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Discussion Starter #141
So this weekend got a few more jobs buttoned up.

But the first thing I did was to test fit one of the wheels on the car. It looks weird as the tyres are so thin, hence why they are being replaced. The wheel doesn't have the full weight on it, so the fender gap is huge. But it clears the front brakes (spec B brakes) and sits pretty flush with the outside of the fender.



I swapped out the sway bar for a B4 Liberty 17mm (stock being 14mm). You can see the difference is size below.



Painted the last wheel well and brake caliper. I have a hunch that the rear brake pads installed are for the smaller style rotor and not the 294mm rears that are on the outback. I'll look into that further at some point.



I changed out the water pump for the front facing style. It was for an EJ204. It bolted straight in with no extra passages needing to be plugged. I meant to take a comparison photo but alas I didn't.

It would have taken all of 2 minutes more to change the timing belt while I was at it, but I didn't as this has like 30,000km left on it and didn't realise how easy it would have been to do on top of the water pump. With the tensioner a quick trick I found was to put a drill bit, or I my case pop rivet into where the pin goes before releasing tension. You'll only be able to get it through two of the three holes but it stops it realising fully, making it easier to re-compress.

When I first took tension off the timing belt and battery side cam moved slightly (like 3mm). I though I should try and move it back. Yeah don't do this. It snapped back about 10 degrees. Luckily I was moving it with the breaker bar to I managed to stop it before the valves hit anything. I assume that you can damage the engine doing this. Anyway I wasn't sure of if any damage was done so I was nervous starting it again. It was fine but the moral of the story is don't do what I did.



I also added new coolant and power steering fluid and replaced the turbo vacuum line. I wanted to bleed the brakes too but was pretty tired by the early afternoon on Sunday so I called it quits.

Today I dropped in and then pick up the wheels from getting new tyres. This really was a sight for sore eyes. I don't know what it is but it's so aesthetically pleasing seeing new tyres on wheels. As mentioned previously these are Bridgestone RE003 in 235/45/R17



There's still loads more to do but the list is getting shorter. The list of major things to buy is down to 2. That being Project Lambda (which I'm still scared off) and an AEM AFR gauge to help with tuning. Everything else is optional at this point.

I also updated the mod list on the first page.

Anyway thanks for reading
Luke :)
 

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Nice progress man, she's coming along! Don't worry about your valves, my cams spin every time I touch my timing belt. Never had a problem. As long as your crank sprocket is lined up with the Mark I believe you're in the clear, hopefully somebody will correct if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Nice progress man, she's coming along! Don't worry about your valves, my cams spin every time I touch my timing belt. Never had a problem. As long as your crank sprocket is lined up with the Mark I believe you're in the clear, hopefully somebody will correct if I'm wrong.
As long as the crank sprocket is on the timing mark the pistons are all halfway down the cylinders, zero chance of valves touching.
That's good news. I was shitting myself thinking I'd done the motor in.

Just a quick update. I'll have a further one in a few days but just wanted to upload picture with the wheels. I got the wheels on today and the car moved under it's own power for the first time (with boost).
The wheel fitment is great, and it should be even better once aligned.

I'm happy with the wheels and their size. 18's would have looked great too but I prefer the meaty tyre look.





I'm fighting a bit of a coolant issue but there may be air still in the system which would explain a lot. It's a bit smoky as the heat wrap still has to burn off. Also have an exhaust leak as there nothing plugging the O2 sensor bung in the down pipe.

I'm pretty stoked with this right now hence the update. I've gotten more done but will put that in an update when the weekend is over.

Luke :)
 

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Here in the states, auto parts store typically carry spark plug non-fowlers. It's basically a spacer and you can either weld it closed or nut and bolt through it to make a plug. The correct one will thread into your O2 bung and make a nice cheap plug. Might be worth a look.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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Discussion Starter #146
Here in the states, auto parts store typically carry spark plug non-fowlers. It's basically a spacer and you can either weld it closed or nut and bolt through it to make a plug. The correct one will thread into your O2 bung and make a nice cheap plug. Might be worth a look.
Thanks for the info. I can get a plug pretty cheap but I want to put an AFR sensor in there to help with tuning and I'm planning on getting that pretty soon. I've just been procrastinating with actually buying it haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
So here's the rest of the update as I got a ton of things done this weekend.

Warning to others. Don't tighten down you lug nuts fully without wheels as this will happen. I killed 7 doing this which was luckily the amount of spares I had.



Next is another glamour shot I guess you could call it.



Finally got round to installing the JDM Legacy rear garnish. The light wiring was different so I used the Outback harness. I'll need a blanking plug as the JDM harness has four lights and the Outback only has three.



