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2002 WRX, 98' Forester,
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10 Posts
Here is what mine look like, I got the full set for $200! and they have center caps and are actually pretty damn clean! You just got me more stoked on them! I could find too much info, I don't think mine are as rare as yours but hey, I paid $200!


 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
Those are the same as my white ones, Twin Six spoke. They're the tougher ones as well with the way the spokes splay out towards the outer edge of the wheel. $200 was a killer deal!
 

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Registered
2002 WRX, 98' Forester,
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10 Posts
hell yeah! stoked level just raised mega amounts! I just need some rubbers!

And who would have guessed them to be GOLD? lol

thanks for the info and keep on posting photos! your build is insanely fun to scroll thru and day dream!
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
It's been quite a while since I've updated. Car got put on the back burner over summer while I replaced the roof on the house and continued my bad habit of having fun. No big updates yet. Once the Holidays are over and I'm back home I'll be focusing a lot of my energy on the car project. There is one thing I've been researching lately. Maybe some of you can shed some light.

One thing I've always wanted it a flat skid from the engine crossmember all the way to the T-brace/rear diff. I've considered doing it in Aluminum since I have a good source for drops from a water jet company. However I just realized that I can get 4'x8' sheets of 3/8" HDPE from Menards for <$100 once it's all said and done. (Menards link - http://alturl.com/978fr - URL Forwarding)

Another, more expensive option is UHMW which is certainly better suited for a skid plate in an extreme rock crawler situation. However I wonder if it's really necessary for the intended usage of my car. Seems to be super cost prohibitive even when comparing the price for a 1/8" thick UHMV sheet vs a 3/8" HDPE sheet.

I already have a Rallly Armor 3/8" aluminum skid plate for the oilpan/engine. I'm mostly looking to skin from there all the way back to the rear diff. I intend of fabricating a rear diffuser/skidplate from aluminum from the rear diff to the rear bumper.

Does anyone have any experience using HDPE as a skidplate/skin for the trans/driveshaft or fuel/brake lines? Any input would definitely be appreciated!
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
So there's been a mild change of plans. I was originally going to run the vf28, however I came to the conclusion it was just way too small of a snail for my set-up. Between the 2.5l block, big power heads and EWG I feel I'd just be pushing hot air at anything above 5k. I liquidated some parts I had on the shelf and stepped it up a notch. Forced Performance 71HTA on the way! I feel this is an excellent compromise between spool and peak pressure. Hoping I'll be able to hit 20psi a bit after 3k and hold it all the way to 8000.

This also forces me to go all out right from the get go. I intended on running the JDM v6 manifold initially, however the 440cc side-feed injectors won't stand a chance with the larger turbo. I have 775cc top feed injectors that will work with my 2.5i manifold. It is now crunch time to convert the n/a manifold to DBC and hope I can make the 2011 intercooler fit!

Anyone want to buy a VF-28 or a Version 6 STi manifold complete with rails, injectors and throttle body?
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
are you using the v6 throttle body with the 6 wire iacv. If so you better off with a 253 manifold. They had same throttle body, dbc and are top feed.
No sir. I'm using my OEM 251 throttle body on the big plenum/long runner manifold from the 2.5i.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
The final piece of the puzzle as far as putting the motor into the car for the last time is figuring out what I'm going to do for a clutch. I have a few options at my disposal. Which are outlined in the spreadsheet below.

Any Input would be greatly appreciated!

I've included the six speed Stage 1 HD clutch into the mix as a comparison. I know I've read a few things about clearancing the 5 speed bellhousing for the 6 speed flywheel. I have a 6 speed flywheel or two laying around so I wouldn't need to buy that. Just have it resurfaced. Anyone have any experience with running a 6 speed clutch in the 5 speed box?


Things to note:

1: 71HTA is capable of >400 Wheel Torque on e85.
2: I will not run a pucked clutch or anything made by ACT.
2: The cost of resurfacing the flywheel is estimated.
3: I am unsure if the SB clutch ratings are Wheel or Crank. Update: They are crank ratings
4: I will be beating the ever living piss out of this car, with inexperience.
5: South Bend Clutch 'requires' a single mass flywheel for the Stage 2 Endurance unit, this requires more research on my part.



