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2001 Coupe
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1,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #281
UPDATE: Winterizing, some Brighton work and getting used to the new digs.

It's cold. It's snowy. And Ohio uses salt on the roads. Adds one step to the winterizing project for me.


One of those ornate frozen patterns while warming up. Welcome to Ohio Aesthetect.



Along with the normal cold weather prep, I have used a product called LPS-3 for many years. It must have been something my dad used at work years ago as there always used to be a can laying around. LPS makes some really good products including other rust inhibitors.

This one (3) is an aerosol spray, stays tacky and is supposed to be self healing in inside environments. It's not cheap, and can be hard to find. I have had pretty good luck at Ace Hardware. I spend about an hour doing this with a car I care about. 2 cans will do a car the way I describe below. They were 15 bucks and change last time I bought it.


Even if it’s not bitter cold, keep it warm so it sprays nice and loose instead of goobering up.



Goes on thick. Real thick. Thicker than snot. More like the cumshot after being dehydrated and sick for a week. Same color too. Everything you see in the picture below is clean, rust free, non-fubar parts to demonstrate how thick this shit gets.



I fill the creases at the bottom of the fenders as well as the rest of the fender that’s exposed.



I know it looks gross, but it's technically not made to face the abrasion that the bottom of a car faces so I lay it on thick and it will hold up for the winter.

I also run a strip across the bottom edge of the fender.



Then wipe the overspray off.



In the above pic you can also see a light line of undercoat spray Buurma put on the lip of the fender before I was the owner. Thanks buddy.

I crawl under it and spray anything bare that I can find. Jesus bolt, both sides of the trailing arms, trans mount bolts, strut bolts… everything. It’s safe on plastic, rubber and paint so you can’t really go wrong. I take my time and pull the interior of the trunk to spray the inside of the famous rust traps, spray a shot in side each door and in the back of the front fenders from inside the engine bay.

I have done many things in the past... painting the underbody, oil spraying, using cans of "undercoat" and even smearing axle grease on stuff to keep it from rusting. Most of those things don't work and become a pain to deal with later on. This stuff stays soft, is self healing, and will come off with a mild degreaser, so you can work it right back off in the spring. Ready for some winter hooning.


On another note, I have loved the new shop so far. It's not as nice as the old days where it was right outside the fire door... but the space itself makes up for it.



Bent up a little bracket for the new coolant reservoir finally.



The Brighton is airborn and the front suspension is off. I got some used knuckles with good wheel bearings and axles so I'm swapping them out.

The lower ball joints were shot on the new knuckles and one was a major pain. Put the new workbench to good use holding the knuckle for me.



5 lb slide hammer and some muscle yanked the worst balljoint I have ever seen out.





The hope is to get the Brighton back to "Beater with a Heater" duty so I can park the RS for a while. I have some work to do:


-I think the lightweight flywheel is coming out. I don't like it. Period. Love the quick rev-match but hate everything else about it. I am biased toward leaving the line in v8's with twice the rotating mass or stock Subarus with cable clutches though...

-I'm considering dropping the trans for the clutch change and that's also the perfect time to swap the new exhaust on and do the transmission mount that's been sitting around to match the Group N motor mounts.

-The SRS-30 reflash will go in, most likely, before it goes back to Bill.... if it goes back to Bill at all. I have been struggling with idle and misfire codes, but am thinking the flywheel will fix most of that. I also think my exhaust system will go CEL free. We'll see.

Anyway, I'm not enjoying the car for the above reasons. Kind of pissed I can't get it in to fix it all asap and am still busy as hell at work. It could be worse. I could have hit a deer.

.
 

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2001 Coupe
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1,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #285
Thanks for the radiator and fans they work great! :banana:
No problem man. Glad I could help out.
That's the story of this car. If you read up at the beginning of this saga I thought I popped a hole in it.
Purchased fancy aluminum one which got destroyed in shipping.
Paid an arm to have it fixed and flushed.
All to find out the original I gave to you with your 10 dollar fans works great.
I bet I dollar this aluminum one ruptures like the Hoover dam and either wrecks me or overheats as that's my luck.

Anyway, now you know why there were about 15 layers of cardboard around that fucker.
 

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04 GDB 2.5RS
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1,373 Posts
I have had to literally jump up and down on a pipe wrench to get a balljoint out of a subaru knuckle before, heat it up jump, heat it up jump....it was straight exhausting lol
 

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ALL THE STI PARTS
01 RSTI w/07 EJ257, Brembos
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1,813 Posts
[It looks] more like [a] cumshot after being dehydrated and sick for a week. Same color too.
You know when you read a review of something and you say to yourself "man, the author of this review really painted that picture vividly for me!"

That's what this was for me. :rotflmao:
 

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Registered
2001 Coupe
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1,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #290 (Edited)
heat it up jump, heat it up jump....it was straight exhausting lol
They can be a pain in the ass for sure. I can't wait until one of the Subaru balljoints I have replaced is removed by someone. Want to see if all the never seize helps after a bunch of years and abuse.

You know when you read a review of something and you say to yourself "man, the author of this review really painted that picture vividly for me!"
That's what this was for me. :rotflmao:
That's what I'm here for. Just glad to know someone actually reads all my babbles.

My new neighbor and moped gang member is having trouble getting used to it. Just moved from Northern California. He had no idea the cold water out of the "cold" side of the faucet could get any colder. No idea what laying on cold concrete is like when wrenching. No idea that all the critters you don't want around your car come inside when it gets cold too.

No worries though man. You'll learn to love it after your first 15 minute continuous snownut.
 

