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Discussion Starter #1
I killed my front wheel bearings and decided that I was tired of replacing them just for them to go bad again in the near future. I began investigating some potential suppliers of upgraded wheel bearings after my friend who does off-road racing told me that its a must to replace the wheel bearings on their off-road Tacomas..
This is some of the information that I figured out today during my lunch break:

Part No: 517008

Front

Description
Value

Bearing Width 1.496
Bearing Width 38
Cone Bore 42
Cone Bore 1.6535
Cone Width 1.496
Cone Width 38
Cup OD 72
Cup OD 2.834
Type TDO

Part No: 513248

Rear

Description
Value

Bearing Width 2.0448
Bearing Width 51.938
Cone Bore 37.996
Cone Bore 1.4959
Cone Width 1.8874
Cone Width 47.94
Cup OD 64.994
Cup OD 2.5588
Cup Width 2.0448
Cup Width 51.938
Type TDO

Part No: 516003

Sti Rear

Description
Value

Bearing Width 2.0472
Bearing Width 51.999
Cone Bore 41.999
Cone Bore 1.6535
Cone Width 2.0472
Cone Width 51.999
Cup OD 71.999
Cup OD 2.8346
Cup Width 1.8898
Cup Width 48.001
Type TS

I've heard that the sti has a stronger bearing and hub design, which is why I threw that in there (reference).
Tomorrow I will make some calls and see what I can find out about upgrading to a bearing that can handle a stronger axial and radial load.
I will keep this thread updated with information I learn along the way.
Please feel free to comment on any bearing upgrades that anyone may have heard of or anything related to this topic.

-Kurt
 

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AYVI Motorsports
White 98 Impreza/06WRX
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Yea i think the reason the Sti switched to 5x114.3 in the first place was to allow for bigger bearings. So, I think the physical size of the hub is going to be the biggest limit on a bearing upgrade, but it might be possibly to find a manufacturer that makes similar size bearings that can perform better.
 

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2000 BRP 3.3RS
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If they keep failing quickly you're replacing/having them replaced improperly, or use very cheap, non-oem parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If they keep failing quickly you're replacing/having them replaced improperly, or use very cheap, non-oem parts.
Don't be so quick to assume..
I run high offset wide wheels with Azenis on coilovers and stock suspension with rally tires for the dirt. Between the offset and spacers I run on the street and the axial stress from the rally tires on the dirt, they don't last long.. ~6 months average so far, running them into the ground and having to replace the hub as well..
Our wheel bearings are a tapered roller bearing, which its axial or torsional strength is determined by the angle of the inner cup and outer cup..
Here is a link to simple explanation:
http://www.rbcbearings.com/tapered/basicpurpose.htm
 

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One of the rear wheel bearings in my RS is going out now. I can't tell which side yet, but I can hear it starting to progress. I'm thinking of getting an 04 STi hub if I can find it and throw the whole thing on instead of just doing the bearing. Probably cheaper and easier. Anyone know if the WRX hubs fit?
 

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2001 Impreza RS coupe
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i have wrx hubs, but im switching over to 4/2 pots ... you might have caliper mounting issues

supers, theres a vendor idea for you, upgraded wheel bearings!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Please keep this thread on topic, supers already has a thread on his vendor status. If you have something to say regarding it, please take it to his thread... Thank you.

-Kurt
 

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Ex-Mooderator
2001 RSTi, 2011 WRX Hatch
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What you want is the part # of the Nissan bearing from this thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070

Specifically, this post:
STI4ME said:
For[/url] those that are interested...

The factory wheel bearings I pulled out from my MY2002 WRX are made by NTN with p/n 4T-CRI-08A01 stamped on them. Looking at NTN's website, the dynamic load rating is 75,000 lbs. They also have two other p/n's (4T-CRI-0823 & 4T-CRI-0881) that have the same overall dimensions but dynamic load rating is much higher at 82,500 lbs. See http://www.ntnamerica.com/Engineering/PDFs/A1000/A1000_Tapered.pdf. Scroll down to page 30 for specs.

I wonder if these bearings are better than the factory spec'd units and if they are available to the general public.

Gary Sheehan, have you ever looked into this in your previous Suby life?


And you want to stop running high offset wheels with spacers.

If you HAVE to do something like that, then you should probably de-grease the bearings ahead of time and re-pack them with better grease that does better with high temps, like redline...3in ARP studs would be good too...

Just curious, what wheel/tire sizes are you running? I may have a better solution for you.

-- Dave
 

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One other thing you can look into is getting the hub bored out to accomidate a larger bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^^Thought about that too, but that should not be an issue if the axial load amount is increased via a different bearing.

What you want is the part # of the Nissan bearing from this thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070

Specifically, this post:




And you want to stop running high offset wheels with spacers.

If you HAVE to do something like that, then you should probably de-grease the bearings ahead of time and re-pack them with better grease that does better with high temps, like redline...3in ARP studs would be good too...

Just curious, what wheel/tire sizes are you running? I may have a better solution for you.

