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overdeveloped beater
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9,088 Posts
Be careful

If you just slip smaller bolts in the rear to get more negative camber, you have to make sure they don't let the setting slip. I found this out the hard way in Topeka last year. I started my first run out with about -2 or 3* up front and -2 in back by using smaller bolts. The rears slipped during the run and went full positive giving me wayyy too much oversteer! This, after I thought I had torqued them to the point of stretching the bolts.

After engineering some better washers and interior "eccentrics" I got them to hold. Unfortunately, world events finished my runs for the event. I think I would have beaten the next fastest subie in my class had I gotten them right the first time.

Advice? Get the camber bolts from MRT or other sources. They have a special washer that appears to lock the knuckle position much better than what I rigged together.
 

· Premium Member
overdeveloped beater
Joined
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9,088 Posts
Yeah, there's not nearly enough camber gain designed into the geometry to worry about wearing the inside edges.

Put alot of tire scrubbing toe into the mix and it's a very different story!

Those adjustable links for the back look nice, but one can really mess up the alignment if they aren't careful.


froggert said:
i'm currently running -1.6 degrees of camber up front and -1.2 (i think) in the back. no problems with tire wear - in fact, i'm wearing the outside edges a little faster than the inside ones and am thinking of going to -1.75 up front. my car's also running spring rates ~3x stiffer than stock..

you can get adjustable link sets that let you adjust rear toe and camber. they seem to be pretty hardcore - stiffer bushings and all and not designed for most street cars.
 
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