how much did they quote you? i wanna do the same thing, i hate my sunroof!992.5RS said:You want to swap my roof? I want an L roof on my RS! Body shops around here suck and charge too much!
roof panel would mean just the squre area on the top? not the pillars right?biGshizzle79 said:cost of the new roof panel
cost of removal of old panel
cost of installation of new panel
cost of painting and buffing
whatever that adds up to
Yes, the area between the front and rear windshields and black roof rails.s.g.d said:roof panel would mean just the squre area on the top? not the pillars right?
2.5rsleeper said:okay new question. Someone backed into my bumper this weekend. I got hit in the passenger side rear quarter. The damage is minimal, meaning the hit only affected the rear quarter and not the door or anything. However, it's creased badly, and is not something that can be "popped" out.
Here's my question. From the standpoint of cost is no object, which is the more desirable course of repair:
1. hammer it out, then fill it back to spec with filling agent
2. cut and replace the panel
I'm thinking that #2 would be better for the structural integrity of the car. Are there any other advantages/disadvantages that i'm missing, ignoring cost.
Thanks in advance
poormansporsche said:I gots a question.... maybe a couple....
At work there is a BMW M3 thats "Alpine white". It looks nothing like "Aspen white". It's all pretty and shiney. I want my car to look shiney too. I was going to get an Ai bonnet and trunk so I will be spraying those. Also want to get the front bumper, rear wing, rear spats, rocker panel covers and will likely get a JDM rear bumper at some point. Should I just repaint the whole car in BMW "Alpine white"? Or is my Subaru paint have a hidden luster and shine lurking below the surface.
Subaru paint is ass so I'm guessing I'll have to respray the whole damn thing for best results.
The factory has the special Easy Bake Oven process that makes the paint adhere better to the panels (I'm told this but have yet to see a subaru without chips in the front). Do any paint shops have something like this maybe on a smaller scale so I can do my hood and front bumper? I'm tired of repainting the front of my car every year or so.
so you're saying that neither method is particularly beneficial/detrimental?biGshizzle79 said:take a picture.. its waaaaay easier to tell
my rear quarter is bashed in too, (assholes)
some can be repaired, some its easier/cheaper to replace the panel...
you could cheat it, in the d-pillar somewhere, if you're good
(leave the good section of the original roof rail in, cut it, and weld/join the newer part to replace the damaged section, prolly above the rear window)
biGshizzle79 said:the factory uses highly advanced robotic electrically charged painting proceedure that cannot be reproduced outside the factory..
the panel is charged negatively, and the paint is charged positively
you can however make the same RESULTS.
as for chip resistance, use flex agent in the entire front end's clearcoat..
it will reduce rock chips, and cracking in your clearcoat, especially on plastic bumpers
killer, thanks.992.5RS said:Yes, the area between the front and rear windshields and black roof rails.
I am going to be getting a quote on all the bodywork my car needs as well as replacing the roof very soon. I will let you know what I find out.
factory is basecoat/clearcoat, same as we'd spray in the bodyshop..poormansporsche said:So does the factory paint job have much shine to it? If I start with the rubbing compound will I find anything other than the base coat?
see my painting rims DIY:habitual said:I got one for you. I have a 01 RS with the stock gold 16 inch wheels. The gold paint is chipping pretty bad. What is the best way to either remove the paint and just have the aluminum show or what do i need to repaint them gold?