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the hard way
1972 240Z
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10,462 Posts
My new neighbor and moped gang member is having trouble getting used to it. Just moved from Northern California. He had no idea the cold water out of the "cold" side of the faucet could get any colder. No idea what laying on cold concrete is like when wrenching. No idea that all the critters you don't want around your car come inside when it gets cold too.

No worries though man. You'll learn to love it after your first 15 minute continuous snownut.
:lol: the cold knuckle wrenching is probably what scares/saddens me the most, but i wont even have a garage/driveway at first anyway. trying to get some forward thinking maintenance done before i go but time is quickly running out on me... wishin i had time for a remote start especially. lucky i already have winter wheels/tires from rallyx. but in the end im gettin mentally prepped, ready for something different. hopefully the job is everything i hope it is and im able to find some females to keep me warm at night, ill be alright. just gonna hibernate and save money for a track car :D


snownut, took me a minute, but i got it hahah
 

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2001 Coupe
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1,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #292
UPDATE: The list.

I was thinking about my to-do list and decided it was time for one of these.

-10.55:1 2483cc ej251 Up from 9.89:1 2457cc. I think.
-Extensive head, intake and throttle body flow work with lots of fresh OEM parts. MORE INFO HERE FLOW BENCH WORK HERE AND MORE HERE
-One-off port-matched Teflon intake manifold spacers. MORE INFO HERE
-Delta 1500 regrinds.
-Balanced rotating assembly.
-Whitchhunter flowed injectors.
-Ceramic painted intake manifold.
- SRS-30 I speed reflash (to go in after updates)
-Exedy lighter flywheel and “stage 1” clutch.
-AEM warm air intake (to swap for Ganzflow in the spring)
-Genuine Borla, stock cats, 3 inch catback and watermelon shooter (to swap for scoobysport asap)
-One-off crankcase oil catch can. MORE INFO HERE
-07 wrx rear sway bar.
-03 wrx wheels, wrapped in Continentals .
-One-off DIY super tall short throw shifter.
-RalliTec plug wires.
-DIY Grounding kit.
-Buurma racing light bar and Hellas.
-Amber corners.
-JDM rear spats.
-JDM flat fuel door kit and JDM fuel cap.
-04 wrx black on black seats front and rear.
-03 wrx wheel.
-Rally Armor rock stoppers.
-OEM in dash NAV setup. (Swapped for full sweep mechanical gauges)
-Stainless brake and clutch lines.
-Old school Visteon Radiator. One-off over engineered catch can.



To do list:

Finish cat pipe.

Trans removal – Swap lightweight Exedy flywheel for lightened stocker.
Replace stock trans mount with Group-N
Install new exhaust.

Reflashed ECU install.


Install Gary’s Garage purchased “cheap strut bar”
Possibly use drivers side for home made master cylinder brace.
Possibly use passenger side mount for mounting Barbie catch can.

Finish one-off intake including torquebox/Ganzflow elements.

Decide between h6 and wrx rear brakes and do a swap on all 4.


And... because it's illegal to have an update without a picture: Moped gang shop shenanigans with gang member Jay-Son.


yo.
 

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Modsterdomus
2000 STM RS Sedan 5spd
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7,850 Posts
Oh shit it's over!

Idle at 750? Is that normal or a result of the higher compression?

I really expected your compression to be higher. I think you need to get it on the dyno just to see what the quantitative improvements are. That was a lot of work i would love to know the net gains.

I can't remember at this point, did you see significant difference between flow before you port/polished the heads and after?
 

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2001 Coupe
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1,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #295
Oh shit it's over!

Idle at 750? Is that normal or a result of the higher compression?

I really expected your compression to be higher. I think you need to get it on the dyno just to see what the quantitative improvements are. That was a lot of work i would love to know the net gains.

I can't remember at this point, did you see significant difference between flow before you port/polished the heads and after?
750 was a trial. I'm up to about 900 now looking for it to stop hunting and not throw misfire codes. More on that below the next quote.

Although I originally thought I was looking for compression, I quickly changed my mind. I'm happy with where it stands numerically after the hone and deck after reading the gains that higher squeeze made on all out race motors. Definitely didn't fit this car and my intended use.

Why did you think it would be higher? You know these 10:1 motors aren't really 10:1, I'm sure. And I didn't end up taking much off the heads or block.

The flow numbers showed huge improvement in both sides of the head. What that means in the real world.... I have no clue yet. Worst part is I didn't bench them before so all I had to go on were some old Cobb files and a lot of journal entries. The numbers are in the pictures, if you can look outside of work sometime or I can email them to you if you want. And I'm sure I'll have it on a dyno eventually.


Why are you removing a Exedy LW flywheel and putting the stock one back in?
I was originally hoping to be one of the few who get away with cam grinds and a lightweight rotating assembly without a pulsing idle and rampant misfire codes.

I wasn't so lucky.

I'm trying all of the tricks I have read about here to try to combat these symptoms. One option recently made available is a slightly refined misfire detection, among other things, in a reflashed ecu.

I would be willing to keep fighting it and possibly get my reflashed ecu upgraded if I liked how the flywheel drove. I simply do not. And yes, 99 percent of the population with this flywheel love it.
 

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2001 Coupe
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1,256 Posts
Discussion Starter #296
UPDATE: The best 150-bucks I have ever spent. Warning: minimal Subaru content.

Went to Wisconsin for work last weekend.

Purchased this shitbox basketcase:



Spend 15 minutes airing up the tire, adjusting the carb and getting it running.

Then did this:

Let the moped gang shenanigans begin.
 

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2005 Impreza Silver
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422 Posts
Hey about your ecu/cels would reflashing your tcu with a higher knock tolerance help..... ? I could so do that with my tactrix but I don't know what your using for flashing. I typed tcu but I ment ecu but for some reason my phone won't let me fix it.
 
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