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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Dang dude, trial after trial! I understand your pain. There's nothing like that rage after the hood hits your head haha.

I was actually looking at scooped hoods for these yesterday. Found a couple Baja turbo hoods for like 880 bux... But you may have better luck than I. :blow_money_original:

Nice progress, she's getting there!

Edit: my 2 cents, I've used the stock plastic t-stat housing with a turbo manifold for a while now with no issues. They ARE butted right up together but I've got some cheapo heat wrap on both pieces. The only thing is the stock radiator hose is starting to wear out. I'll be looking for a silicone replacement.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Dang dude, trial after trial! I understand your pain. There's nothing like that rage after the hood hits your head haha.

I was actually looking at scooped hoods for these yesterday. Found a couple Baja turbo hoods for like 880 bux... But you may have better luck than I. :blow_money_original:

Nice progress, she's getting there!

Edit: my 2 cents, I've used the stock plastic t-stat housing with a turbo manifold for a while now with no issues. They ARE butted right up together but I've got some cheapo heat wrap on both pieces. The only thing is the stock radiator hose is starting to wear out. I'll be looking for a silicone replacement.
Thanks mate. Luckily enough we got the B4 Liberty (Legacy) in Australia so I've seen a few for about the $200-$300 AUD range. I have to get a new bonnet anyway but I'm still 50/50 on whether I have the hood scoop or not as I like both.

That's good news on the t-housing front. As the old manifold had no heat shield the only thing hitting was the flange. The new only should clear easy though.

if you have trouble with the thermostat cover, check out if there's any FB25's motors at the wreckers. They have alloy thermo covers that bolt straight on, point on a slight angle but should be sweet with a little radiator hose tweak.

I put up some pics here: Alloy Thermostat housing - bottom entry style - General Discussion - Suby Club
Will do. Funnily enough I actually stumbled across your photos on subyclub today while on break. I was reading a thread about a TT swapped outback and was like that user name looks familiar. Then when I was on the home page I saw the photos.

As SoCoNoHa said above I should be able the run the plastic t-housing but this seems like a better long term solution and something I'll definitely do in the future.

Have you got a build thread of your car on there as I'd love to see more photos.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I'm not sure how much bigger your engine bay is than a GC's but I tried to run a similarly shaped header and it would not fit with the radiator.
I think there's a bigger gap as they had the EZ30's in them stock. So buy the logic that the EZ30's are tight in the GC/GF's but not in the BH's I can hope it would fit.

I'd measure the BH9 against my GF8 but I don't have access to the BH9 when I'm in Sydney
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
So quick update and junkyard finds.

The headers arrived on thursday, a week earlier than expected which is awesome, not that I can install them. And today I picked up a replacement dump pipe one the way back from getting a new door for the GF8. I only had half of one because I'm an idiot.



And on the way back I stopped in at Pick 'n' Payless, the local pick and pull yard. I've had great finds hear before and today was no exception.

I managed to get a genuine Legacy GT-B wing for $55 which is a steal. Paint is shit (its the wrong colour anyway) and I think its missing the two brake light screw covers (I don't know if they ever had them). I'd been on the fence about getting one when I saw a rep for $125 locally. So this was a no brainer at that price.

Bottom photo showing the excellent paint job.


So that's for now. I'll be back working on it next week, hopefully getting the engine started.

Luke :)
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
so much awesomeness at your junkyards.
Yeah I've been lucky a few times. Sadly there's times I've had to leave stuff as I didn't have the tools or I didn't have a use for. I've come across alloy control arms, V1-V3 GC8 WRX bonnet, plenty of nice catbacks and axleback exhausts, WRX front and rear seats. This is all at the same pick and pull too. It helps to know what the good parts are too.

So after a two week break, I'm back. I'm glad I did take the break as my arm is still bruised from the bonnet incident. If it was a steel bonnet as opposed to an aluminum one things would have been worse.

