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97 2.2 Brighton
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So if you guys check out my build thread or instgram (gc22rs) I’ve been doing a ton of chassis and suspension work plus did 5spd swap and drum to disk brake swap. Was just about to get the car aligned and heard a weird noise from my timing area. Long story short my woodruff key slot has enlarged it self almost double so my crank is shot.

So I’ve been looking at my options and would love input.(I’m only looking for 250-300whp max, car is going to be a mountain/auto x car and I’m not trying to break the bank)

Option 1:ej205 swap from jdm website. Looking at 1500+ for motor ecu wiring harness. I know this is going to end up costing nearly 3k+ And I don’t feel like getting into harness merging and all that. Also I then found tuning is limited with the jdm ecu.

Option 2: buy a used outback with H6. Found several for 1500 with higher mileage but at least I’ll have everything I need.

Option 3: buy a new Subaru crank shaft for ej20 ($380) my understanding is they are the same. Replace bearings and I figured spend the extra money on rods (not sure what ones either Manley or maybe stock Subaru ej20 ones? again keep price in mind) and either take out ej22t pistons or aftermarket ones. Also on frssport.com found a full Tomei kit for 15xx$

I like the idea of option 3 because again I’m just running a td04 I’m not looking for crazy power and I can pull the short block out myself and send it to get rebuilt and I don’t have to deal with a ton of wiring issues.. ( I did put the better oil pump and turbo water pump on my block and replaced all gaskets in head and block)

Also if I do build the ej22 I will be doing KillerB oil pan and pickup, sti yellow injectors. I already have a factory wrx header/up pipe/ td04 rotated cold side/ walbro 255kit and FMIC.

I don’t see a lot of people building these ej22 I’m not sure why?! Any and all input is appreciated.
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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471 Posts
The ej18, ej20, and ej22 all share the same 75mm crankshaft, except the 2.0 STI's, which are same same but better (balancing, coating...).

My theory is most people wanting to spend money on their engines will want to maximise displacement for a more powerful starting point, so they go 2.5L. Or they import the tried and true, rev happy 2.0. Personally, I love the 2.2.

I think a stock 2.2 bottom end with EJ20G or EJ25D heads would reach your goal, but it's not a bad idea to overbuild it. I found a great deal on Manley rods and Wiseco pistons for the 2.2, so that's what I'm doing with the 20g heads.

Honestly, I don't see the H6 being worth it unless you really aren't after much power. It's a noticeable bump from an N/A 4 cylinder, but nothing like a turbo 4. However you do get great reliability and the best exhaust sounds you'll ever hear. And if you turbo'd the H6 you would have a real beast.

Good luck, keep us posted.
:projectsti.com:
 

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97 2.2 Brighton
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62 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I just don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of wiring. Although it is 100% figured out I just don’t have the confidence in doing it. And if I’m going to spend several hundred I’d rather go with an aftermarket like a Haltech. Only good this about this car is I don’t have abs AC radio or power anything so wiring is minimal and I would like to take more out.
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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471 Posts
EJ25D heads and manifold have nearly identical wiring, everything except the Idle Air Control Valve will plug right in. I used my 1.8 throttle body for the interested IACV. Now that I think of it, with your 2.2 harness the IACV might plug right in as well.
And you'll need some kind of engine management if you want that much power in that car, so you'll have to do some wiring regardless. I'd recommend a piggyback because I've had good luck with my AEM FIC6 and it's only like 6 up to 16ish wires depending on how much you hook up.
 

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2 Posts
just a thought here. Why not have some one tig weld and fill-in the displaced material and have that woodruff key remachined? is that the only issue?
 

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Premium Member
95 L, 96 OUTBACK
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2,875 Posts
EJ22 bottom with EJ25D heads and manifold will do what you need. The EJ25D heads have the unmachined ports for water and oil too. There is a thread on how to drill them out. All of the parts needed are cheap. Though EJ22s are getting starting to get harder to find, still very available though.

If you get a stand-alone go with MS2 or MS3. Build it your self and then yank the dash to remove all the wires not needed.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,733 Posts
EJ22 bottom with EJ25D heads and manifold will do what you need. The EJ25D heads have the unmachined ports for water and oil too. There is a thread on how to drill them out. All of the parts needed are cheap. Though EJ22s are getting starting to get harder to find, still very available though.

If you get a stand-alone go with MS2 or MS3. Build it your self and then yank the dash to remove all the wires not needed.
Much easier to use just make a breakout connector from the factory ECU wiring to the MS box. THey might even have a MSPNP now days.
 

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Premium Member
95 L, 96 OUTBACK
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2,875 Posts
Last time I looked on DIY autotune they are out of the connector. So you would need to take an OEM connector from an ECU. I didnt find it that hard. There are only 20 or so wires that need to be spliced in and if you want you can buy crimp terminals for the DB37 and crimp everything. That would be super easy then.
 

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,733 Posts
Looks like you are right. No more JECS 93 pin DIYBOBs. Glad I got mine when I did!
 
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