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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the opportunity to get my hands on a '00 Silver RS w/ 31k miles for $11,000. I'm probably going to to go call the guy in a couple of hours. Is there anything that tends to be a problem that I should look at? I did a KBB and the price they say is ~$15,000.

Oh, and here is what the ad says: Subaru '00 RS. 31k, silver, sunroof, CD, keyless, has light hail damage, $11,000. Must Sell. Phone Number

Key things that are missing in my opinion: slushbox or 5 spd?, "Light Hail damage" how much is light?, and is it 4dr or 2dr.

You guys think I should go for it? (wait I already know the answer to that one):biggest:

Ben
 

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Light hail damage could mean dents in the roof hood and truck.

Not cheap to fix.

Go look at the car and take it for a drive make sure that the engine is cold before you start it for the first time so that any noises will be amplified.(60k warranty so not a big deal)

Take it for a nice drive and see if it makes you happy.The best way to see if someone cared for the car is to pull out the air filter.If they were willing to keep that clear then they care.
 

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While there are not a ton of 2.5RS's out there, I'd hold out for one that has not been damaged like that. I suppose it would depend on how bad the damage is. I would wonder why the guy didn't have the car fixed after the insurance settlement...


/bill
 

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OmahaRS said:
Oh, and here is what the ad says: Subaru '00 RS. 31k, silver, sunroof, CD, keyless, has light hail damage, $11,000. Must Sell. Phone Number

Key things that are missing in my opinion: slushbox or 5 spd?, "Light Hail damage" how much is light?, and is it 4dr or 2dr.
Wow that is a hella good price! I definitely second your concerns about how much is 'light' hail damage, the transmission type and the number of doors. If the damage doesn't look all that bad and its a 5speed coupe, I'd say go for it!:D

Just be sure to give the car a really extensive review. Some of the things I'd look for would be:

- Check to see if all the body lines are straight
- Drive in tight, slow looping circles and listen for any clicking coming from the CV shafts. Visually inspect the cv shaft joints
- Inspect the motor for any massive oil leaks, things out of place or undercarriage damage
- Make sure all the electrics work
- Check out the airfilter like the one guy said, I think he made a good point


I'm hoping everything turns out well for you, at $11k it sounds like a good deal.
 

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I wish I could find a deal like that! :( So long as it's in good condition, that is. I would like to say welcome, as I see you only have 1 post, and I think it's cool that you signed up to get our opinions! :D Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside! :biggest: I agree with all the others on what to check for. You might also want to check the condition of all the fluids you can access. Things like oil, brake fluid, antifreeze, power steering fluid, etc. I would say check the tranny, but I understand the dipstick is hard to reach on the RS's w/o removing the airbox. GOOD LUCK and let us know what happens!:)
 

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'00 2.5RS coupe (9/01-1/04)
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Assuming that all the mechanical stuff is OK (check the underside to see if he's messed it up by off-roading it...), I'd say get it.

A carbon fiber hood costs $750 + shipping , and you wouldn't have to paint it if you didn't want to. http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=114070

Also, someone is in the process of making a carbon fiber trunklid, it will cost $500.
http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=151751

For the $4000 you're saving over blue book pricing, you'd still have a couple thousand to spend on fixing the roof and painting the entire car.

Ask the seller if he minds if you take the car to a mechanic or a dealership and have it checked. This might cost you $50-100, but if they can warn you about something that's seriously wrong with the car, the peace of mind will be worth it. If the seller isn't comfortable doing this, he's probably trying to hide something.


Good luck,
-scott-
 

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if you have the mechanical know-how and tools, i would recommend doing a compression test on any used car you are interested in. this will tell you the general state of health of the engine. also, about the air filter "test", note that it should have been changed at 30k miles, so it should be quite clean.

if this doesn't pan out, i know a guy from omaha, Jon Simmons (omahasubaru on the i-club) who is selling his BRP 99 with a few mods on it. its in very good shape and a very nice car. it won't be as cheap though but worth considering potentially.
 

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jetfan8178 said:
Go look at the car and take it for a drive make sure that the engine is cold before you start it for the first time so that any noises will be amplified.(60k warranty so not a big deal)
This is my mantra. Go early in the morning, open the hood, and put your hand on the exhaust header. If it's at ALL warm, then the owner started if before you got there, which means it will not start when it's cold.

So here are some tips I like to follow:

I personally look for an engine that is "honest" dirty - a years worth of dirt and grime. Clean engines mean they are leaking like crazy and the seller steam/checmically cleaned it to hide the leaks.

Look under the hood at the inner fenders. Notice any welding? The car's been wrecked.

Standing at the front/rear of the car, line your eyeball up with the side of the car and look down the entire side of the car at once. Does the paint on each panel (fender, door(s), quarter panel) have the exact same shine? If not, one panel has been re-painted, also indicating a wreck.

Check the back side of each wheel. If it looks like liquid has been dripping down and running across the tire, the brakes are leaking fluid. (This is unusual in a car with disc brakes or less than a few years old but....)

Has the factory radio been replaced, or does it look like the panel has been removed, a new stereo taken out, and the factory one put back in? if so, crawl under the dash and see if the wires were hacked, or do they use a harness? Whack job = stay away.

