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JO5H's Hellacheap Kitchens Thread

125K views 409 replies 78 participants last post by  bue car 
#1 · (Edited)
I finally have an Impreza! I was still stuck on my FXT and searching craigslist high and low for a black 05 and kept coming up short. I decided to look at for GC Imprezas to see if anything good popped up and came across this black beauty in Samammish priced at $3400



The guy I bought it from had a repair shop and he said he was using this car as a service loaner, the body looks pretty good just a lot of dings



The tires are pretty new and the maintenance looked good, I got to see it on a lift and everything looked great



The tan interior is not doing it for me at all but it is in decent shape I suppose, I do like the accordion shift boot though. The car has 204,143 miles and looks as well as I would expect with barely a spot of rust, I test drove it and about pooped myself when I hit the brakes doing 40. When I picked it up yesterday I was still thinking I would just keep it a while until I find another Forester but on the ride home I fell in love, just really want to upgrade the brakes

- Current Mod List 8/11/2023 -
  • Mileage on Cluster: 205,162
  • Mileage on Motor: (-111,881) 93,281
  • Mileage on Chassis: (+22,744) 227,906

Engine
  • Subaru (2005 Forester XT) EJ255 8.2:1, B25 Heads 55cc
  • Subaru (2004-05 STi) IHI VF39 Turbo
  • Subaru (2008-14 GR STi) Intercooler
  • iWire (GC/GR) Intercooler Splitter
  • Cobb LF Bypass Valve
  • Samco Sport (TCS292) 2004-07 STi Silicone Intercooler Hoses
  • Cobb (AP3-SUB-002) Accessport FXT+VF39 v350 OTS Tune
  • Invidia (HS05SW1HDR) Equal Length Exhaust Manifold
  • Invidia (HS02SW1UPP) Cat-less Up-pipe
  • Invidia (HS055SW1DPO) 3" Divorced Wastegate Downpipe
  • TurboXS (WS202-MP) 3" Midpipe V2
  • TurboXS (WS202-RMA-TI) Rear Muffler Titanium Tip
  • Cobb SF Intake
  • Cobb (712010-BK) Post MAF Hose
  • DeatschWerks (9-201-0791) DW200 Series Fuel Pump
  • Subaru (2005 Forester XT) Fuel Tank
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Koyo Radiator
  • STi 1.3bar Radiator Cap
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Coolant Expansion Tank
  • Greddy (16401638) Water Temperature Sensor Hose Adapter
  • iWire (Build #1303) Merged STi Harness
  • Subaru EJ257 Oil Pan & Dip Stick
  • AVCS Oil Screens Removed
  • Killer B Oil Pickup
  • Killer B Sump Baffle
  • Crawford V2 Air/Oil Separator
  • Tomei Timing Belt
  • Thermal Zero (TZ1195-C) Turbo Blanket
Coming Soon...
  • IHI VF48 Turbo
  • Cobb (COBBEBCS-SUB) 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid
  • Invidia Catted Downpipe
  • Protune

Suspension
  • Whiteline (BSF33XZ) 24mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
  • Whiteline (KBR21-24) HD Rear Sway Bar Mount Kit
  • Cusco (666 474 LB) Adjustable Rear Lateral Links
  • Subaru (2004-07 STi) Aluminum Rear Lateral Links
  • Perrin (PSP-SUS-212) Rear Sway Bar Spherical End Links
  • STi Pillowball Trailing Arms
  • Whiteline (BSF33X) 24mm Front Sway Bar
  • Subaru (2004-07 STi) Aluminum Front Control Arms
  • Cusco (660 541 A) Rear Strut Tower Bar Type OS
  • Cusco (660 544 A) Rear V-Brace Type OS-T
  • Cusco (660 540 AN) Front Strut Tower Bar Type OS
  • Swift (4F005) Sport Lowering Springs
  • Tokico (2002-03 WRX) D-Spec Struts
  • Whiteline Com 'C' Caster/Camber Adjusting Front Strut Mounts
  • Subaru (20370AA240) Group N Rear Strut Mounts
  • TSS Tubular Rear Subframe
  • Subaru (2005 Forester XT) Front Subframe
  • Cusco (666 477 A) Lower Arm Bar Ver. 2
  • Subaru (2005 Forester XT) Steering Rack
  • Subaru (GC/GD Hybrid) Steering Shaft U-joint
  • Whiteline (KSR202) Steering Rack Bushings
  • Subaru GC8 JDM 5x100 Rear R180 Knuckles
  • Tru-Line Specialized Alignment
Coming Soon...
  • Cusco Adjustable Lateral Links

