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Discussion Starter #1
(if I'm not supposed to post this stuff here then you can delete this thread and send me a nasty e-mail er somethin)

Did this post on I-Club first....

I'm commin into a little extra money and I was wondering what to spend it all on... (I'm gonna wish I had all the money I'm about waste later I bet)

I have a 2001 RS Sedan - Stock

Rear Sway Bar: Adjustable (not the one thats 20mm only right?)
Why is there not a front one?

Strut Bracers Front and Rear: does it matter what kind? I saw some Whiteline ones for 100ea and I saw Cusco ones for 180ea I also read a post that said GC8 didn't need bracers really...

CAI: I like everything I've read about the Cobb (except that its loud... I'm not sure if I like loud..)

Cat Back Exhaust: I'm thinkin about goin w/ the Stromung Dual tip w/ mid-pipe... is there a performance diff in Mild Steel and Stainless Steel? (again not lookin to go too loud... just too fast)

Possibly Borla Headers in the future...

Do any of you guys in the Tampa, FL area have any mods currently installed that I could look at/listen to?

I was wondering what to get first... any input would be helpfull... please don't be fooled into thinkin that I know what the heck I'm talkin about just because I said GC8... I'm seriously a noobie...
 

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Rear Sway Bar: Adjustable (not the one thats 20mm only right?)
Why is there not a front one?
generally considered the best bang for the buck mod you can do to our cars. this is because stock, there is a 20mm front and puny 13mm rear bar. as a general rule of thumb, if you have a larger front bar, the car will understeer more, larger rear bar means more oversteer, and same sizes front and rear make the car fairly neutral. however, this will make the car more tail happy, so i would recommend attending a couple of auto-x's (if you don't already) to get a feel for it so you don't end up in a ditch somewhere :) oh, whiteline also makes a front bar, but it needs to be used in conjunction with a larger than stock rear bar and generally struts and springs as well.

Strut Bracers Front and Rear: does it matter what kind? I saw some Whiteline ones for 100ea and I saw Cusco ones for
180ea I also read a post that said GC8 didn't need bracers really...
or up to ~$700 for a genuine STi one :) basically, they're all the same and some people swear by them, others swear at them. take your pick. at the very least, they won't hurt anything. OMP also makes a good one and it can be found at primm racing

CAI: I like everything I've read about the Cobb (except that its loud... I'm not sure if I like loud..)
i've heard its good. Larry Ganz also makes one for way cheap, so you might want to check that out. any CAI should give you some extra ponies to play with, esp. up top.

Cat Back Exhaust: I'm thinkin about goin w/ the Stromung Dual tip w/ mid-pipe... is there a performance diff in Mild Steel
and Stainless Steel? (again not lookin to go too loud... just too fast)
the stromung is great, but its quite loud. if you're looking for quiet, try the STi. oh, and i would definitly get stainless or it will rust up bad. although this may be less of a problem in FL. talk to locals about their opinions.

Possibly Borla Headers in the future...
also very loud (esp w/ the stromung) but very nice gains. just make sure you get the Gen 4 headers. the rest have a serious design flaw that causes them to crack.

anyway, i hope this helps to answer some of your questions. enjoy the car :D
 

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Dude... you're awesome... hehe... thanks for the help... a couple more questions...

Cobb Vs Ganz intake:
Will I notice any real difference between the two? I mean... just driving... not stickin it on a dyno or anything crazy like that....

T or F?
My impression of understeer is: You turn the wheel... and the car goes that way with a little delay? like plowing into your turn?(when your going fast I guess)

What exactly is oversteer? The cars turns before you tell it to? (heh j/k)

So... with a mid pipe of 2.25 I could have pretty much any performance muffler and have roughly the same gains? Who makes a muffler thats good but not obnoxiously loud?

Thanks in advance :)
 

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Some things to keep in mind - first - what is your goal? Are you autocrossing? Or just street driving?

Tires are the number one go fast mod for autocrossing, then a 20mm (or so) rear sway bar, then a rear strut tower bar is a good place to start.

Exhaust - the Stromung is noisy, and the steel one is prone to rust, but that combined with an intake can give you performance gains. However the 2001 cannot use a S-AFC to tune the fuel and ignition delivery/timing, so you cannot get the most out of it. I just posted a topic about the MRT full exhaust system in the Normally Aspirated area, go check that out. Something like $583 for the whole damn thing. :eek:

Understeer is when you turn in a corner, going fast, and the car starts sliding off the road, nose first.

Oversteer is when you turn in a corner, going fast, and the rear end of the car slides out, and you start skidding sideways or spin out completely. With practice you can control moderate oversteer, and use it to corner more quickly. Too much oversteer (or sudden oversteer) and you'll spin out.

Generally I prefer a little oversteer when I autocross because I can control it and use it to my advantage to get around corners faster. Supposedly! :lol:

The front strut tower bar is not *really* needed because the strut towers are so darn close to the firewall. Nonetheless, I run the Whiteline adjustable strut tower bars front and rear.

Stiffer springs (like the H&R's available at Tirerack.com) and adjustable struts (like the Konis, also available at Tirerack.com) are a nice upgrade for Autocrosses.

