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The reason I ask is because you said that red doesn't cover shit soo...I was wondering which color would actaully cover better.
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #302
red just takes more coats to cover a grey primer/sealer..

red cover's fine over a red sealer.

same whith yellow over a white sealer,

or black over a black sealer.

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it's when the sealer doesn't match that it takes a few more layers of basecoat to cover and acheive hiding..

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when you spray base/clear, you can have a shitload of coats of base, it's fine..

like a custom flame job could have up to 30 coats of different base under the clear..

see post 300 for some cool shit, I edited it while you posted last, and it flipped a page...
 

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hey shizzle, got one for ya.. this winter my hood took some damage from falling icicles (5 small dime to quarter sized dimples/dents) my question is how would a bodyshop fix them?
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #306
OConGnar said:
hey shizzle, got one for ya.. this winter my hood took some damage from falling icicles (5 small dime to quarter sized dimples/dents) my question is how would a bodyshop fix them?
if the paint surface is still good, ask a Paintless Dent Removal dude...

if not, cave it, and pave it, then primer and paint
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #307
gongeuzler said:
would this work?


uuhhhhh

:confused:
that's called bodywork...


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and there's even pictures of them doing it...


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pretty sure it worked...

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I'd paint the entire rim, tho.

not just a section,


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crowbar gouges,,, just more bondo, or weld them up with aluminum...

most likely bondo, tho
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01 Impreza RS Coupe BDP
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I've been calling around about having my rear fenders rolled.
And I understand that the paint might/will crack. But A couple of shops have said that they might need to repaint the whole 1/4 panel. What is the likeliness of this happening?
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #310
uhhhh

you're stretching the metal, on which the sealers, and paint adhere to..



sounds pretty likely to me...

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just jet some 17s, and low pro's...


tuck just fine...
 

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01 Impreza RS Coupe BDP
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Thanks biGshizzle.
I got some 17's (same as the gold OZ's on the grey wagon on on the home page) with some 215/45/17 rubber and stock suspension, but the offset makes them stick a bit a rub. And the trim parts are already dettached, but still hook on to the metal tab.
I asked one guy and he said with heating the only paint that might crack would be on the little lip that gets folded up. Is that what you have seen in the past?
 

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Discussion Starter #312
if you can fold in the flange without disturbing the actual quarter's paint, then just touch up any paint in the wheel well that has cracked to prevent corrosion and rust...

any compromised paint will eventually lead to RUST.. so be picky. wheel wells are the WORST place for cancerous rust...
 

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2.5RS Rally Car | 06 WRX
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I have some rust starting up on the edge of the drivers side door (just surface stuff) and on the rear wheel/well some bubbling up under the paint... I can see that it's starting to show up a but under the bumper right behind the wheel well too.

Since this is relatively minor surface stuff for now, how much would you estimate it would cost to fix something like this? I don't need a top notch job, just something that will keep it from rusting more. A rough estimate on $$$ and/or hours would be awesome :)
 

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Discussion Starter #314 (Edited)
kainam00 said:
I have some rust starting up on the edge of the drivers side door (just surface stuff) and on the rear wheel/well some bubbling up under the paint... I can see that it's starting to show up a but under the bumper right behind the wheel well too.

Since this is relatively minor surface stuff for now, how much would you estimate it would cost to fix something like this? I don't need a top notch job, just something that will keep it from rusting more. A rough estimate on $$$ and/or hours would be awesome :)

I can't give prices, they vary from shop to shop/ labor/materials..

the door is no big whoop...

the quarter may be a bitch...
it'll need to be ground off until there is no more rust...
thing is, sometimes that leaves no metal left to paint!!

then you need to weld in a patch panel, PROPERLY, to repair it, and avoid any further rust...

the wheel well is highly succeptable to rust, so the repair MUST be done properly.. following I-CAR proceedures for corrosion protection

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then the door, rear door, and quarter should be painted/blended

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try dropping by about 5 body shops to estimate the cost of this minor rust repair.

if you're lucky, one shop may even warranty the rust repair...


almost noone will warranty a rust repair, so maybe check the yellow pages and call around until you find a shop that does
 

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The other night my friend jumped/fell on my front fender, it has a nice large dent in it and the paint is peeling back from the edge where the fender meets the hood. He wanted some proof that it was him so i gave it a nice little punch to show him it didnt take that much pressure, that added another dent next to it. Would it be best just to replace the whole fender or could I get the dents pulled and painted? The car is a 2005 CGM 2.5rs wagon. I found the fender for $132 online and then it would need to be painted and installed. How much do you think painting would be? Also how hard is fender to install, it seems like its mainly a bolt on piece, or would it be best to have a body shop do it and how much would that run?

Its probably the worst day my car has ever had, woke up in the morning to a parking ticket, then saw my windshield had cracked from a chip it got a week earlier, and then the fender damage, it was an expensive day.
 

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ttamojom said:
The other night my friend jumped/fell on my front fender, it has a nice large dent in it and the paint is peeling back from the edge where the fender meets the hood. He wanted some proof that it was him so i gave it a nice little punch to show him it didnt take that much pressure, that added another dent next to it. Would it be best just to replace the whole fender or could I get the dents pulled and painted? The car is a 2005 CGM 2.5rs wagon. I found the fender for $132 online and then it would need to be painted and installed. How much do you think painting would be? Also how hard is fender to install, it seems like its mainly a bolt on piece, or would it be best to have a body shop do it and how much would that run?

Its probably the worst day my car has ever had, woke up in the morning to a parking ticket, then saw my windshield had cracked from a chip it got a week earlier, and then the fender damage, it was an expensive day.

Not to answer your question, but both you and your friend are asshats for doing this to such a nice new scooby
 

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Stuff happens, my friend is going to pay for it so its not that big of a deal.
I was really surprised by how easy it dented, my old volvo was a tank compared to the subaru.
 

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Discussion Starter #319
I'm not psychic, so I don't know the prices of parts, and different shops labor/material cost.

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what I can tell you is:

the $135 fender is most likely aftermarket, made in taiwan, won't fit properly, and is made of inferior metal guage..

even thinner metal than OEM...
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get a few estimates from local body shops. repair vs replace quotes

try for a salvage OEM part(less $$$, same quality), not new or aftermarket


the door will need to be blended if the fender is replaced, this will ensure a undetectable repair, and the color won't stick out like a sore thumb
 
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