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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For years I was planning to do this mod. Finally, I got these 850cc injectors and rails that said "Outback" for $250 from some one on the forum. They looked pretty good. I start looking for a fitting to go from the rail to 5/16th barb. Guess what, those rails have an 8mm metric thread, not tapered, requiring a gasket. I tried auto store, Fastenall, Colorado metric, etc.

Finally, I found one place that had "a fitting". The guy was also making SS hoses. He was really good at convincing me that I should forgo a "ghetto brass barbs and clamps" solution and pay him excessive amount of money for a "racing setup". No, I don't race, but I was tired of smelling fuel out of the inside vents, so I just said fuck it. Here is what $700 of custom hoses + race fittings look like:

Passenger side (braised on fittings for in and out):



Driver side (with adjustable FPR):




Braised on fitting in the middle



Underneath view:




He also made similar stuff for the RRFPR and the fuel pressure sender. I'll post more pictures ones it's on a car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Not sure what was $700 either, I do have a receipt:
Just crimping was $80 (10x$8.5).
Six of #6 x 90deg Series 3000 hose ends was $112.
Brazing seven of $14 = $98
......
I was upset about 1 item for sure: "Install Injectors" $96, I was like "You stick injectors into holes", and he was like "If you want it done right, blah blah".

No, I never bought those AN things before, I always did barbs, 120psi rubber hose and fuel injector clamps. So, are you guys saying that it was not over the top overcharge ?
 

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really depends on what exact fittings you got...as in, who makes them

some stuff (Aeroquip) is great...lots of the stuff out there that looks like is doo doo

ideally (IMHO) the regulator should have been between the 2 rails so its regulating pressure evenly on either side, but on the driver side works too - different schools of thought I guess
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now that I think about it, you are right about the regulator being in the middle.
That's the difference between going to performance place and just a hose making place. He was trying to make it look neat.
On the other hand to do it right, I would need to get the same length between each injector and the regulator. Using some 4 to 1 teeing.
Most "parallel" mods (like this one) is just 2 in parallel x 2 in serial setups.

Hopefully, since the system has all rigid connections and SS hoses, the response to vacuum change will be quick.

One thing he did that I was wondering about. He said that injectors should move a little, so he put some spacers under the rail bolts. Now they can shift up and down by about 2 mm. I wonder if that will make them move every time there is boost/vacuum change.
 

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with the regulator in the middle, each injector gets the same pressure, and each rail feeds into the regulator. That's how I've done it before. The way you've done it, you're regulating pressure to the injector furthest from the feed, which is certainly a workable way to go as well.
 

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I'm guessing you've never bought AN fittings and hoses before
I have, just don't remember a $700 bill.

everything colorful and shiny in the pictures
:eek:rly:


Yea it does matter the brand/quality of fittings but after seeing the bill I guess labor is always a factor. And just like Z1 said, the way it was done for you works also, it just ends up being who does it and how they like to, but I'd rather have the regulator in the middle but o well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The regulator is in the middle. I don't know what you guys mean.
It's a "parallel" mod, so the fuel is coming from the filter, going to a splitter (see 3rd picture) to the fuel rails, then from each of the fuel rails to the 2 input ports of the regulator. Then output of the regulator goes back to the tank (through the RRFPR)<edit: scraped RRFPR>.

The red fittings on the second picture just blend it together, they are not connected.

I wouldn't spend that much $ just to change from one type of fuel line to another and leave the architecture the same.
 

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Summit racing has metric to AN adapters. AN fittings and hose is really easy to do yourself. I was always scared of it till I got it and tried it. You could have done most of that for a couple hundred dollars and a couple hours time. If you weren't comfortable with the brazing part you could pay someone to do that. It looks good but damn I could never bring my self to pay that much for a few braided lines.
 

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This is on my 2012 to-do list for the OBS-t.

I've had all of the the AN fittings/Y's/T's/clippers (about $250-$350), -6 SS Line (About $100), Fuel Rails (about $100), -6 fuel filter & -6 check valve for a double fuel pump set-up (about $70-100) for about 1.5-2+ years now just have not felt like getting to this project as I want to have my buddy make me a big plenum intake manifold at the same time I do the -6 lines/rails.

