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i just need help filling in the blanks..

OK, here's the base for my kit, courtesy of subachad's site:

WRX Turbo
RRFPR
Up Pipe
Down Pipe
Oil Feed
Oil Return
Intake Plumbing
Intake Plumbing Silicon connectors (anyone know what quantity of which sizes i'd need...?)
Custom intake from airbox or CAI (already have a JCS on the car)
Zener Diode (my car is MAF based, so no worries there...do i need to use the voltage clamp on my proECM, or is that MAP only too?)
External Wastegate
SAAB 900 Intercooler (what would change as far as piping goes if i used a different i/c?)

there's the basics...i'll have about a $2K budget left after that. :D

for gauges, i'm guessing:

A/F meter
boost gauge (but of course)
EGT gauge

anything else i should have to keep tabs on the vital signs?

not sure if i'd need:

apex S-AFC
apex boost controller
anything else electronic...?
probably pick up a turbo timer, no?

also, i'd need 3" piping from the downpipe to the backbox...what do i do in the meantime? i don't need the car to be perfect out of the box, but i do need it to be safely driveable, since i doubt this can all be done perfectly in a weekend...

another question, how does the proECM affect fuel delivery? i've heard that it pretty much takes care of fueling issues on a 5psi kit, but is that with or without a RRFPR...maybe if someone told us how the damn thing worked... :rolleyes: :lol:

-adam-
 

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Adam, I think you have basically wrapped it up, though with $2000 to spare maybe an investment in some sort of knock control system, i.e. J&S Knock Sensor, would be a good idea. You are probably familiar with these, and the brand new version is just coming out on the market now, with on boost retarded timing and fuel control, might want to check it out.

As far as the wastegate goes, use a Tial. The Turbonetics Deltagate has problems leaking pressure, causing boost pressures you don't want, as well as more said delay in reaction to controlling boost. The Tial Wastegate is a much better product, though it retails for a bit more ($300 for the 35mm wastegate) with an external wastegate is fabrication, as a tube (in this case, 35 mm tubing) off of your uppipe has to be made for the wastegate (not sure if Chad's uppipes have this done already). Of course, with this wastegate, you have quite a nice range of adjustability with boost.
Of course, you could just buy an electronic boost controller and leave the stock wastegate on the WRX (TD04) turbo, which is set to 14 psi.

I take it that you are sourcing these oil feed/return lines from iSR (www.autocaresubaru.com)? These are the lines I am using and seem to be working fine.

You'll have to choose whether you want to use a S-AFC or a RRFPR, though I personally would go for the S-AFC due to its finer degree of adjustability with the fuel curve. Of course, the RRFPR goes for around a 1/3 of the price of the S-AFC.

Planning on running the stock exhaust for now? If not, then check and see if you can find a WRX cat-back, as you will have the downpipe already and a 2.25" exhaust is quite plenty for your application. I picked up my WRX exhaust for $120, and I know you know how much some of the others cost.
;)

Zener Diode, don't need it, as like you said your car is MAF based and doesn't require a voltage signal to the ECU telling how much pressure is in the cylinder.

One thing you need to remember, is that when you attach your BOV, be sure to route it back into the intake tract, as '99 and prior MAF based Subies have a problem with this for some reason.

The stock WRX turbo's compressor outlet point toward the driver side, parallel to the ground. This is good for the SAAB intercooler, and due to its mounting to the right side of the throttle body building a charge pipe (turbo to intercooler) will be very easy. See if you can find the compressor outlet diameter of the WRX turbo, then find the intercooler inlet diameter. Once you get these two sizes, simply custom order a piece of silicone connecting hose off of, can't remember the name of the web site but Bottle does, and connect the inlet and outlet with a piece of aluminium, or even silicone tubing.

From what it sounds like, you might need some custom fabrication, so set aside at LEAST $400 for this. Then, you might want to set aside around another $100 for some gaskets (i.e. uppipe to turbo, downpipe to turbo, and maybe some others).

Graham (wow I'm bored) :)
 

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Graham said:
One thing you need to remember, is that when you attach your BOV, be sure to route it back into the intake tract, as '99 and prior MAF based Subies have a problem with this for some reason.
The MAF sensor works under the principle of knowing exactly how much air has passed into the engine. If you vent the BOV to the atmosphere, then the readings that the MAF has taken are now wrong, and the A/F ratio will be wrong as well.

By re-routing the BOV back to the intake (after the MAF of course) then you are keeping the amount of air in the system the same as what the MAF has already measured, so your A/F ratio will be correct.

Hope that helps. :D
 

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I thought the Oil Pressure gauge is kinda important too, no? Or is the the Fuel Pressure?

Heard people said I should pick that up as well; currently I got the Boost and EGT (with my TT that will show A/F)...

Thanks
 

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well shiv says that the three most important guages would be boost, egt, fuel pressure or oil pressure...lol soo since that didnt really help it still gave me a post count of +1 for some good info
 

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Personally, I run GReddy 52mm Boost (BAR), EGT, and Fuel Pressure.

Since most people don't run programmable ECU's at first (with RS-T's), a fuel pressure riser (RRFPR) is really one of the only choices for us '00-'01 RS-T guys. MY '98-'99's are blessed with the ability to be able to use the S-AFC.

The fuel pressure gauge is important if you plan on tuning your car correctly, as not knowing your fuel pressure has extremely detrimental side effects. This could encompass tuning for more fuel, or less fuel, depending on the RRFPR you choose to use. Bottom line, you can use your FP guage to tune your car, whereas the oil pressure gauge is simply used to monitor.

Graham
 

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Ah, it's certainly nice that mine is MAF, so I'd go get an OP gauge then ;)

Thanks for the info
 

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Yah Benson, you really wouldn't need the FP gauge, as its only purpose would also be to monitor. Better to have the OP gauge, as if you spring an oil leak from all the newly added oil feed/return lines, you will be able to tell and won't have to buy a new engine.

But, larger injectors, preferably RC Engineering 550cc's, would be a NICE upgrade to complement the higher duty cycle the injectors will have. I think they are around $80 a piece, and these suckers won't go static till around 450 HP, so they have some serious capacity. Oh, and yah you would only need..... one, two, three, yeah, four of them....:stupid: ........just j/k


Graham
 
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