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Discussion Starter #1,122
If I were to get my hands on a roof from a GC8 type RA would it be possible to swap the roof from that car to an RS, for sole purposes of having a roof vent instead of a sunroof? Is it possible to do this relatively inexpensively?
well, getting it off of one car and onto another in good shape would be a trick.

the easiest way would be to

1. remove headliner, sunroof, drip rails, have front and rear glass cut out

2.drill out the spotwelds to remove the roofskin (thru 1 later of metal ONLY using a spotweld bit

3. prep the flanges, ground down smooth to bare metal and free of any paint

4.do the same to a NEW 'L' roofskin and panel bond the 2 together using 2 part panelbond like FUSOR or 3M.. clamp overnight until set

5.get your fiberglass RA vent and flapper thingy and install them using either fiberglass resin, or a Panel bond for fiberglass AND steel, apply this to bare steel. then cut the hole and install the flapper thing. also some obdo may be needed to smooth the transition from the scoop to the roofskin.

6.smooth, prime, block, prime, block and paint

7.reinstall everything else, including a new headliner without a sunroof hole, modifying it to accept the flapper thingy...

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sounds like about a $1500 job if I had to guess
 

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Discussion Starter #1,123 (Edited)
ok how about satin white? :lol:

idc about the resale value, i have a RS swapped L ...long story how it happened. its one of those cars were it is worth more to the owner. :)

my car is green with blue coupe doors, with gold wheels, and a silver hood. it looks ridiculous. i just want it a sold color that i can have for cheap (less then 500 maybe :noes: i know it probably wont happen)

this is the look i am going for :drool:



i dont want to rip out my engine bay (idk maybe, its pretty bare as it is) but i at least want all the door stills to be the same color.

I think that's the coolest white car I've ever seen.....


yep.. it is..

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anyway, a $500 paintjob isn't impossibe, but I just painted my own RS in the bodyshop where I work and spent about $450.. but that was using the shop equipment.. not shit I had in my garage..

do you have a HUGE air compressor, with enough CFM at the hose end and enough pressure to get you thru a full coat? do you have a warm ventilated dust free place to paint it? do you have a DA sander, 36 80 180 220 320 400 600 sandpapers, tape, paper, all the tools to take your car apart, scuff pads, prep soap, primer, a primer gun, mixing cups, strainers, bondo, spreaders, finishing putty, sanding bocks, grinders, grinding disks, parts stands, bumper stands, degreaser, lint free towels, tack rags??


I'd advise finding a bodyman to do this as a sidejob.. or a ghetto shop... even a maaco might be able to pull off this one.. (they tape around everything, so you'll need to remove everything first... retarded, but that's their way... if you tape around handles/moudings, it WILL peel up around the edges)

a satin finish is easy, a gloss finish is hard.. there's no buffing involved, and the application of a satin finish is pretty easy for even a dumbass bodyman to get great results...

this thing is putting the paint on the car is like 5% of the job.. the other 70% is the disassembe and prep, then about 25% is reassembly.

if you dork the prepwork, you're just thowing your money away because it's going to look retarded all dented, wavy and dinged up

(unless you 'murder it out' (ratrod) with some flat black and red/white von dutch pinstripes.. then dents are a badge of honor, and not an embarrassment)
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want to save even more money, take out your doorcards and handles yourself

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is painting your own car just a pipedream, or can you handle all the craftsmanship and cost involved?
 

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well, getting it off of one car and onto another in good shape would be a trick.

the easiest way would be to

1. remove headliner, sunroof, drip rails, have front and rear glass cut out

2.drill out the spotwelds to remove the roofskin (thru 1 later of metal ONLY using a spotweld bit

3. prep the flanges, ground down smooth to bare metal and free of any paint

4.do the same to a NEW 'L' roofskin and panel bond the 2 together using 2 part panelbond like FUSOR or 3M.. clamp overnight until set

5.get your fiberglass RA vent and flapper thingy and install them using either fiberglass resin, or a Panel bond for fiberglass AND steel, apply this to bare steel. then cut the hole and install the flapper thing. also some obdo may be needed to smooth the transition from the scoop to the roofskin.

6.smooth, prime, block, prime, block and paint

7.reinstall everything else, including a new headliner without a sunroof hole, modifying it to accept the flapper thingy...

--


sounds like about a $1500 job if I had to guess

I saw someone on NASIOC who had actually purchased a complete RA roof, cut off at the pillars so that the actual roof skin and headliner were in tact. would this be a less expensive option? to take the roof off of one and put it on an RS instead of just using an L roof and installing the vent on that?
 

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95 GC 371hp/355tq ej25 1.5xtr
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I
do you have a HUGE air compressor, with enough CFM at the hose end and enough pressure to get you thru a full coat? nope, i will have to rent or borrow one do you have a warm ventilated dust free place to paint it? i have a 3 car garage, that i was planning on putting brand new covers on all the walls/ceiling. i have 2 windows and 1 door, i was planning on putting a fan sucking air out in one of the windows. do you have a DA sander, 36 80 180 220 320 400 600 sandpapers, tape, paper, i have a orbital buffer, electric sander (the kind that vibrates) i will need to get all the sandpapers all the tools to take your car apart yes, build my entire car :D scuff pads, prep soap, primer, a primer gun, mixing cups, strainers, bondo, spreaders, finishing putty ill have to get that stuff, i knew i had to get it anyway sanding bocks i have a rubber sanding block, i want to get a big long sanding block too, i heard the longer the better grinders, grinding disksyes parts stands, bumper stands, degreaser, lint free towels, tack rags i was planning on handing the fenders/hood/trunk ( i have an aluminum hood BTW)from the ceiling, the bumpers i was planning on using some milk crates :noes:

