Thank you. Although it may be harder to find I'm sure it's easier to find all the nice parts we don't have here.
- Noticed a few things in my edits. What I see in app changes once the file is sent out. I guess in the future I'll go lighter on my edits so they appear as I'd like them too. I may rework some of these when I have more time.
Trouble shooting has begun. I'll take the manual and break it down day by day. I'm doing it in such fashion to avoid any frustrations or traveling down the rabbit hole with one thought. Each day I do some testing (in my mind) it will be approached with a fresh set of eyes. It will take longer of course, but no rush.
DIAGNOSTICS FOR ENGINE STARTING FAILURE
CHECK MAIN RELAY
1)Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
2)Remove the main relay.
3)Connect the battery to main relay terminals No. 1 and No. 2. wired up a lead from the battery and split it once inside cabin to ensure T1 & T2 would see batt. 12v.
4)Measure the resistance between main relay terminals
NO. 3 - NO. 5 Less Than 10? Yes
NO. 4 - NO. 6 Less Than 10? Yes
Conclusion: at this point main relay can be ruled out.
Looky here, still have popped the crank pulley or center timing cover off but It seems the timing may have jumped.
let's hope I'm really lucky
- Present Time
I have decided to build engine B for this car as well. I'm being driven insane. It will be a freshly assembled EJ20. The crank pulley won't come off and I've tried my darnedest. Logic, my free time is not so free right now, making my window of opportunity tight. If the motor has to come out, may as well drop another in. As for the engine coming out, it will be leak tested and if everything is alright a new belt and OEM tensioner will be installed and the engine included with the sale.
....which leads to these updates. Used USDM EJ20 I received in a trade for JDM fenders.
nooice.....owner claimed the engine had bad head gaskets. Didn't bother me one bit as the engine will be bored .020 over.
Cut wire shot processed factory rods, AKA shot peened. Come Monday I plan to let Bob at GE handle the machining.
Did you try the ol' 'Wedge the breaker bar under the frame rail and bump the starter'? I've used that many times on stuck crank and cam pulleys, works a treat. I'll
Make sure the fuel pump is disco or something so it doesn't manage to fire while bumping the starter. If your luck is anything like mine, that'll be the one time it fires right up.
Also impressed that you got the crank position sensor out without gouging the housing while digging out the twisted, broken remains of what was once a sensor. I don't think I've ever managed to salvage one from a used engine.
- Rob: That is a ton of work. Since I've found a broken tensioner I've decided to do a new engine and go from there. Once the new engine is in, if I still have a no start issue, I'll get back to the wiring portion.