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97 Brighton, 4x4
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2,573 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am running a custom set up on my 1997 Brighton coupe and I need an alignment now because I just did a rear disk brake swap. Here is my set up.

-stock 02 Wrx suspension w/ the gc top hats in the rear
-rear camber bolts.
-Legay hubs and rear sway bar.

What should I have them give for a good DD and an occasional canyon run?
I'm kind of new to the whole alingment thing but I know I could run into problems if I take it to just any shop and don't know what I want.
 

· Registered
'99 Hybrid RS Coupe
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3,598 Posts
Many chain alignment shops get cars close to an alignment you tell them to do, but if you take it to a good place, they'll work with you to get exactly what you want.

I've got:
Megan coilovers
-2.0* front
-1.5* rear


I can dig up the alignment sheet to get other numbers if you want me too.

My numbers are probably a little too aggressive for what you want, but not far. I DD my RS and auto-x it as well.
 

· Registered
2000 2.5 RS Impreza 4 door
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4,253 Posts
I just adjusted mine to 1.75 F (stock bolts) and .75 R, 0 toe all around. May just be my imagination but turn in feels a little crisper and seems to hold grip a bit better. Still cant get oversteer without a high speed scandinavian flick though :(
 

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95,L,BLUE
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1,116 Posts
well i have the stock alignment with strut tower braces front and rear and a 22mm sway bar up front and 17mm in the rear and stock l struts front and rear and an rs front bumper and its tail happy enough for me and but if i dont catch it fast enough the car will spin though
 

· Premium Member
2000 Silverthorn Subaru 2.5RS
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390 Posts
I have a - 1.25 on the front, less than -.3 in the rear (I asked for zero) on my GC. I have KYB AGX's, ALK, and a 20mm rear bar, and just a few NA mods. On snow tires, I could get just the slightest bit of power on oversteer, from a standing start, like if I was turning left from at stop light. It was a very streetable set up, and it did not overly wear my tires. If I remember correctly, the factory alignment is almost the reverse of that, and it made a huge difference. The car is very neutral, and can be adjusted with tire pressure. If your just trying to get rid of understeer, changing the relationship between the front and rear camber will make a big difference. If you are going to be on the track all the time, it makes sense to run big negative camber. IMO, I don't think you need to go crazy with the camber to get a balanced street car, especially a fairly stock one, just need to make sure the relationship is right.

My $.02.
 

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5,165 Posts
I just adjusted mine to 1.75 F (stock bolts) and .75 R, 0 toe all around. May just be my imagination but turn in feels a little crisper and seems to hold grip a bit better. Still cant get oversteer without a high speed scandinavian flick though :(
I had the exact same settings on my KYB AGX struts with tein s.tech springs except I have -.36 total toe out in the rear so i can get major oversteer with the scandinavian flick.
 
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