While you're under there, check the other wires. This may require removing the udner dash cover with a screw driver - bring one - and make sure no other wires are cut. Especially around things like the fusebox, headlight switch and center console. Favorite places to wire in accessories.

Do all the electrical accessories work? All headlights, blinkers, console lights, wipers, horn, cigarrette lighter (often overlooked) etc? Push ALL the buttons! Something broken means electrical problems. Those can be a pain to fix.

Does the car smell musty, or are the carpets damp? Especially in the trunk, or at the foot of the front passengers (windshield replaced with a bad seal = leaking through the glass, down the inside of the firewall, and across all those nice electronics like the ECU and fusebox.) Trunk leaks are often caused by being rear-ended.

Is there a spare tire, jack, and lug wrench?

Are all the seatbelts in place in the rear seat? If not, someone may have removed them to do some fancy amp install, cutting holes in the fuel tank in the process. I've done that before! Oops!

Are the factory speakers installed? If not, check to make sure the wires are not cut. Also points to future electrical problems due to an amateur stereo installation.

Are the tires worn evenly? Bad alignment could also be a sign of a wrecked car.

Do the doors close straight? Also a sign of a wreck if they do not. (On my car you might not notice that the drivers door is ever-so-slightly off - the bottom of the door does not come all the way up to the body, but the top of the door does. It's because I slid into a snow bank at about 15mph, and it apparently bent the car a bit. Subtle, barely noticable, about 2-3mm off, but it's a clue to my car's past.)

Check the coolant. You know what it should look like. Plain water, or funny stuff in it means engine problems.

Have a shop do a leakdown and compression test - that will tell you worlds about the car. Well worth the money unless you are planning on scrapping the engine anyway!

Hope that helps. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First of all, thanks for the tons of advice. I think you guys have suggested everything except for tearing the engine down, tearing open the transmission, and checking the position of every weld and bolt in the car.

I haven't had a chance to go out and see the car yet. But here is what I found out from the guy on the phone: It is a coupe and it is a 5 spd. Thats the good news. The hail issue is interesting. he says there about 6 barely visible dents in the roof, and a couple barely visible ones on the fenders. I forgot to ask the guy why he didn't get them repaired, but it might be that if they were not visible he might have just taken the insurance money and spent it on other things. The one other thing is that it has been smoked in and I'm not a huge fan of cigarette smoke.

The ironic thing is that I was at BK about 2 days ago and in the parking lot across the street sat a 2dr, silver RS. If those two are the same ones I didn't notice any hail damage on my several slow drive-bys.

Oh and for the entire Carbon Fiber hood/trunk thing, I might do it eventually (if I got the car) but it would not be high on my list of mods.
 

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moss said:
Cigarette smoke will be very difficult, if not Impossible to get out of the car, if you don't want the smell, don't buy the car.

Keith
Actually, I've found that if you don't mind driving with the windows down a lot, maybe for a few weeks in your case (lifetie smoker in a car), the smell dissapates reasonably quickly. I've bought a few smokers cars, and Amy smokes in my RS on a regular basis, and in the case of the RS all it takes is a day with the windows down. And the stereo up! :biggest:
 

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wow

Holy crap, you sure don't mess around James. That's very insightful. Thanks for the perspective. I'll be sure to bookmark this thread.

I second the motion to have a look at omahasubaru's RS. From the pictures that I've seen, and from what I've read it seems like a good car that's in excellent shape.
 

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On the smoking issue, use a product from a pet store called Nature's Miracle, or similar. What's in it is enzymes that "eat" the smell, and evaporate it away. At least that's the way it was explained to me. I took a chance (at 30 dollars a gallon), and it worked great in my house.

By the way, the house had been smoked in for about the last 17 years, to the point that all the ceilings were totally yellow. On top of that multiple pets in the same time had wizzed all over the carpet bad enough that it soaked through to the subfloors. Smelled so badly I didn't live in it for a solid month after I took possession. One day of the Nature's Miracle cure, and I moved in. Oh, don't hang around to smell this stuff evaporate. It really works.

I guess I'm trying to say, "Just buy the car for that price, and DO NOT worry about the smell."

Tell you what, email me if you decide not to buy it. I've been looking for an RS forever, thinking the price would come down with the new model being out. NOT! It's stayed the same, or maybe even gone up slightly since then. I'm about to bite the bullet, and pony up the pennies I need to get into AWD. First good snow here in Indy, too. DAMN! I should have bought the first one I ever saw on the lot?

Streetman
Who's never been accused of being "short-winded"
 

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I think you guys have suggested everything except for tearing the engine down,
see, this is the beauty of a compression test. its can tell you the state of the piston rings, the piston, the valves, the valve seals, and the head gasket all very easily and non-invasively.

:lol:mad:streetman. haha, you tell everyone about those enzymes, huh. i thought i was special :lol:
 

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Last I checked, Nature's Miracle was specifically designed to get rid of pet odors, specifically urine. It just happens to have a nice fragrance as well. I should know, I've got a Great Dane that I had to house train! :lol:
 
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