As a point of clarification, you should have far less issues than I did (if any) If you're running stock offset and stock sized tires (for an RS - 16x7 +53, 205/55-16). I'll edit my post for future reference. That extra 20 mm of tire makes a big difference.
I bought the front camber plates, but for the back I cheaped out and got the camber bolts.
If the V1s are anything like the V2s, the rears are slotted in the upper hole. You should
not use an aftermarket camber bolt in that case, just slide the knuckle around until you get the desired camber and lock it in place with the factory bolts.
The trick to get more clearance (if needed) is to use a camber plate to "pull" the entire shock body inward, then use the slots (or the bolts if they're not slotted) to set your desired camber.
So, basically you are saying that if I start hear crazy rubbing noises in the back, just adjust to 0 camber. That sounds reasonable, since then I would have the snow tires on.
You should be able to check for clearance before even dropping it to the ground. The wheel's position relative to the shock body doesn't change, so if it doesn't fit then, it won't when you lower it to the ground either.
Not sure what spring length is default on KW V1, but, it's good to know I can change it to something that fits better.
They will most likely come with KW springs, in which case you can look for some hyphenated markings on the coils somewhere. I think it's the spring rate in N/mm and free length in mm. They're 60 mm ID springs should you ever feel the need to swap them out.
Last question: what's this 14.5" and 13.5"? Distance from where to where ? What's the stock distance ?
Wheel center to fender. It's the least ambiguous measurement for ride height.
^^ What he said (unless you've totally hacked/cut up your fenders).
