Well at least you learned how to do it yourself (I presume) saving yourself some flow.
Nick C.
Nick C.
Motor/tranny mounts in. p. i. t. a.
G
The tranny mount wasn't too hard. It would have been easier if I hadn't caught part of the crossmember with the edge of my jack. 
But the motor mounts were a major PITA. The front bolts came right out. The passenger's side middle nut came right off. But the driver's side nut broke my 1/4" breaker bar (It's craftsman, so I'll get a new one if they still make cute little things like that). Oh, I used the 1/4" because I wanted a 6-sided socket, and that's the only one I've got that's deep enough. Otherwise I used the 1/2" sockets.
The rear bolts are the main problem. They're hard to get to. I jacked the car up and put it on stands, so I could crawl around underneath. Then I jacked the motor up a couple of inches - as far as it would go without popping the coolant hoses off. Passenger's side wasn't too hard - the Cobb intake swings out of the way and I was able to put a box wrench on it and pound with a 5 lb hammer. The driver's side is worse. I took the tire off and laid underneath the brake. Then I got a box wrench on the bolt, and held it in place along with a 6" extension (from the 1/2" socket) and pounded THAT with the hammer. Took a little while.
Who says aluminum can't take loads of torque.
Freakin' gorillas working @ Subaru.
:sputter:
At cruising speed you can't really tell any difference. But under WOT the whole car erupts and it's crazy loud. At idle the whole car vibrates with the motor.
We'll see how long I can stand it.
Oh. I was positioning the motor with the floor jack and I forgot to undo the mounting nuts - there's a major crease in my oil-pan now. Ugh.
But the motor mounts were a major PITA. The front bolts came right out. The passenger's side middle nut came right off. But the driver's side nut broke my 1/4" breaker bar (It's craftsman, so I'll get a new one if they still make cute little things like that). Oh, I used the 1/4" because I wanted a 6-sided socket, and that's the only one I've got that's deep enough. Otherwise I used the 1/2" sockets.
The rear bolts are the main problem. They're hard to get to. I jacked the car up and put it on stands, so I could crawl around underneath. Then I jacked the motor up a couple of inches - as far as it would go without popping the coolant hoses off. Passenger's side wasn't too hard - the Cobb intake swings out of the way and I was able to put a box wrench on it and pound with a 5 lb hammer. The driver's side is worse. I took the tire off and laid underneath the brake. Then I got a box wrench on the bolt, and held it in place along with a 6" extension (from the 1/2" socket) and pounded THAT with the hammer. Took a little while.
Who says aluminum can't take loads of torque.
Freakin' gorillas working @ Subaru.
:sputter:
At cruising speed you can't really tell any difference. But under WOT the whole car erupts and it's crazy loud. At idle the whole car vibrates with the motor.
We'll see how long I can stand it.
Oh. I was positioning the motor with the floor jack and I forgot to undo the mounting nuts - there's a major crease in my oil-pan now. Ugh.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
G
Saving myself some flow? Is this new Colorado lingo for $?
Yeah. It took me several hours. I expect that with a lift and some air tools it wouldn't have been bad at all, but probably $200ish to pay to have it done anyway.
If anybody ever asks for my help to install these in the future, I'm not home.
Yeah. It took me several hours. I expect that with a lift and some air tools it wouldn't have been bad at all, but probably $200ish to pay to have it done anyway.
If anybody ever asks for my help to install these in the future, I'm not home.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