I'd advise finding a bodyman to do this as a sidejob.. or a ghetto shop... even a maaco might be able to pull off this one.. (they tape around everything, so you'll need to remove everything first... retarded, but that's their way... if you tape around handles/moudings, it WILL peel up around the edges)


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want to save even more money, take out your doorcards and handles yourself

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is painting your own car just a pipedream, or can you handle all the craftsmanship and cost involved?

painting my car isnt a "dream" or anything like that. i just want a decent paintjob because my car is all different colors(doesnt need to be "show car ready" or anything like that. but i want a paint job that will last a few years, and hold up to the northeastern winters.

i just want to DIY because if something went wrong (paint on a fender peels up or something like that) then i would like to have all the tools to do it my self again, on my time.

i wouldnt mind prepping the car, masking, taking door cards/ handles off...etc. and bring it to a shop, but if i was to save 100 bucks vs DIY... then i would like to TRY to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,126 (Edited)
if you're really serious about changing the color of your car, the first thing is to take it all part, remove all trim, weather stripping, everything.. you may need some specialty tools for some trim stuff.

then sand, prep, clean and paint the jambs of everything, underhood, decklid, hinges, and cut in the feder edges (take them off, and paint the insides if the door gaps, and hood gaps .

then reassemble the car, align gaps, and get everything straight, bodywork wise, then prime and prep for paint.

after all that then you can mask it up and paint it.. then reassemble after that

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if you're serious about this then start your own thread, and I'll walk you thru every step like Illnasty, who has chosen the hardest paintjob on earth to do as his first paintjob...


yours is much easier, and should turn out good with novice skills


our cars are really easy to take apart and build, so most of the hard stuff will be bodywork.. it's not easy.

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I even have a I-CAR collision textbook if you'd like to learn some schtuff.
 

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good idea on starting my own thread. i will do that for sure when the time comes.

why would paint the jams and stuff first, them put all the trims on, mask, then paint?

im not questioning your knowledge but once i would pull everything off (trims, weather stripping...etc) wouldnt it be better to paint EVERYTHING at once?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,128 (Edited)
trust me, I'll tell you the quickest and easiest way to great durable results.. cutting corners takes away the great, and the durable.. next think you know, you're spending just as much time and money fixing what you could've done right the first time..

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if you paint the doorside jambs while thy're on the car, they'll look crappy, plus, do you really want to stand on your head to try and paint the underside of your door? you'll end up with paint where it doesn't belong, and it's just the ghetto way to do it.. cutting corners is only OK when you know what corners to cut. I'll totally steer you in the right direction.

plus if you want to paint the entire door for example, at once. you'll have to suspend it, paint it while it's swinging around, or paint one side, flip it over, paint the other, then try to mount and align a finished panel.

even professionals have problems mounting fully painted parts without scratching, nicking, dinging, and denting them.. and we do this shit everyday...

if you cut everything in,then mount it and align it, any damage can be fixed before painting.. plus aligning panels involves bumping, tweaking, shoving, whacking, slamming, hammering, prying, grinding.. so doing this before the exterior paint is a must.. 90% of shops do it this way..

you'll still leave the weather stripping and such off for when you paint the exterior so not to get overspray on them.. you'll also mask off the inner jambs, and windows leaving the entire exterior to be painted at once, this will eliminate flop problems from panel painting then installing.. but unless the white has metallic or pearl, flop won't be an issue..

anyway, you've got your work cut out, so let me know if you have any questions
 

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OK guys, I know I'm going to have to post a picture but I'll try and just ask

I have a 99 impreza L and it looks like it might have bumped some stuff with the front end. The only problem is the passanger side has about an inch gap between the headlight and the bumper and the driver side is about half an inch gap. How would I fix this?

should I try and hammer the bumper support or is it probably the radiator support that bent?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,135

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Hey big shiz, Is there an appropriate way to wetsand and buff out runs in clearcoat ?

I need to invest in some more lighting before I spray the entire car, because I seem to not know how much paint is enough :lol:
 

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I've got a question: I've got a 1.5" rust spot that's bubbling on the corner of the roof underneath the molding for the windshield near the A-pillar. It definitely needs to be cleaned up and painted over, but I will be leaving on a long trip soon so I can't get it repainted for the next 10 weeks or so (the rust looks like it's been there for a few months already).

Would there be anything I could seal it up with quickly that would protect it and prevent it from spreading too much until I come back? Would clear RTV silicone sealant work and not damage the surroundings (and be removable when I take it to a body shop) or is there a better solution?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,140
Hey big shiz, Is there an appropriate way to wetsand and buff out runs in clearcoat ?

I need to invest in some more lighting before I spray the entire car, because I seem to not know how much paint is enough :lol:

yeah, it takes a lot of finesse though.

you can waid a few days until it's nice and hard, then hold a razorblade 90degrees to it, perpendicular, and scratch off layers of clear until it gets somewhat flat, then wet block with an itty bitty block with 800. then 1000, then 1500 then buff it out.

if you're lucky they will be gone, if you're not you'll need to sand this area flat with 180, prime wherever you broke thru, wetsand and prep the entire panel back out, then base over the primer spots, blending outward (or just re base the entire panel, whatever), then clearcoat the entire panel

then you get to buff a black car!!! whoopee!!!

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it's making me cringe just talking about it
 
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