[N/A01RS]

First off, I am well aware that the hp/$ ratio for forced induction is much better than N/A. I am dead set on going all out N/A so if you dont have anything better to do than tell me that turbo is better please dont respond. I hate to come off like a jerk, but Ive done probably a hundred searches and whenever someone asks a question about going N/A theres a bunch of people that jump in and tell them its a waste of money. Oh well here it goes. This is everything related to making power that I have or intend to get...

C&R Radiator
Link2
Crane Cams Ignition
NGK Plugs
Nology Plug Wires
RC Eng. 370cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Go Fast Bits 3-Piece Pulley Set
Cobb Tuning Stage 2 Head Package
Cobb Tuning Stage 2 Short Block
AEM Intake (street)
Custom Ram Air Intake (track)
Cobb Tuning Throttle Body
Custom Intake Manifold (Syms Style)
Cobb Tuning Headers/Catalytic Converter (when released)
Tanabe Super Racing Medallion Exhaust

With this setup Im hoping to get good horsepower all the way to 8,000rpm's which should allow me to make it through the 1/4 mile without having to shift into 4th.

I am looking for any comments or constructive criticism that you have to offer. I look forward to hearing what you guys think.

 

[STiShawn]

I'd add a J&S Kncock guard, EGT and AF ratiometer..other than that it sounds great, good luck man. Im an NA guy myself.

 

[N/A01RS]

I was under the impression that the Link2 would cover the duties of the knock guard. No? As for the gauges Im ordering Omori white faced 45mm gauges in Vacuum, EGT for the A-Pillar and oil press, oil temp, and water temp for the stock gauge pack housing. There are many other items on my list to buy (hardened gears, clutch, front diff, flywheel, etc.), I just posted the items directly related to the engine.

 

[N/A01RS]

I just went back and looked at the Link website again and they have a "knocklink" upgrade for $120

 

[2Point5RS]

You really should go turbo! :lol:

Sorry man..

I like the list for power.

What about other stuff? Drivetrain, suspention, brakes?

 

[N/A01RS]

Cobb Front LSD
ACT "Street" Clutch
Cobb Flywheel
MRT Synchro Gearset
Sti Engine and Tranny Mounts
H&R Sport Springs*
KYB AGX Struts*
Eibach Allignment Bolts (4 corners)*
Solid Front and Rear Droplinks
Cusco Strut Bars (Front, Rear Upper and Rear Lower)*
Cusco Rear Sway Bar*
Cobb Tuning Big Brake Kit
Rear Slotted Discs
Stainless Brake Lines
Upgraded Brake Pads
SSR Competitions (18"x8")*
Pirelli P7000ss (215/40-18)*

*-Already Purchased


I think thats about it

As for the weight of the vehicle I have taken out the spare tire and plan on purchasing a carbon fiber hood and trunk when I get the body kit. With the dynamat and stereo (just one amp and one 10" sub) the weight will probably balance back out too stock, but maybe a slightly better front to rear weight ratio. I also have a set of Sparco EVO II seats, but I havent put them in yet so I dont know how much lighter they are than the stock seats.

 

[asusimpreza]

Wow, everything on that list looks good to me. Do you have any rough estimates of the cost (before labor)? Thanks.




Ben

 

[N/A01RS]

Alot. Enough that if I was smart Id probably just go buy a Mustang or something and make my life alot easier. Oh well guess im not very smart.

 

[N/A01RS]

I keep reading that with the "spicy" cams I will not pass emissions. Is it possible to make a separate map for the Link2 that will pass emissions or am I going to have to get a second car?

 

[STiShawn]

I dont know much about the link, but the cams probably have enough lift and duration to throw off your emissions test even with a seperate map. Also, to try to pass you'd probably have to lean it out pretty far which is risky....

Definetly run some sort of knock guard, with the amount your putting into this motor you'd be silly not to. Good luck man, post some pics when your done....and along the way too.

Shawn

 

[N/A01RS]

Will do on the pics. Im not keen on leaning it out to the point of risking my motor every year. If I cant pass emissions what are my options. I drive the car everyday to work. If I cannot pass emissions Im assuming that I cannot legally drive it on public roads. Correct? Anyone know of anyways of getting around this? Im dead set on doing this but I really dont want to have to buy a second car.

 

[FRAKK's2.5]

You know what there is always the Turbo option....

Naw! really that's a very nice setup, sounds like you are ready to build a monster...

 

[Zeorymer]

You're my hero! I'd really love to go the N/A route, but money doesn't come so easily to a college student... :/
Great work man, that thing IS a monster! I love it!
Good luck with everything you do to it, unfortunately I don't know what you could do about emissions...

 

[N/A01RS]

Ill be a college student also starting in January. Only part time though since I have to work full time to pay my bills.

 

[Sebaflex]

Cobb Front LSD

how do you like the LSD.. does it really help with the understeering??

ohh and post pics of your car.. i wanna see how those wheels look!:drool:

 

[Section 8]

THe overlap at idle kills your emmisions.

You can lean out the car and make it a little easier....IF you also reduce the throttle. Make a map that takes the TPS signal and only opens the throttle halfway. make it run hot at idle and raise the idle RPM so that the cat is very HOT. I still thinkthat the cams will kick your emmisions butt though. It may be a lost cause.

You can try to pass though, driving around for an hour or so before the test, leave it idel as they get everything ready and rev it slightly to heat it up as much as possible before the test. Its your only chance to pass.

If you don't pass you get a certain ammount of time to get it fixed and retested. The second time I think that your car is not able to be driven, or if you don't make it to the second test. This is what I have heard from someone in Colorado, so you may have different laws in your area.

cheeRS,

Greg

 

[ScottiE]

Well emissions all depends on where you are. I'm registered in Texas, but go to school in Colorado. Colorado is emissions Nazis, BUUUUUUUT in Texas I know a guy that if I ask nice enough ($$): Taps the brakes, turns on engine, checks lights, checks tires, and hands you your sticker. Not bad eh!?

 

[Section 8]

Go bite a pickle. :curse:

I can't pass the emmisions which is why I am dismantling my car. Looks like a turbo is the only way to pass emmisions if you are looking for a substantinal increase in power in my area of Wisconsin.

cheeRS,

Greg

 

[scotty305]

Don't forget little things like bypassing the Throttle Body coolant lines, getting phenolic spacers (low heat conduction) for the intake manifold, and lots of heat-wrap for the headers, and also for the intake.

I would recommend smaller wheels than 18" unless you've got brakes so big they won't fit 16 or 17" wheels. Spend the money on good tires, and you'll make up for the slight grip advantage. Smaller wheels accelerate quicker.

-s-