So this is what I returned to. A very dusty, and very sad looking outback. You can see my trusty steed, the GF8 to the side with her shiny new door.



So the first thing I started to work on was installing the headers. Fortunately these ones fit. They take a bit of wiggling to get in place as they're aftermarket, and probably eBay.



As you can see plenty of clearence with the thermostat housing. I thing the FB25 housing in order before this becomes the daily.
I'm not sure how much bigger your engine bay is than a GC's but I tried to run a similarly shaped header and it would not fit with the radiator.
As I suspected the engine bay is slightly longer, and even though the headers are slightly different, I don't think they would fit in a GC/GF



Next was the get all the accessories bolted back on. I had removed the radiator for ease of work earlier in the day. It's looking relatively clean too which I'm happy about. I don't want show car clean, but I'd like it to not look like a 420,000 km engine.



Next was to fill it with oil, only the cheapest stuff for this nugget. I'll probably put a better oil in it before engineering and registration. As you can see my custom oil funnel, no more spillage.



Next was to install the battery to test that I've put it back together properly. And by battery I mean jumper cables to the GF8. I first tested it with the fuel pump fuse remove to get some oil around it and because I was nervous about it all.

Once that test went fine, I put the fuse back in. It took a little while for fuel to circulate again but once it didn't It starts no problem. I originally had the accelerator cable to tight so I had to adjust that so it didn't redline.



Next was to install the uppipe. This was a pain and I had to lift the engine up to get it in place. This was done with a car jack and a brick.

I can't seem to get the turbo in place as the fuel lines are in the way. If anyone knows the trick to this, I'd love to know, otherwise it's tomorrows project.



Radiator back in. I've managed the lose a hose clamp on the lower tube so another trip to the wreckers is in order soon.



So with getting the turbo to fit, I think I may end have to remove the manifold. If that's the case I paint it while its out. I'd love to paint it white, but you can get it as wrinkle paint and I don't think I could live with the finish so either red or black it is. Probably red.

So in review, I got the headers installed the the engine started. I still don't know it the clutch still works as I don't have any fluid for it. If I end up going for wrinkle paint tomorrow, I'll get some and test that next.

That's it's for today, so cheers
Luke :)
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Ah yes, the old FPR in the way of the turbo... I think you can literally 180 the fuel rails and lines on the manifold, then you just have to extend your feed and return lines across the engine bay.

Personally, I found another set of fuel lines and stole the rail without the FPR, chopped the steel lines off a few cm from the rails and connected with extra fuel hose.

Here's a stock setup next to my parallel setup. Both are upside down. You can see how I was able to relocate the regulator out of the way.


Also, are those headers for a FB engine?!
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Ah yes, the old FPR in the way of the turbo... I think you can literally 180 the fuel rails and lines on the manifold, then you just have to extend your feed and return lines across the engine bay.

Personally, I found another set of fuel lines and stole the rail without the FPR, chopped the steel lines off a few cm from the rails and connected with extra fuel hose.
Cheers for this info. I figured I wasn't the first person to have that problem. I do like the look of the the custom one. I'll see if I can bend the lines out of the way first, then rotated if that doesn't work but it's a good third solution.

Also, are those headers for a FB engine?!
Nah, they're just aftermarket EJ ones. I don't even know of FA/FB ones would bolt up. A low mount turbo would be awesome though.

Today I didn't get much done. I was aiming to get the manifold of but I didn't have time as I had other plans. I get bleed the clutch and checked that it would engage by stalling the car and that was all fine.

So next weekend the target is to get the manifold off and the turbo fitted so I can start with oil and coolant hoses.