I got around to installing the rest of the head unit stuff. The antenna adapter was easy. I wanted a clean install for the mic so this was my solution. Drill a hole in a blank switch slot. Push mic in. Secure in the back with hot glue.



You can see it near the indicator stalk. I don't think its obvious and seems to work as testing so far indicates.



That was Saturday. Below is Sunday's work. First I went through and removed everything from the car that wasn't bolted down as a lot of shit has accumulated over the past 9 months. I sorted it all out later and only about 20% went back into the car.

Next was to replace the smaller boot panel as the old one has old on it. There seems to be slight differences between Liberty's (above) and Outback's (below). I knife fixed this up quick.



Next I decided to pull up the carpet and replace it as it was disgusting. Which lead me to the ECU

Do you have a pic of your ECU? There's a fair chance it'll be the same as mine which the 2002 map in Project Lambda was created for.
It only took me 9 months but I finally have a picture. Can you confirm if it's the same as yours if possible.



Comparison of the carpets. The image doesn't convey how bad the old (right) carpet was.



Only issue with my $20 replacement carpet was a small hole near the dead pedal. I did my best to patch with some of the old carpet. It doesn't look the best this close but you can't see the patch with the carpet installed.



New carpet installed. There's also a new glove box cover and drivers side B pillar cover installed, which like the carpet I've had laying around for a while now.



The rest of the interior is back in now and a lot less stuff is now stored in the car compared to the start of the day.

Here's a final shoot with my $13 sun reflector. Pretty good eBay purchase tbh.



There's always going to be more to do but list of things to do is getting shorter by the day. I haven't had much time to look at project Lambda and get my head around it yet but that's the next task. Any suggestions on good resources with learning to tune and stuff as I'm super lost when it comes to it all?

On a quick note I should be looking at a Subaru Brumby (Brat) tomorrow on my parents behalf so that should be cool to add to the collection. And of course it's got stupid high kilometers.

Anyway thanks for reading.
Luke :)
 

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hey mate car is sitting nice, i need that suspension setup!

That ECU sticker is the same as mine but I had to take the cover off and look at the actual chip inside. There will be a chip starting with "WA...."
Mine was a "WA12212920WW", other chips that are supported end with 940WW and 930WW, but there might even be more now days.

How did it sound with that exhaust? I found a BE5 rear muffler on ebay last week (the type that had the bi-modal valve thing), $95 delivered! Had to modify the hangers a bit to get it to sit right then extend the tip as it was about 120mm short. Plus the flange on it necks down to 2", rest of the piping is 60mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
My question is why are we tightening the lugs with no wheels period? Like a couple spins and move on lol
Cause I'm an idiot. I did it to hold the rotor on properly for when I was testing the clutch/gearbox/drivetrain.

hey mate car is sitting nice, i need that suspension setup!
It's a Gen 4 Liberty setup with the front top hats swapped to Gen 3. Koni struts with GT springs. I'd assumed that you don't need the koni struts to get the stance
That ECU sticker is the same as mine but I had to take the cover off and look at the actual chip inside. There will be a chip starting with "WA...."
Mine was a "WA12212920WW", other chips that are supported end with 940WW and 930WW, but there might even be more now days.
Next time I'm home I'll take the cover off to confirm if it has the same number. I'd think so as they are both Rev D cars
How did it sound with that exhaust? I found a BE5 rear muffler on ebay last week (the type that had the bi-modal valve thing), $95 delivered! Had to modify the hangers a bit to get it to sit right then extend the tip as it was about 120mm short. Plus the flange on it necks down to 2", rest of the piping is 60mm.
Wow that's way cheap. It sounded pretty good but it's still louder than it'll be later due to the unplugged O2 bung. It doesn't have the full iconic Subaru rumble due to the ELH but still has a slight grumble to it. I'll upload a drive-by video next when I get the chance to film one
 

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Discussion Starter #152
So I haven't had much time to do stuff on the car but here's what I have done.

Somewhat unrelated. I (well Mum) bought a Brumby (Brat). Only 424,000 km (260,000 miles)on it which is the same as the Outback. Picked it up for $1200 AUD ($815 USD). It has been my Mum's dream car so hence why she looks pretty happy with it. I might start a new journal on it if people are interested in the fixing of it.



Back to the actual car. I bought a USB extender to install the USB from the back of the radio in a cleaner way.



Despite what it looks like it is actually straight.



Finally did the breather port into the intake. I still need to JB weld them in but didn't get around to it.



Also cut the fender liner to clear the intercooler piping. I'm not sure if I'll box this in or not at the moment.



Installed the front spats. I still need to secure the underside but I only remembered how to do it once I was back in Sydney.


Also picked up an AEM AFR gauge for $70, still had the protective wrapping on it. It didn't have the sensor so $45 on eBay got me a new Bosch sensor, which arrived today. So that cost me $115 instead of the $300 I was going to spend.