Brakes, Wheels & Tires
  • Stoptech (2002-03 WRX) Stainless Steel Brake Lines
  • Dorman (M630616) Non-ABS Brake Master Cylinder
  • Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace
  • Subaru (1990-94 Legacy) 4-wheel Disc Brake Bias Controller
  • Braid Winrace-T Acropolis 15x6.5J ET+45 - Kumho Solus Xpert 195/60R15 (Winter)
  • STi 5-Spoke 16x7JJ ET+53 - Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 225/50R16 (Spring/Fall)
  • Prodrive P1WRC 17x7J ET+52 - Falken Azenis RT660 225/45ZR17 (Summer)
  • Subaru GC8 JDM 4/2 Pot Calipers
  • DBA (KNS4656) Gravel Spec Rear Rotors
  • Hawk (HB700N.562) HP+ Front Brake Pads
  • Hawk (HB179N.630) HP+ Rear Brake Pads
  • Subaru Single Stage Brake Booster
Coming Soon...
  • 195/65 Rally Tires or Snow Tires for the Braids

Drivetrain
  • Subaru (TY752VB5CA) Version 3-4 STi Type-RA Transmission
  • Exedy (15802) Stage 1 Clutch
  • Fidanza Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel
  • DCCD Pro Manual Controller
  • Cobb Adjustable Short Throw Shifter
  • Kartboy (KB-002) Shift linkage Bushings
  • TIC (1001-01-0003) Shift Linkage Update
  • Perrin (X-PSP-SUS-522) Differential Front Support Bushings
  • Subaru (38410-AA011) R180 4.44 Rear Differential
  • GSP (NCV66014) Rear Axles
  • GSP (NCV66505) Front Axles
  • Cusco (660 911 SET) Engine and Transmission Mounts
  • Kartboy (KB-025) Transmission Cradle Bushings
Coming Soon...
  • Exedy (15802HD) Stage 1 Heavy Duty Clutch
  • Cusco Rear Differential Cover
  • Replace Rear Differential Bushings
  • RWD Center Differential maybe?

Interior
  • STi Duracon Shift Knob
  • Sparco (015TMZSI) Steering Wheel
  • Sparco (01502033) Hub Adapter
  • Subaru (2002-03 WRX) Red Stitch Parking Brake Lever
  • Subaru (2002-07 WRX) Aluminum Sport Pedals
  • Flock-It Black Flocked Original Dash
  • Subaru (2000-02 Forester) Double Cupholder
  • Subaru (2000-01 2.5RS) White Face Gauge Cluster
  • Top Dash Pocket Replacement Triple Gauge Pod
  • VDO Boost, Oil Pressure & Water Temperature Gauges
  • Subaru (2000-04 Legacy) CD Player Head Unit
  • Subaru 2.5RS OEM Tweeter Upgrade
  • Polk Audio 6.5" Speakers
  • Subaru (1998-01 2.5RS) Black Interior Swap
  • Autopower (1993-01 Impreza non-Sunroof) Street Roll Bar
  • Recaro Profi XL Seat
  • Recaro Pro Racer HANS Seat
  • Planted (1993-01 Impreza) Steel Seat Bases
  • Planted Aluminum Side Mounts
  • Schroth 6-Point Harness
  • Schroth (SR20013) Profi II-6H 2" HANS Harness
  • 6OVRCRST Rear Seat Delete
  • Subaru (2004-05 2.5RS) Floor Mats

Exterior
  • Subaru 2.5RS Front Bumper Cover
  • HT Autos STi Replica Fog Covers
  • Replica STi Front Lip Spoiler
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Lightweight Front Bumper Beam
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Clear Corner Lights
  • Subaru GC8 STi Version 5/6 Grille
  • Subaru GC8 STi Aluminum Hood
  • Subaru 22B Hood Vents
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Smooth Rear Bumper
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Rear Spats
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Lightweight Rear Bumper Beam
  • Subaru 2.5RS Sideskirts
  • Rallitek Mud Flaps
  • Subaru 2.5RS Fender Liners
  • Subaru GC8 STi Fender Badges
  • Subaru 2.5RS Fender Braces
  • Subaru GC8 STi Side & Trunk Decals
  • Subaru STi Version 5 Rear Spoiler
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Tail Lights
  • Subaru GC8 STi Type-R Tail Light Trim
  • Subaru GC8 STi Type-RA Roof Vent
  • Shaved Door Mouldings
  • Subaru GC8 JDM Rear Glass With Wiper
  • Unknown Manufacture Hood Dampers
Coming Soon...
  • Repair Busted STi Sports Front Bumper
  • Paint Match Mirrors, Door Handles, maybe Skirts & Spats too
  • JDM Aeroguards and ditch the Mudflaps