Luke :)
 

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damn those headers are close to the thermostat outlet. Not use if i mentioned but I also had some 10mm thick flanges laser cut to space my manifold 10mm out. It helped a fair bit.. Also how close to the sump are those pipes? Might need to put some wrap on the pipes?
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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470 Posts
Heat wrap the headers and the t-tstat outlet, an they can be touching. The radiator hose will deteriorate over time, I'd recommend a silicone one.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
damn those headers are close to the thermostat outlet. Not use if i mentioned but I also had some 10mm thick flanges laser cut to space my manifold 10mm out. It helped a fair bit.. Also how close to the sump are those pipes? Might need to put some wrap on the pipes?
Yeah it's a lot closer than I'd like. I thought about spacers but I don't like the idea of them. Don't know why.
There was plenty of clearance, I could still fit my hand between the headers and the sump.

Heat wrap the headers and the t-tstat outlet, an they can be touching. The radiator hose will deteriorate over time, I'd recommend a silicone one.
Yeah for sure. Before this car hits the road I'll be replacing the t-stat housing with a FB one, replacing the hose with a silicone one, and wrapping the header to the uppipe. That's still a while off though, but it will be done.

So this weekend was time to fit the turbo, and that meant dealing with the fuel regulator.

First things first the engine bay needed a clean. This was done as I loose sight of what I'm doing and feel terrible about the project if I feel like it looks terrible. So I showered everything with a can of de-greaser and then hosed it off to get the leaves and dirt out of the way.



Next was to remove the manifold. This was easy except for all the wiring that needed to be unplugged. And the plugs for the injector were being dicks.



One it was out I taped over the inlets to stop any dirt/water getting in there. You can see the grime that's built up over the past 424,000 km. I cleaned it up a bit later as that's just what I do.



So in a previous post SoCoNoHa suggested some great ideas, which I held as backups as I didn't like the idea of rotating it, and I'm to lazy to make my own right now. So I played around with bending location of the regulator a bit. I cut a mounting tab off and then pulled the regulator closer to the manifold, pushed it down, and rotated it so it sat under the turbo.

Modified item below



Doing this means that I have to loop a bit of fuel hose around. I might see it a can cut and flare it so the line doesn't have to loop. Any ways to flare it without the tool?? or do I even need to flare it or would the clamp hold it??


Before paint I cut off one of the injector cover plate mounting points to allow for more space around the turbo inlet.



Then I panted the manifold. Call me a ricer I like the red.



It's basically an STI now right? It's just placed there as I wanted to let it cure fully before handling it and mounting stuff. The downside to this is that I couldn't do anything else for the rest of the day. Oh well



I realised that I forgot to upload a photo of the turbo in place, but you can see it hiding in the last photo just behind the manifold. Next step is oil/coolant to the turbo, after reinstalling the manifold. Then inter-cooler piping.
I'm looking at 2.25 inch piping. Is that an okay size?, also do I leave the piping a metal finish with black silicone joiners or go red piping with red joiners. Decisions! Decisions!

That's all for now, if anyone has any suggestions with piping size/colour or any other aspects of the people I'd love to hear them.
Luke :)
 

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'01 RS+t STM
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If you're using a top mount intercooler, the only hose you're going to see when it's installed is the one to the throttle body which is about three inches long. A fabricator friend made the Y for my intercooler, the factory pieces won't work as the DOHC manifold's throttle is spaced differently.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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156 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
If you're using a top mount intercooler, the only hose you're going to see when it's installed is the one to the throttle body which is about three inches long. A fabricator friend made the Y for my intercooler, the factory pieces won't work as the DOHC manifold's throttle is spaced differently.
I'm planning on going front mount, because I'm still not sure if I want a turbo or smooth bonnet, and I'd like a front mount. Also I like making my life as painful as possible as it's know to be a pain to install a front mount on these cars.
 

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ill be going front mount on mine, 450x300x76 and run the 2.5" pipes under the radiator support bar then up. Really hoping not to cut holes anywhere.. You?
I'll be cutting a fair bit of thin crap off the rear of the bumper support, thats about it i think
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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Wow, I'll have to take a closer look at the rails on my ej251, compared to the older models your FPR sits WAAAY off the rail.

You should be good without flaring, I haven't had any leaks except for when I forgot to tighten a clamp.
 
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