-- Dave
Thanks Dave, excellent info there. I'll check it out..
I'm running staggered, 17x8 with 235/45/17 and 17x9 with 245/40/17. I forgot what offset the wheels are, but I HAVE to run 12mm spacers just so they fit. Not to mention my fenders are rolled and pulled.
I didn't post this sooner because I don't want every ass that thinks they know something telling me how my wheel configuration is wrong.

Please tell me more about the grease. That is something I've played around with but not too serious. I've just used synthetic auto store grease.
Just so you know a little more about my current and future config:
currently:
L
2.2
Auto
Megan Coilovers (Shitty, but learned my lesson)
22mm rear sway (I think)

Soon to be installed:
V2 sti Ej20
V3/4 RA gearbox (DCCD 4.44 final)
mechanical rear diff
I already have these parts, but I need better strut spring combo, GD control arms to widen track.

-Kurt
 

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Please keep this thread on topic, supers already has a thread on his vendor status. If you have something to say regarding it, please take it to his thread... Thank you.

-Kurt
sorrys. by the way, someone (rallyfast maybe) once told me that legacy wheel bearings are the same size, but that they are less likely to brake/malfunction. you should try to look up some info on them to see if they are in fact a heavier duty bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I found some good info in the link that Acqua Cow posted..

From an individual on Nabisco:

The factory wheel bearings I pulled out from my MY2002 WRX are made by NTN with p/n 4T-CRI-08A01 stamped on them. Looking at NTN's website, the dynamic load rating is 75,000 lbs. They also have two other p/n's (4T-CRI-0823 & 4T-CRI-0881) that have the same overall dimensions but dynamic load rating is much higher at 82,500 lbs. See http://www.ntnamerica.com/Engineerin...00_Tapered.pdf. Scroll down to page 30 for specs.


From Gary of NTN:

Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chicagoland
Vehicle:
2004 STi
Silver


Default Part Number Options
OK, for those of you that have (or haven’t) read the engineering discussion I’ll talk a little about the two primary part number options.

The OE Subaru part number (I’ll call it the “08A01”) has been shown in the other post listed above. This is a good bearing and has been somewhat optimized for the application as previously mentioned. Anyone looking for a service replacement for their daily driver would be safe using this as a replacement.

The previously referenced post also mentions the use of a Nissan bearing which I’ll call the “0823” bearing. Many seem to question if this is a better alternative to the original Subaru bearing due to its higher load rating. I have done some research and feel that it would be a better alternative, but not specifically because of the load rating. The contact angle, length of roller, and roller compliment have all been changed. While these changes increased the load rating, they also changed the stiffness of the bearing. In theory, this should provide some benefit in terms of the brakes (knockback), result in slightly improved seal performance, and possibly result in some other marginal improvements in overall performance. I have calculated a 20%+ improvement in radial stiffness and a 40%+ increase in axial stiffness. The higher load rating is also nice, but I am not sure how much benefit as I am not aware of what the typical failure mode is. If you use this bearing, I recommend using the original Subaru installation torque specifications.

In summary, use the OE Subaru part for regular daily drivers. Experiment with the “0823” Nissan bearing if your car is a track hound or serious autocrosser.

Full model # on the box:
NTN 4T-CR1-0823CS113#01[J100]

SKF part no. FW105. (PepBoys)

-Kurt
 

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2001 RSTi, 2011 WRX Hatch
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This post is actually from an engineer at ntn that has a subie and he's seems confident that the Nissan bearing can be used as an upgrade..
I'll try them and find out?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13501586&postcount=2

-Kurt
Well, Gary U is the same engineer that stated "don't fix what ain't broke"...

It played out like this (when you read the entire thread):


NEWEST Update!!!!!~

From NTN engineers:
"The general opinion of the WRX "conehead" racers here is "don't fix what ain't broke". Load ratings for your application are not as important as the proper endplay clearance and the Nissan bearings have a slightly larger clearance."
So on that note I am NOT going to be installing the -0823, I'm going to order the OEM from my local dealer.
Well, interesting to read this! The NTN technical support person you quoted asked me (NTN Design Engineer) about your question. I guess that makes me the "Conehead Racer". OK, so I do own an STi and have been to more than a couple autocrosses.

I read through some of the long list of posts here. I'll look into the real differences in the various T/U hubs we make of this same physical size. Chances are I will need to do this myself someday.
So do, with that information, what you will...

After the above, Gary U stopped replying to the thread.

-- Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, he stopped posting info, but later there is a referrence to another thread that Gary U started. That thread is where the other info that I posted in #13 was quoted from. It seems from that point on he was posting in his own thread...
I feel that it's worth trying..
I will post after I install them in a couple days..

-Kurt
 

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The Dash Flocker!
00 GF, 04 Jetta TDi
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I replaced my rear bearings twice, once with oem and now with the Nissan part number supplied above. No issues after two rallies and couple thousand miles. FWIW I run 3" ARP wheelstuds and 5 mm spacers.
Be sure to use the highest quality syn grease, applied very liberally.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Picked up the new bearings, repacked them with some Mobil 1 synthetic grease (Only reputable brand that was in stock locally) and installed them over the weekend. We'll see how they hold up once I get my wide wheels and coilovers back on the car, so far they feel great...

-Kurt
 
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