*Previous non-abs brake setup, currently for sale;
Subaru (2000-04 Legacy) 289mm Rear Rotors, Subaru (2000-04 Legacy) Rear Caliper Brackets, Subaru (2002-03 WRX) Rear Calipers
Brembo (26300-AE060 09.9077.10) 293mm Front Rotors, Hawk (HB352F.665) HPS Front Brake Pads, Subaru (2002-03 WRX) Front Brake Calipers
Centric (13047014) 1-inch non-ABS Master Cylinder, Subaru Single-stage Brake Booster, Subaru (1990-94 Legacy) 4-wheel Disc Brake Bias Controller

*Formula for mileage on body: Original cluster broken at 212,042 (4-21-2014) Replacement cluster installed with 113,199 + Last recorded mileage of replacement cluster 124,826 = 212,042+11,627 = 223,669 - Installed RS cluster with 200,925 = Difference +22,744 miles

*Formula for mileage on motor: Removed from Forester at 89,044 - Installed with RS cluster at 200,925 = Difference -111,881 miles
 

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#279 ·
I thought about getting another feed line from the junkyard and replacing the return line but I don't really want to do that, I think getting it out of the rear grommet first would be the way to go



The surface rust around the battery bothered me enough to finally do something about it, hit it with a wire brush and some sandpaper in the harder to reach areas



Put down some self etching primer, not sure how the rust got so bad only around the battery but maybe a battery exploded?



Then I went over it with flat black, this is one of only a few spots that I've found rust and it was the worst



A few coats of clear and I can feel good about installing the battery now, this is why you keep the hood vent plates on



I'm still undecided how to connect the return hose but whatever I do it's not going to involve taking the fuel tank down again



I found my old set of outrigger bushings from my Legacy and I think I even had them on my Forester too



One of the things that bothered me was that they don't sit metal to metal, they just compress the rubber bushing to reduce flex so I cut that all off



I probably could have stopped there but I wanted a smooth surface for the new bushings to sit on



It was a real pain but I got the outrigger and differential to come together with the subframe and bolt everything up without stripping captive nuts or breaking them free from their welds



I cut the flanges off the differential bushings that came with the subframe so the original mounting studs could be used hoping that then I could remove the diff without having to lower the subframe, however the bushings are so stiff that either the outrigger or the subframe need to be dropped to remove or install the diff
 
#281 ·
Subframe is a local guy's, TSS from tssfab.us and I painted it myself

Lately it's been hard to stay focused on one thing with this car, I just bounce around from loose end to loose end trying to wrap stuff up. While I enjoy mixing it up, it gets frustrating not being able to just do one thing without depending on all these other things to be done. I guess so long as the parts pile is getting smaller I can call it progress



I cut out the quick connect from one of the spare lines and cut the hose down to join them, I'm a little sketched out by the hose connection so this may be revisited



By cutting the rubber tabs off the outrigger I made the gap too large for the bushing and it could move around, solved that problem by adding Outback plates to the bottom and it's tight again



Trying to get the underbody work all done so I can drop the car back down so I got the shift linkage in and replaced all the bushings with Kartboy



Making it extra super short shift causes a lot of problems but nothing a cutoff wheel can't handle, center axle and heat shields can get installed now



Got the rear sway bar in and decided to test fit the muffler and see if it plays nice with everything, looks like fitment is perfect despite the huge 3" piping



The subframe is lacking the 3rd exhaust hanger for the axleback so I had to install the midpipe for it to hang, the subframe heat shield tab is also nonexistent so I need to figure something out for that too



I wasn't sure how I would like the angled cannon look and I'm still not sure if I like it, I don't hate it so I guess it's good



I turned my attention to the engine to complete the exhaust, TD04 turbo is in but I'm trying to get the oil separator installed while I have access to the block drain that sits super close to the turbo



That reminded me to swap the heater core hoses from the 2.2 and another list of more stuff to do before the downpipe can go on



Positioning the oil separator so the drain line doesn't go uphill had me under the car for a minute and I noticed I still haven't connected the power steering lines to the rack, then I got to installing the reservoir and cooler
 
#285 ·
All winter long this car remained in the garage untouched but now I'm back in it doing stuff



This is the mess I was greeted with, I actually had to read my last few posts to remember where I was at with all the little details



Because the inside gave me anxiety I started at the nose and getting the fan/light harness bundled and fitted, then I put the in fender coolant tank in place



Sorted the wiper and brake/starter trigger wires and got them hung at the top of the bay, it was super difficult to get all the forester plugs through the Impreza grommets but mission accomplished



