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oh1 4bangr
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I Changed the shocks on my 01 sedan RS and I unbolted the brake line from the hub to get the line out of the shock and replaced it and everything and now the brake pedal just goes straight to the floor... after a few pumps the brakes finally catch. I have flushed the brake fluid and bled the system like 20 times without any luck or progress.... what should i do???
 

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2000 2.5RS, Sedona Red
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Well, Im no brake expert but generally the answer to this question is "Bench bleed the master cylinder".

I always like to ask how you bled the brakes. One person or two? Bleeder bottle? What order? etc...
 

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oh1 4bangr
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How do you bench bleed the master cylinder?

I found a DIY on here and scooby mods and did it following that, FP RD FD RP, two people, a million pumps, car off. No improvements...
 

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2000 2.5 RS Impreza 4 door
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Shouldnt need to bench bleed because thats when you are putting a new master cylinder in. Did you perhaps forget to refill the resevior with fluid while bleeding? All the bleeding valves are pointing up? Theres got to be air in the system, maybe make sure you are bleeding the corrrect way (valve closed, pump then hold, valve open, let air/fluid out, then close valve again while the pedal is held the whole time).

If all else fails a shop could probably correct the problem.
 

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oh1 4bangr
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah that's how we're doing it. But no air or fluid comes out of the valves... I think it's a lot of air too but I don't know what another way to get it out is because i've been bleeding them so many times...
 

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yeah that's how we're doing it. But no air or fluid comes out of the valves... I think it's a lot of air too but I don't know what another way to get it out is because i've been bleeding them so many times...
Sounds like something isnt going right here. Do you have air or fluid coming from the lines??? It has to be one or the other...

If you arent getting anything then you dont have the valve open enough. What I do is run clear pvc tubing from the bleeder down to a bottle half full of fluid. then you can just pump the brakes until you get nothing but fluid in the pvc line. Make sure the end of the line is submerged in the fluid so it cant suck air back in. I use that method when Im working alone.

If you're getting consistant fluid through the line then perhaps you let the fluid fall below the canister level? If it drops below the canister then you WILL have to bleed the MC. Also, just making sure the canister is full to the max makes a difference when braking. Fill the tank right to the bottom of the neck when testing.
 

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oh1 4bangr
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I tried taking the line off once and pumped the brakes and a lot of air got out until it just sprayed fluid. then bolted the bolt back in with no avail.

I think the MC might've gotten dry once... How do I bleed the MC?
 

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oh1 4bangr
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I fixed it tonight! I decided to try and bleed the brakes by not just taking off the nipple but unbolting the valve too and it worked! thanks guys.
 

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I fixed it tonight! I decided to try and bleed the brakes by not just taking off the nipple but unbolting the valve too and it worked! thanks guys.
You werent unscrewing the bleeder valve? I knew something sounded fishy.

If you need further help there are plenty of guides here for bleeding the MC and also tightening the MC tension pins. Both should help increase response and decrease fade quite a bit. (Use the search function)

Good luck!
 
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