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Lude Speed Stage two turbo kit? Or Cobb Tuning Stage 3 Power Package?

  • Lude Speed Stage 2 Turbo Kit (w/ J&S Safe Guard)

    Votes: 51 63.0%
  • Cobb Tunin Stage 3 Power Package

    Votes: 30 37.0%

  • Total voters
    81
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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on getting the Stage 2 turbo kit from Lude Speedwith a J&S Safeguard. I am not sure if thats what I should do. Turbo charging would be nice and create the car to be very fast but it doesnt sound 100% safe. The cost of the kit with the Safe Guard is $3650. I am not sure how much installation will cost (Im not installing the whole thing by myself, hell no).

A stage 3 cobb tuning power packageis safe and dependable but it costs a little more than the turbo kit and wont give as much power as the turbo charger (although it will give a hell of a lot of power) but it is safer. It comes with intake, full exhaust, power pulley kit, cam shafts, cylinder heads. It costs $3950 - $1200 refundable core charge. Installation of this product is going to cost A HELL OF A LOT of money, not sure how much, but to install camshafts and cylinder heads is going to cost a pretty penny.

Do you think I should go with the Stage two turbo kit or a stage two power package from Cobb Tunning? Tell me all the info you know on both of the products if you can.

Thank you
 

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the choice is entirely yours. i have heard that putting a turbo on the ej25 has been a real chore as far as reliability. n/a is an easier way to go for reliability but, it also becomes a lot more expensive and harder to gain the same power from it than a turbo. however, you could still go f/i with a supercharger and still use a good majority of the n/a parts available (meaning much less custom work).
personally i would take the n/a route. i think that when i blast past a rex without any boost, the thrill will be more than enough to dignify it. the cobb kit would be nice but, don't get ahead of your knowledge. if you don't know how something is doing what it does then it's probably a good idea not to get it yet. IMO it's always better to do it yourself.(if you can't put the cams in yourself, don't buy them. instead, buy the stage 2). save money by not getting the heads and camshafts and buy a flywheel, clutch kit, sti mounts, and some suspension work or something to make your ride distinct from the rest. you may not go as fast but, you can do it yourself instead of paying for labor.(or at least most of it with basic knowledge and a manual) if you need help with it just check on here or call a local shop. i'm sure somebody could tell you something if you need.
as far as the ludespeed kit goes, check around for people who have done it and see what they have to say.
 

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Either way...plan on replacing the clutch and tranny too. With that kind of power things go"pop" if they are stock.
 

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if you or anyone else goes turbo, change your clutch before you put it the turbo on, the majority of it has to come back off to get the tranny out.we put a lude speed kit on a subaru at the shop, the run definatly runs alot better(clutch slips) but all in all it was a nice kit with some nice parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
decided

well, I decided to buy the stage 2 turbo kit w/ J&S Safe guard from Ludespeed. It is cheaper, it will give much more power, and dont you just love the sound of that blow off valve:drool:
 

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Cone Eater said:
Either way...plan on replacing the clutch and tranny too. With that kind of power things go"pop" if they are stock.

Well, That all depends on how you drive. But in some aspects I do agree.
 

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2001 Silverthorn Coupe
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You would not need a new transmission with a Cobb NA package. You are not generating the torque to break gearboxes. NOW, that said, you CAN break gearboxes if you are completely stock by driving unsympathitically, and more power will just make it more likely that you will break it if you drive like you stole the car.

cheeRS,

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh, I plan on driving my car like a baby after my uncle and I install the turbo. I will never drop the clutch at high RPM's till I get my ACT stage 3 clutch. Even then I would still only drop it at about 4 - 4 1/2 at the highest. I am guessing that for a while after having the turbo on I will go into boost range slowly, like at about 4 RPMs.

Im going to have have stock exhaust, clutch, and flywheel for a while.

Anything else I should watch out for so I dont blow my engine or kill my transmission?
 

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2001 Silverthorn Coupe
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144 Posts
High ambient temperature, bad gas. These can cause detonation, your main concern. Later on yu can run into bad intercooler effeciency when your intercooler starts to be filled with splatterings of oil. (I don't know if the kit you are getting has a catch can or not, but they are necessary on a turbocharged engine if you don't want oil sneaking everywhere due to the unintended crank case pressure. Same for upping the boost substantionally in a already turboed engine)

You need to be aware of boost spikes, but it is unlikely that there will be any with the kit.

You also need to get a few gauges to keep track of what is going on. Like an EGT, boost and fuel pressure, so you can stop something before it cause damage.

There are other things, but you will probably get more information in the turbo section of the site.

cheeRS,

Greg
 

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99 2.5 RS-T
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Dude, do not... repeat do not keep the stock exhaust. You really need to up the flow or you'll be killing the turbine blades with backpressure. If price is a problem (or you're like me and can't justify spending $400+ ona cat back) go to a local muffler shop, get some 2.5"-3" piping put in from the turbo back, think about replacing the 2nd cat (~$75 for a Catco High Flow unit from Summint racing) and get a cheap straight through muffler (probably for <$100, or get a WRX take off).
 

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1997 Brighton 2.5
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I agree on axing the stock exhaust. That baby needs to breath. Hell, it'll be cheap and quick considering it's coming off for the turbo install, isn't it?
 

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'17 Impreza Sport, '15 OB 3.6R
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For an EJ25 project, I personally am an NA fan. Not that I've had the money to do anything yet, but that's what I want. Cobb Stage 2, probably. Maybe further upgrading a few of the individuals...


As for turbos in the EJ25, yes there are some inherent problems.
I think the big thing is that the 2.5L block doesn't handle FI very well, so people serious about turboing the engine swap for 2.2L heads, which... and I'm not sure why... are stronger.

Err, I think it's heads. Some part of the block. Shows what I know about engines. :run:

Though I'm sure one of the Cobb block replacement pieces will be the same deal, if not better than OEM 2.2L replacements. I assume better.

-S2-
 

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99 2.5 RS-T
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Its the 2.2 L block that they swap. The other option is to have the 2.5 L block's deck filled to increase its strength. Also our con rods are like rubber bands, and our pistons burn easier than a Marlboro. Under 5 psi with minor fuel management (SAFC, J&S + RRFPR, etc) fine... 5-8 psi, danger zone, above fuel management may work or you may start blowing things up... over 8 lbs need to look at stand alone (LINK, TEC-II, III, etc) or programable piggyback (UniChip), internals really become an issue at this point, yours may survive, they may not... over 10 lbs block, pistons, rings, rods $$$$$$$.
 

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'17 Impreza Sport, '15 OB 3.6R
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Ehhm...

Right.

What he said.

:)
 

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1998 Subaru DOHC 2.5 RS Black
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is that closed deck block the 25 out of the gc rs or is it based on the sti block
 

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2001 Silverthorn Coupe
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It was probably an STi 2.0L, or a 2.2 liter turbo block. Those motors (and the post at the time) were before 2.5 liter STi's were available.
 
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