I was looking for the best place to disconnect and swap the feed and return lines but in a stroke of genius I just swapped them where they connect to the hard lines



The Forester intake box sort of fits but it isn't perfect, the angle it puts on the pipe is less than desirable also



I may have to modify the box but I really don't want to, I was able to get the hood closed only by taking the rain catch off the hood vent but the filter still sits too high for my liking



Getting the GC brace to fit on the GD subframe was a learning experience (aka huge pain in the ass) I tried going from front to back and it was impossible to line up the holes in the FCAR mount, they were always about 1cm off no matter how much I yelled curse words. What ended up working was loosening the nuts on the subframe, placing the forward part of the brace above the holes so that the rear was more mobile, getting the rear bolts threaded in then pulling the brace down to push the crossmember forward. I'm not sure if it is so tight because the GD control arms have just a little more width at the bushing and the crossmember is just that much wider or if yelling curse words with the garage door open is the only way



Speaking of things not fitting correctly, I have no idea why the swaybar endlinks will not clear the swaybar



It's like the swaybar is too wide but it's a GD bar on a GD crossmember with GD control arms, the endlinks are huge moog parts but I tested them on my Forester and no issues



I don't really see any other way than to swap endlinks with the Forester and just use the smaller ones on the Impreza
 
#290 ·
Your eyes are working, I need to get some new boot straps and put them back on. I thought they would be like the automatic and be able to come off and go back on without touching the clamps but nooooo

Need some of these bad boys!
I've been looking at a lot of options but I'm probably going to just use something from the junkyard unless a stupid deal comes up on pillow ball links



It's been very slow progress but I did manage to get the hearer core and dash beam in with the bulk harness tucked behind, eventually it will all have to come back off to wrap the harness



Fitment of the Forester column is less than perfect but it does work, getting the mess of wiring to meet back up with all the connectors is more challenging



So far I have the door switches taken care of, only a million more wires to go!



The engine side of the harness is almost ready to be wrapped up but while I was down there the splash guard caught my attention, a little trim and perfect fit



Fenders came off to get better access to the harness, there's only a few wires on the passenger side but the fender needed to come off for another reason too...



I picked up a set of fender braces off a true RS from the junkyard, sprayed the holes with pb blaster and tapped them to get all the crap out



Probably won't make any difference but they were cheap and easy to install, the added weight is just a bonus



The driver's side was super dirty so I really wanted to tap these threads, the amount of wires on this side was just too much to try and wrap the harness with the fender still on



I had to clean everything up before I could start working, it was so dirty I think it was driven without a fender liner for a while and this is the side where I have found the most surface rust



I put this on for a joke but now I go back and forth between liking it and thinking it's stupid, ordered some more parts to keep this project moving so the next update won't be so far away
 
#294 ·
Have you read the title?
Exactly, it's not John Hammond's Hellaspared-No-Expense Kitchens. I did spend some money at iwire recently though...

Not on a wiring harness unfortunately



I gave up on the GC power steering cooler, nice thought but not worth the effort so the reservoir is mounted and both FXT hoses used



Started wrapping the harness from the passenger side and worked my way over, believe it or not it is just as boring and tedious as the pictures suggest



The 3 wire fans are just running at full speed with both hot wires twisted together in order to use them with the FXT 2 wire system, all wrapped up and secure



I wanted to use the plastic belt cover that was originally on the motor but it needs the A/C compressor to be installed, tried using the one from the EJ22 but it was hitting the power steering hose but this one from a bugeye fits perfect



Went with iwire for the DBW adapter plate, it wasn't hellacheap but I liked it best when weighing the options



Install couldn't be any simpler and pedal position is perfect, the opposite is true of the jumbled mess of wires



Making my way back to the interior slowly but surely, I wrapped and rewrapped the section under the headlight so many times until everything fit perfectly but after this section the engine side will be finished



Almost looking like a real engine bay, switched out the battery cables for the Impreza set and used just one of the FXT horns



The fitment of the fender was total crap before so I was careful to get it as exact as possible this time, it's a little more push at the bottom but much better overall



The other thing I spent money on was this splitter for the GR intercooler, it cost almost as much as the intercooler but again it was my top pick from all the options out there
 
#302 ·
i mean. holy shit dickturdbrain. I KNOW that nick did that. i saw it in you post. i saw it in nicks thread. i saw it YET AGAIN..in your requote.

my main takeaway...is that i KNOW dingly nuts josh won't be doing that. he's apparently to ocheap to spend even 60 bucks. but will spend WAAAAAAAAAY more that that with other brian.
 
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