. Surely someone else will run with it. You obviously are awaiting some intricate high tech circuitry that is highly unnescessary. You can lead a horse to water....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your method is too easy for me. I need an elaborate earth shattering solution that offends you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
^lol, that was my older brother who posted that btw, pretty witty and funny reply^
He's busy doing his own thing with Wii's and xboxs right now so this project is on puase,
but I'll let you guys know if there are any updates
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
never happend, lame haha
 
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