Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

41 - 60 of 310 Posts

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
FINALLY got the car back from the shop, they did HG, got the heads resurfaced, all belts, idlers, pulleys, water pump, bunch of random little things...

only thing they didn't install thatI had in the box of parts was the rear main seal and the wheel bearing... they said extra $350 for the rear main and $250 for the wheel bearing...

I really didn't have the money so I put it off for now.. but I plan on doing the wheel bearing ASAP though...

Either way the CEL I had is still on because it wasn't related to the HG at all...

it's code P0447, I looked it up and most say the wires going into the charcoal canister get disconnected/corroded...

I just am wondering, what is the result of this? a solenoid is stuck open or closed?
Is it just a waste of fuel or is it bad for the car to run like this for too long?

I got the car back yesterday afternoon, this morning I noticed a STRONG gas smell in the car and when you get outside as well... I had the heat on full blast so I turned it down to see if that lessened the smell and it did, so I guess the smell is coming from the engine bay?

Could the shop have forgotten to do a connection somewhere or something when they put it all back together?
Or is it more likely that I am smelling it because of the CEL I have?
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
The charcoal canister is part of the evap system and shouldn't cause a fuel smell from your engine bay, nor should it affect the car's performance, but a bad canister could make it hard to pump gas properly. The gas smell sounds like a loose fuel hose, as in fuel might be dripping onto your engine block. Maybe they didn't properly tighten down one of the lines that come off of the fuel rail when they were putting everything back together.
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
thanks man, would I be able to check this out by just looking under the hood?

Also, I looked at the charcoal canister and the connector and this is what I found..



where can I buy another one of these connectors? Do I have to buy it straight from subaru or can I get one from a auto parts store like pep boys?
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
Check under the hood with the engine on. Look around the intake manifold runners to see if you can find where it's dripping.

You can have a dealership look at it, but the wires themselves seem to be OK and still connected. The CEL could be due to a bad canister.
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
that pic isn't the best but the white (lighter color?) wire is actually completely exposed... the insulation of the wire is almost completely gone...

I will try to get a better pic, sorry...
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
I know the wire is exposed and it doesn't look pretty, but I was just saying that unless that wire is cut, is loose, or the connection is rusted, the connection should still be OK and probably not causing the CEL. I would probably just clean it up and wrap it up with lots of electrical tape.
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
it kinda is, when I say insulation, I don't mean the outer black insulation I mean the insulation personal to that white wire.. I can see the white insulation ripped up and everything... I guess I will go tape it all up start the car and see if it still throws the code..

either way do you know if I can buy that wire harness/connector at a regular auto store like pep boys?

thanks a lot man, I appreciate the quick responses. I can get any answers on nasioc... I guess when you own STi's you need to work all day to pay a car like that off so no time for forums during the day LOL

but seriously, thanks...!
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
Hmmm is the wire loose? If it's loose, try to push it in and see if that fixes it. The CEL would be caused by a loose or cut wire. If it stays loose No matter what you do, you may need to splice a new connector in.
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
I think I'm gonna need a new connector but I'll try to go push it in and tape it up...

where would I have to go for that connector?
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
Without going to the dealership, I'd say try to find it from a part out car. I'm pretty sure a GD 2.5rs and wrx share this part, but might be a good idea to call up a dealership to confirm the part number between the WRX and RS and to check if they can order just the connector, just in case.

Edit: I looked around and couldn't find that connector listed individually in Subaru parts websites.
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Thanks man I found the fuel leak. Coming from one the lines you told me to look at by the intake. Coming straight off the new fuel filter they put in. I'll try to get a pic.
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
Sounds like a bit of carelessness by the shop, tighten up the clamp and you should be good to go!

The canister plug on the other hand might require a bit of wire splicing if a simple tape job doesn't fix it.
 

·
Registered
02 Impreza RS 5spd dark blue
Joined
·
651 Posts
definitely +1 on the sway bar. and 80 bucks isnt bad..you gotta remember its a name brand one. i paid 90$ for mine (20mm) brand new, straight from subaru. no shipping either cus it was delivered to my dads shop :) if you do endlinks on the other hand...i personally went with perrin spherical bearing endlinks which were 180$ (double the price of the sway bar! :O )

its definitely recommended to replace/upgrade the endlinks with the sway bar, and i believe perrin is the only one that makes spherical bearing endlinks. when i did my research it seemed like they were the only ones that really made the most difference. even though its probably negligible to human feel, i went for em anyway.

also, im riding on KYB AGX adjustable struts with H&R sport springs. i havent measured actual values, however the advertised drop is 1.5" front 1.4" rear. and honestly, i think my car sits perfect. i romp my car in the snow, and have NEVER gotten stuck (aside from slightly sliding into a ditch but that was because i was going to do a 3 point turn and started off the shoulder and didnt know there was a ditch cus of the snow. didnt slam it, just kinda slowly slid in lol) i LOVE looking at how she sits. and its definitely that much better with 17s and some nice 225s :)

edit: dont settle for the 17mm. get the 20. idk what the actual difference is in performance, but i know my car has IMMACULATE handling in the snow, and i can drift that pig like a ****in boss with a lil bit of pow pow. granted my struts and springs probably help this too, but oversteer is most directly effected by your sway bar
 

·
Registered
2002 WRB WRX
Joined
·
420 Posts
According to Oakos, a 20mm sway bar will increase torsional stiffness by 92% over a 17mm and around 400% over the stock 13mm sway bar. A 17mm sway bar only offers around a 150% increase over the stock 13mm.
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Well **** lol, I remember seeing a bugeye at a junkyard I went to before and I need this wiring harness/ connector plug cuz Subaru says they doesnt sell individual "pigtails"

So maybe I'll see if its got the rear sway still on it. If not I'll just keep an eye out for a 20mm and if I have to I'll just pay shipping for one
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Ipodwinner, its not a "name brand" per se... if I am correct FHI stands for Fuji Heavy Industries. So it is just factory bar. He probably purchased it straight from subaru just like you did. Either way your right its really no that much in reality because it comes with end links and everything.
I pmed the guy and hopefully we can meet up soon. Just sucks cuz I prob can't install it until after this horrible cold so that means I won't even be able to feel the difference in the snow until next winter. Unless it warms up for a week and then we get dumped on at the end of march. That would be pretty cool!
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Exactly what I pictured. The yellow/green wire... the one I called white... was completely severed before the harness.. the pin in the harness still had good wire so I attempted to solder a new piece of wire onto the "pin" but I was not thinking and used wayyy to much solder.. I almost filled in the pin so it would no longer slide onto the male side...

I decided to ditch the wire harness completely.. grabbed some female connectors from pep boys, cut some of the new wire I had already bought and plug em in and spliced into the existing wires.

I made sure to do the correct wire on the correct "pins"

I disconnected my negative terminal and pumped the brakes then let it sit for 10 mins. I reconnected the negative and turned her on and there was no more check engine light!

I'll get some pics up eventually...

I still need to secure and tape everything up so it doesnt happen again
 

·
Registered
2004 2.5rs-pacifica blue pearl
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
Is it necessary to upgrade the end links when upgrading sway bar to only 20mm? Every offer I get says it comes with OEM end links...
Is it okay to run the OEM endlinks for a little while and then upgrade or is that entirely unsafe and stupid to do?

Also anyone have any recommendations on lightweight crank pulleys? There are so many brands... kart boy, cobb, Perrin, grimmspeed... any one have any experience?
 
41 - 60 of 310 Posts
Top