The ProECM - www.ProECM.com - chip can also be added for power gains. I got one, but have not had time to test and see if acceleration times are better or not. Available at www.SubaruPlanet.com for something like $250.

My personal opinion is that intakes are all similar, and they are only "noisy" when you get on the throttle. And they just sound good when you do, that's all. I personally am going with the Cobb CAI due to their reputation and obvious quality and testing put into the piece.

Hope that helps....
 

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a good, simple way to think about oversteer and understeer is as follows:

understeer: the front tires loose grip and start to slide before the rears. this means that the car will continue to travel straight in whatever direction it is pointed and steering inputs are useless (because steering is through the front wheels which are sliding, which means that they have no traction left) to correct this, unwind the steering wheel some and, depending on severity, lift off the throttle (if you were on it in the first place) and possibly apply the brakes. this will shift weight forward, pushing down more on the front tires and thus giving them more grip.

oversteer: this is when the rear tires loose grip and slide before the fronts. this results in the backend swinging out wide, possibly to the point of spinning the car. to eliviate this, counter-steer (that is, steer into the skid) and, in an AWD car such as the scoobie, you want to get on the throttle. DO NOT HIT THE BRAKES OR LIFT OFF THE THROTTLE! this is for the same reason you want to for understeer. you will load up the front and in so doing, unload the rear, giving them even less grip.


everything else james covered quite well. and he brought up a very good point i neglected to mention: tires. if you are still on the stock RE92s, get rid of them! they suck! the car is sooo much happier even with decent all-seasons (i run Dunlop SP5000s on the street).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey you guys helped a lot... thanks :)

I still have the stock RE92's on there... but this is mainly my daily driver... I *might* get into Auto-X later... but I'm not gonna be so into it that I have 2 sets of wheels... heh... (I say that now... I might get addicted eh?) heh...

Again... thanks for sharing all your knowlege... I appreciate how easy you guys make it for us newbies... :)

Expect more questions in the future when I learn more :)
 

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welcome to the club and most importantly have fun with your car don't stress over making it faster..

i'd go with the sway bar first if you haven't done anything else.

learning your car and the benefits of awd. Learning these are critical to driving fast and driving well. I haven't been driving long so maybe it's just me but the car likes to drive and is pretty predictable when driving fast. let the car do the work for ya and you'll look good when you become good.. ;) :sunny:
 

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Welcome to the "Club"

I have the Ganzflo intake and the Brullen "quiet" Catback exhaust. It is reported that the Ganzflo doesn't produce as much power as the Cobb, but it is quieter. Brullen Catback produces an interesting sound. It is DEEP...very deep at low RPM. When you jump on it the combo of the intake and the exhaust is imperssive.

"Quiet" is not what you think. But everyone I have asked to listen to it says it is not too loud, including my wife.

If you are outside the car you hear the intake coming and the exhaust going. Inside the car you hear both.

Just for the record, I also have the N-1 lightweight pulleys and a 20mm rear sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm about to order an adjustable sway bar.... I mean... its not that the car is "slow" by any means... and its already a blast to drive... I make up excuses to go somewhere a lot heh....

I got my name on the list for a Cobb Intake... (it might like 6 mo before I actually get one) and now the only question is what exhaust to get... BTW... DEEP loud is ok... heh I like the way a V8 sounds :) that crappy "whiney loud" isn't....

ConeEater:
Do you have a pic of what your exhaust looks like? I saw that Brullen had a dual tip and a single tip... I'm lookin at a dual tip for purely cosmetic reasons... do they actually sound different?
 

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DEEP loud is ok... heh I like the way a V8 sounds
then you would probably like the stromung catback :) and with the dual tip, it looks OEM, almost. its a very nice exhaust. BTW, i don't have one, its a friend who does. anyway, don't hesitate to ask questions, as long as it isn't "where can i get altezza style lights for my car" ;)
 

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You'll hear over and over that the two best things you can do for your GC8 are a larger rear swaybar and different tires. Either alone is a huge improvement, but the combination of the two is what really rocks! You don't need two sets of tires, or need to be serious into autocross, to appreciate better tires than the RE-92s.

Since you're in Florida and don't need to worry about winter tires, if you can live with shorter tire life you can go with Falken Azenis Sports (need to slow down some in the rain with these), Falken Azenis ST115's, Kumho MX's or Kumho 712's for around $450 a set mounted, balanced and out the door. If you need longer tire life, there are quality performance tires and all-season tires from the likes of Michelin, Yokohama, Pirelli and even Bridgestone that will all be vastly superior to the RE-92s, though they may cost more than the previously mentioned, budget performance tires.

I put Azenis Sports in the stock size on my car before I changed the swaybar. Huge improvement.

Then I put on the Whiteline 18-22mm adjustable rear swaybar. This, as they've been saying on the i-club for years, is how the car was meant to handle!

Note also that the 18-22mm is often referred to as an 18-20-22mm but is in fact an 18-19-20-21-22mm. You can really fine-tune the understeer/oversteer balance with this bar.

Best of luck with your mods!

-- larry85
 

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Reece,

I wish I had a picture...sorry. I will tell you that with the Kartboy hangers it fits just where it is supposed to. I have the dual 3 inch and I think they look close to the stock WRX tailpipe. Just a little larger and maybe they stick out a little longer.
 
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