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wow just ran into this great thread bigshizzle. im an amature painter do work mostly for 1/4 scale models for car desgn

1. i'm planning on painting a bike and all the fairings and body peices are in good shape. how should i go about about painting i.e strip old paint or lay basecoat over it or use a primer or sealer?

2. what process do you normally use, i was tought while painting models(big ones)....after the base coats dry, lay a thin color coat, let dry 5 min, 3 wet coats 5 min drytime between. switch to clear and 2-3 wet coats 5 min dry time in between.

here a recent one dupont chomo paint, 3 stage with a gold dry pearl

 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #283
dfish...

no need to strip the paint unless it is seriouly failing.. cracking, peeling. ect...


just make sure to sand everything smooth, an featheredge any thing you can feel isn't smooth.. use your hands, not your eyes...

then prime, ans sand, prime and sand until it's perfectly smooth everywhere, and covered in primer.

no need for sealer if it's completely primed
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #285
Big Ben said:
Got some replia SYMS sideskirts for my 00. Fit and finish is good, but I was thinking of molding the top of them to the car. 1. Is this a good idea? and 2. Could it be done with bondo, and then finishing bondo? NOT molding them to the front fenders in case they need to come off.



that's a waste of time, and there is no correct way to do it anyway.

using that much bondo will only cause you to repair, and repaint in the future.

molding panels together is a total hack job.. unless it's metalwork, like on a hot rod or something... then it's cool..


but just smearing bondo on shit, and painting over it is kinda ghey...

rice tastic, really
 

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98rsti RallybluePearl
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Okay my car was keyed and i am planning to paint the whole drivers side of my car by myself.. now for sanding i was told to use 5000 grit on the key marks and then where it wasn't keyed (the rest of the rear quarter panel) to use a red block to basically get some paint off but not sand it so bare metal... is this the right way to attack this job!?
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #288
I'd suggest having a bodyman or painter do it as a side job.


if you've never painted before, it will most definately not turn out well.

then you'll have wasted time, money and effort, and still need to get it fixed anyway...

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everyone thinks painting their car is easy and cheap...

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actually it's expensive, difficult, and requires skill and practice
 

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Discussion Starter #289
Carisma said:
I was wondering how much paint it takes to paint a car complete.

I am looking at respraying my car and I want to buy the paint, clearcoat and anything else I need. Also what else would I need besides paint and clearcoat?

It is basically just going to be a respray to a darker color over the original paint.

Thanks,
Geran

I assume you're having someone who knows how to paint, paint it?

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anyway, do you want single stage (cheap), or base / clear (more expensive, but glossy)

what color are you painting it? are you changing colors?
 

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Probably base/clear...

It is going to stay the same color I am just putting some new body parts on and I want it all to match pretty much.

I would never try to paint my car unless I had alot of experience in doing it so that is why I am going to get it done by a professional.

I have a half a pint of paint right now of the same color as the car and I was just wondering how much more I need. The body parts I am putting on are a front bumper and rear spoiler.

Thanks.
 

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98rsti RallybluePearl
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I wonder the same how much paint would i need for front bumper side skirts and the whole drivers side?
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #292
2pt=1qt


amt of basecoat:

whole car = 3-4quarts

front and rear bumper= 1qt

more paint for red cars (red doesn't cover for shit)

depending on if the sealer is tinted to match the color of the paint, it will save you paint to acheive coverage with tinted sealer...

some systems don't use tinted sealer, some do...

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amt of clear: 2 coats

whole car .. 2 - 3 qt

front and rear bumper 1 qt
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name brand PPG/Dupont/Sikkens materials for a whole car base clear is prolly $500

cheaper brand base/clear maybe $250
 

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I am installing a RS front bumperskin on my OBS swap while doing a FMIC install. I had to cut out the center pieces of the urethane bumperskin for the FMIC, which left a couple voids I would like to fill. What is your recomended way to fill in voids in a urethane piece? How about to fill minor scratches in a bumperskin? It is unpainted currently.

I have used fiberglass for a smiliar project on my Forester, but it was a much more rigid piece (ABS plastic), I am concerned about the urethane flexing too much for the fiberglass to get a good bond.

Also know any painters in AZ? Its about time to give the car a new coat. :)

Thanks.
 

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06 Wrangler Unlimited
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What kind of paint would you reccommend if I wanted to paint my hood flat black. Do I need to use High-Temp, or should I use something like Krylon or Rustoleum? Also, should I clear coat it?
 

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Discussion Starter #296
AaronB said:
I am installing a RS front bumperskin on my OBS swap while doing a FMIC install. I had to cut out the center pieces of the urethane bumperskin for the FMIC, which left a couple voids I would like to fill. What is your recomended way to fill in voids in a urethane piece? How about to fill minor scratches in a bumperskin? It is unpainted currently.

I have used fiberglass for a smiliar project on my Forester, but it was a much more rigid piece (ABS plastic), I am concerned about the urethane flexing too much for the fiberglass to get a good bond.
for small cosmetic dings, and scrapes you can use skim coat body filler.

it's called frosting, icing, pooky, skim coat, whatever.. it's really thin runny filler.. you can even use it over paint. just be sure to sand before applying.

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for bigger areas, or actually repairing a tear or hole in plastic bumpers, use 3M 2 part bumper repair stuff..

it smells just like dog shit once you mix the two parts together... great....

it's sandable, flexible, and structually sound enough to repair a huge tear in plastic..

rough it in with that shit, then use the pooky over it to finish the cosmetic repair..

then prime, and paint..

aegean93l said:
What kind of paint would you reccommend if I wanted to paint my hood flat black. Do I need to use High-Temp, or should I use something like Krylon or Rustoleum? Also, should I clear coat it?
I recommend SEM trim black. it even comes in a rattle can...

that's what we use on any trim peices that are screwed up, just dust it on dry as can be, over and over again.

don't use any wet coats!!! hold the can far away!! spray even methodic coats... one pass, and back again... none of this swirly random spray can shit.. ... buy a few too many cans in case you run out halfway thru, you can always take them back ... your local body shop supply store will have this stuff


if you use krylon, it will be completely matte flat black, and it will look like you spray painted your car.... not cool...


the SEM is slightly less flat, but still not really glossy, or even semi glossy when applied dry...

be sure to sand with 800grit before painting, and featheredge any rock chips, or imperfections out.....
 
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