I have a JDM Cusco branded Exedy Hyper Twin clutch that is in dire need of a rebuild that came with the Version 6 swap package I got my drivetrain from. Rebuilding it would be more expensive but there would be no worries about it holding the power. I imagine the the multi-disc flywheel resurface job would incur an additional expense as there is additional machining required to the towers that support the pressure plate. I can buy a new ring for the multi-disc flywheel as well. Also this rebuild would still be using the same pressure plate with an unknown past.
 

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Experimenter
Tubaru Pickup
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3,910 Posts
just use the 5 speed pull set up. The pull clutches hold more torque for the money. You dont want you clutch to be stronger than the tranny, but with 4.44's a stage 2 rated for 450ish will hold fine, just dont shock load it

and i thought only the push style turbo 5mt, like the XT's had the dual mass, and that all imprezas had single mass until 08. I may be wrong
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
I've only done a limited amount of research on the dual mass vs. single mass flywheel situation. The research I have done leads me to believe all the flywheels I have are dual mass. Of course I'm not home to do an ocular inspection. MY super brief research suggests that the 02-05 WRX flywheels are dual mass and they switched to single in 2006. Beyond that I have no idea. If the information I have is accurate I would have to source a single mass flywheel regardless, that I'm sure would need to be resurfaced. That just opens up the vortex of aftermarket flywheels which I'm on the fence about.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
Heard back from South Bend Clutch. Their ratings are at the crank.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #93
Repaired the pictures that were broken in post #3 of the heads. Also had a moment of concern when I realized that the 2008+ STi gaskets (11044aa770) are different than the 04-07 STi gaskets (11044aa642). Now I have concerns about my later block (which I believe are all the same) and my heads. I'm 99.9% positive I used the earlier -642 gaskets when I assembled the long block. However I'm not positive what year my SOHC heads are from.

Can anyone tell me if the coolant passages of my heads match the coolant passages of the earlier 251s? Photos below for comparison.

04 vs 08 Headgaskets:



My Heads - Note the 08 style upper coolant passages:

 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
Was there a thickness change as well? Have you checked?
I haven't personally checked. I did a bunch of research on the subject the other night and didn't notice any mention of a change in thickness between the two, although that wasn't really the information I was after.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
Thanks dude. I try to post anything I end up having to spend a bunch of time researching. There should be some more progress in the next few weeks. Trying to get the car started by February 16th.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
Another thing on my list is figuring out my PCV system. I'm pretty much decided on running dual catch cans. Right now I'm leaning towards the Mishimoto compact baffled catch cans. ( Amazon.com: Mishimoto MMBCC-MSTHR-BK Black Compact Baffled 3-Port Oil Catch Can: Automotive )

I'm going to run one from the valve cover breathers, potentially with a filter to outside air or into the inlet. The second would be run from the crankcase vents to the PCV valve/Intake manifold.

Question I have been pondering is whether it's even necessary to route either line back to the inlet tract or Intake manifold. The only reason to utilize the PCV valve that I have found is so intake vacuum will help to scavenge air from the crank case. Thus I should be able to route the crankcase vent directly to the PCV valve and not connect it to the rest of the intake tract at all. Incoming fresh air could be pulled through the Valve cover ports which will either be connected to the inlet or the directly filtered underhood air. I'm not concerned with metered air issues as I am running a MAP based engine management system.

This is essentially what I am proposing.


Utilizing these parts. The reason for the 3 ports (2 in / 1 out) is that there's a port on each valve cover and there's also two ports on the crankcase. Also the 3 port units are cheaper than the 2 port ones!



Any thoughts?



Is there something that I am missing?
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,723 Posts
Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
So I've decided on the Southbend Stage 2 clutch with a Fidanza flywheel. I picked up the flywheel from a member here who said the Pilot bearing was loose. Some quick research pulled up this.



I priced the Gap Filler Loc-Tite (#660) and a very small tube will be ~$14 to my door. Has anyone installed an aluminum flywheel and gone through this process before? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff and don't end up paying $14 for 6ml of something when I could pay $14 and get 50ml of something else for the same task.

****EDIT 04/06/16 - When I installed the pilot bearing it fit in the race perfectly. So I ended up not using the $10 bottle of loc-tite I bought.*****
 

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Registered
Turbo, LS swapped Impreza RS
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5,166 Posts
So you're planning to loc-tite the outer race of the pilot bearing to the flywheel?
 
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