I also got the front end buttoned up and tested all the lights, so that's all working now. I managed to pick up some dash lights today too as I blew a headlight in the GF8 and had to get lights anyway.

The other week I emailed Project Lambda Tuning and found out they won't have the Blue SSM in stock until late this month or early next month so that's a bummer but at least I can save for it in the meanwhile.
I finally think got my head around the VE map and will start making a rough base map for boost next week. Also think I understand timing now. From what I've seen you pull around 1-1.5 degree of timing for every pound of boost the engine is seeing??

I've only got a day this weekend to get work done at most so I'm hoping to get the AFR wired up and the gauge lights replaced. Maybe more but I'll see how I go. And I probably should make the airbox at some point as I keep putting it off.

Thanks for reading
Luke :)
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Just another boring update. I managed to figure out why I was having a high rev at idle. I had a leak in the brake booster vacuum hose. So every time I put my foot on the brake it would jump up 200 rpm and not go back down. This would happen until about 1900 rpm. I ended up testing the one off my Impreza to see if it was the issue and not the booster leaking, which would have really sucked.

Finally finished the grill construction. Needs a brace at the back and paint but it's installed for now. Ignore the badge being upside down. I didn't notice that until I looked at the images after.





I managed to pickup some OEM (I think) rain guards for $20. Also replaced the drivers side window seal as it was ripped.





I wired up the AFR sensor and gauge. It's in a temp locations but I'm thinking a metal plate in the recess with the AFR and boost gauge would be nice.



I also started a base map for the Volumetric Efficiency and the timing. I'd love some criticism as Ive only learnt what I have so far from random sources on the internet and I have no idea if I'm even heading in the right direction. So it would great to know that I'm not stuffing the engine up straight away.




This week I've ordered the Blue SSM and the Project Lambda License so that should get here in the next two weeks. Also ordered the bolt on 3 bar MAP sensor. So yeah tuning isn't far off. I'm hoping to get it engineered and register around late November/early December.

Thanks for reading
Luke :)
 

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You'll end up with way higher VE values than that. I was at 100 from 94kpa and 4400RPM with the stock injectors. A part from that I cant help you much more yet. I'm also trying to make a spark map too. I'll send you a copy if you want to compare?

Which map sensor did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #156
:lol: @ the badge.
Yeah not my greatest moment. Luckily it was only held on with masking tape.
You'll end up with way higher VE values than that. I was at 100 from 94kpa and 4400RPM with the stock injectors. A part from that I cant help you much more yet. I'm also trying to make a spark map too. I'll send you a copy if you want to compare?
I'll play around with it a bit more during the week to adjust to a higher value. At the moment it's a really conservative base tune as it's easier to up the values than it is to swap an engine. Yeah I'd be keen on comparing as the more resources I can see the better.
I used this to guide me a bit with the base map.
VE Tuning Basics - Official Haltech Forums
Which map sensor did you get?
I ended up getting this one.
Bosch Map Manifold Air Pressure Turbo Sensor For Vauxhall Opel Fiat 0281002437 | eBay
This was the one that you suggested like 6 months back. I've used the scalar amount you suggested for it too.
 

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Sweet, that map sensor is still working good for me. Did you mean using the offset and slope figures I suggested?

I ended up using the load and airflow scalars (for the 560cc blue injectors), from the website and they are working fairly good too.

Don't be worried about about going higher with the VE values at first. Going rich is much better than going lean!

Hatecrew's post #234 sounds like the best plan to me so far. Its also talked about here and also by HP Academy's tuning videos too. Have you watched their webinars yet??

MegaSquirt EMS Engine Tuning Information - DIYAutoTune.com
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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Discussion Starter #158
Sweet, that map sensor is still working good for me. Did you mean using the offset and slope figures I suggested?
Yeah that what I meant on that. That's good. I was umming and ahing about just getting a cheap one but I ended up getting a Bosch genuine one which I'm glad about.
I ended up using the load and airflow scalars (for the 560cc blue injectors), from the website and they are working fairly good too.
That's awesome. I still have the WRX 440cc injectors laying around as a future upgrade. How did you end up installing your injectors?

Also I have a fuel pump out of an EJ255 Forester that I've got to install at a later time. Is any scaling need for the higher flow capacity?

Don't be worried about about going higher with the VE values at first. Going rich is much better than going lean!
Thanks for that. For some reason I though going a lower percentage was better. I've now thought it through and actually looked at how the formula works and that makes sense. I'm currently upping that VE map. It's hard as I don't have any feedback from the car to know what the changes I'm doing do.
Hatecrew's post #234 sounds like the best plan to me so far. Its also talked about here and also by HP Academy's tuning videos too. Have you watched their webinars yet??