Aluminum AN Fittings / SS line / misc stuff adds up fast - If you have a hydraulic hose place near you they usually have steel AN ends that are Very INEXPENSIVE...
 

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This is on my 2012 to-do list for the OBS-t.

I've had all of the the AN fittings/Y's/T's/clippers (about $250-$350), -6 SS Line (About $100), Fuel Rails (about $100), -6 fuel filter & -6 check valve for a double fuel pump set-up (about $70-100) for about 1.5-2+ years now just have not felt like getting to this project as I want to have my buddy make me a big plenum intake manifold at the same time I do the -6 lines/rails.

Aluminum AN Fittings / SS line / misc stuff adds up fast
It is true but -6 AN isn't too bad. I don't get why your list is quite so high.
From Summit racing you could get 25 feet of hose and 30-40 fittings for that price.

I will say from experience though if you decide to run -16 AN for anything price everything out before committing. That shz get's expensive.
 

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For $700 with cheap Earl's fittings, I'd be a bit upset. Those fittings are bargain priced compared to what else is out there and for that price I'd expect top of the line components with fuel rails. Also, watch out for those stainless lines as they will wear into anything that they rub against!

With such systems, its honestly best to get the job done right the first time. It saves time and money in the long run. If I were to do this again, I'd opt for stainless hard-lines instead of braided lines. So far the Aeroquip Starlight hose is doing the job though, so I'll stick with it for now.








 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, you guys were right, I needed to do it myself.
The Weapon-R FPR diaphragm exploded while it was on a dyno. Nearly burned Harvey's place down.
I decided to redo the FPR side and the fuel filter side to make it more presentable.
I bought a bunch of Fragola fittings ($5 for basic ends, $15 for really nice low profile angles, $10 for basic angles, $10 for NPT to AN's, etc). Got a Professional Products fuel filter for $44 or so. Aeromotive 13129 regulator for $101. An wrenches set for $60. Aluminum Vice for $15.

The only thing is cutting that hose sucks. it frays and can't get it into the fitting. I used an air saw, maybe shears would be better.

Here is my result, compare the FPR position to the top of this thread.







Note the ZeroDrift rails instead of the "Outback" (which are now on sale).

I am having some "cavitation" problems. That is what Aeromotive tech says. I argue that the 13129 has some design issues. We agreed to disagree.
 

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those weapon r FPRs have a 1:1 rising rate already, with a rrfpr ontop of that, i could see why it blew out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
those weapon r FPRs have a 1:1 rising rate already, with a rrfpr ontop of that, i could see why it blew out.
I didn't have RRFPR on top. That was back before the big rebuild, I had stock regulator and stock injectors. When I put in ID1000 injectors, I didn't use RRFPR (I wrote the January post before reassembling the car).

I first put the car together NA, and had the WeaponR regulator, it worked good, kept the 40psi or so pressure. I drove with it for a month or so. Then I put the turbo in, and drove for a few weeks. Then I went to tune the car. On the Dyno, tuner told me to adjust the pressure higher. While fiddling, I may have turned it up to 80-90 momentary. Then back to 50.

2 minutes later, the engine stopped. We cranked it a couple of time, and would just hydro lock. Eventually, we noticed that fuel is squirting out of the boost gauge, which gave us a hint to look at the regulator. Gas was in the oil, in all vacuum lines, in the exhaust, onside the exhaust on the floor.

It could also have been the switch to E85 that ate through the diaphragm. Diaphragm was torn in the middle, 1/3rd way around.

The ss line shears summit sells makes life really easy when it comes to cutting these hoses & assembling the hose ends onto the lines.
Will get those shears for the next round of "redoing".

My parallel fuel system cost about $100, kept the stock pressure regulator and rails tho.
I bought all the crap for $100 method, the hoses and 5/16th fittings. And then I thought since have the manifold off, I should do it with fancy hose. But, I didn't know how it all worked, so I paid a dude. Now, it would prob cost me $200 to do it all over again if I had to. I wouldn't braise, just run new SS hoses under the manifold.
 
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