MegaSquirt EMS Engine Tuning Information - DIYAutoTune.com
In regards to the disable o2 sensor mentioned is HateCrew's post is that for closed loop? What exactly does that do?

I haven't watched the videos yet but I've had their ads showing up from months.

That link you sent is great. I've had a read through and it definitely won't be the last time.

Are you able to send across your file and I can send you mine?
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Sorry for the ton of images in advance. Got a bunch of stuff done hence the long post below.

On crjohnson's comments I redid the VE map to be much richer. I'll see how that goes one the BlueSSM arrives. I'm also going to compare it to crjohnson's map and make changes accordingly.



I had some hose heat shielding arrive so that went around the oil drain line. In the process the fitting in the valve cover broke clean off so I had to fix that. I also fitted some of the left over hose to the brake booster vacuum hose as it goes over the turbo.



I got around to JB welding the breather ports on the intake. This is now painted wrinkle red



I made a mockup of the gauge plate to go in the car. I ordered the boost gauge today which will fit in the other side of the plate.



I had run out of things to do to avoid the airbox so I tackled that next. This was done first with a cardboard template in project binky style.

Main piece cut out.



Bent and test fitted. Another hole had to be cut for the intake.



Next was the lid. Again started with a cardboard template, then cut out of steel.



Bend and test fitted over the filter



The box was then cut to suit the profile of the lid.



Then you make some brackets for the lid to bolt onto



Brackets riveted in place.



Again cardboard template then steel. This piece is for the notch around the brake lines at the bottom.



Then bend into shape ready to be fitted. (yet to be fitted though)



So this is an overall photo of it in the engine bay, This was taken before completing the lid and brackets. I've used the factory intake as I had it and it looks better than anything I could make.



And here's a closer shot of the airbox with the lid secured. It's not fully in place here either as the brake bais valve clamps the airbox against the strut tower.



I still have to join the lid to itself, mount the lower piece shown above and have to make a piece to seal the lower inter-cooler. I thinking I'll paint it a charcoal colour with a hammertone paint as the silver is to much for me.

I'm currently waiting for the project lambda software and map sensor to arrive so hopefully they'll get here soon.

The list of jobs left is getting short.
  • Finish and paint airbox
  • Make the gauge holder and paint
  • Paint the underside of the bonnet in satin black
  • Plastic weld the front bumper to accommodate the intercooler
  • Stick up and install the replacement steering wheel
  • Install the boost gauge (when it arrives)
  • Tune car (when that stuff arrives)
  • Paint car (aiming for January)
The cars in for an alignment/lookover at the mechanic on the 11th of next month and them hopefully engineering in early December.

That's all for now,
Luke :)
 

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Discussion Starter #160 (Edited)
So I figured I should get round to updating this at some point.

I painted and finished the airbox. I used my damaged GF8 hatch rubber liner to act as insulation between the piping and airbox





Finished view of the engine bay. At this point the only things left were the MAP sensor and boost gauge.



I relocated the cigarette lighter the the center console as the gauges block the way. I annoys me that they don't look level, but it's not as if you can see them anyway.



Here's the CAD template for the gauge holder



Here's the metal, cut. bent and painted.



And here's the final product. Not half bad. The gauges are level, it's just the angle making them look weird.



The gauges have been installed with a custom wiring harness that allows them to be turned off with a spare fog light switch placed next to the microphone. I've done that because it's easy to do now and will make life better when driving at night.

I also installed the Bosch map sensor.

Here's a comparison of the new (left) and old (right)



When I first installed it air was leaking through due to voids in the sensors design. I filled it with JB weld and filed it down smooth. No more leaks.



I've loaded crjohnsons base tune onto the car and it runs fine.

I'm currently not getting much boost. It will spike up to 3psi max but that's at full throttle while driving so I definitely have a boost leak. I'm hoping it's just the waste gate not having the right preload due to me changing it to a lower psi one. It's weird though as the turbo flutters like a VL Commadore but it's just not buidling boost.

In other news I drove it to the mechanic the other day (15km) and it had to issues driving (except for no boost). Apparently there's a slight power steering leak (power steering isn't my friend atm) but everything else mechanically is fine. For some reason none of the windows now work which is great given the air-con doesn't work great either.

This weekend I decided to have a break from the car as I was just over it. I'm a bit over cars in general at the moment. The power steering fluid in my Impreza decided to drain itself onto the headers last Monday (power steering still works so I'm not sure where the fluid came from) so between that and no boost I was just over it all.

I also decided to remove the deadline for getting this car on the road (end of the year). I'd been pushing myself pretty hard on getting stuff done because I can only work on weekends, even though it may not look like it and it all caught up with me and above is the result.

Anyway thanks for the read. If anyone has ideas on the boosting issue it would be great to hear it.

Luke :)
 
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