I picked up a Recaro Profi XL since the profi was really tight around my shoulders and generally too small for me. I'm 6'4" and 190 lbs so I don't know what I was thinking with the regular Profi. I would like the XL to be more snug but manufacturers of all products intended to fit people work on the assumption that all tall guys are also fatasses and I have to take what I can get
I started by taking the Profi of the side mounts, the mounts have to be taken off too since the XL is wider and it requires standard 90 side mounts as opposed to the offset narrow ones
The little round hole I needed to drill in order to put the seat back as far as I require, it's much easier to drill the soft aluminum than the steel Planted mount
The seat is so wide I wasn't able to just fit my hand in to start the allen bolts I had to take the center console out, the bolts in the rear are preventing it from tilting forward any more so I need to find a button bolt to get the front down some more and have a more upright position
The driver's side was incredibly easy but the passenger side needs to have sliders so my daughter can access the back seat and that's where things get frustrating
The instructions for the sliders were a cruel joke but not as bad as the installation hardware, just the black bolts came with the sliders so after a trip to home depot I got it all together and working perfectly
There was just one problem, I go to install the seat and even as close together as they can get the side mounts are about 1.5" too far apart to fit the seat
In a moment of genius I think to swap the rails on opposite sides and put the lifter bar on the outside of them, had to drill another hole in the sliders for that idea to work though and guess what? Now the sliders are too close together, I'm done screwing around with them in order to have sliders I need the standard 90 side mounts
I put it pretty far forward but I'm gonna need those sliders, hopefully I can return the offset side mounts and get 90's or maybe a shorter lifter bar but something has to be changed it will not work with the parts I have
Now my passengers can know the joy of staying put in your seat during hard cornering at the speed limit in a school zone and look sexy while doing it
I thought the starter was going out because it wasn't fully engaging and sounded like it was just grinding on the flywheel but then on the second or third try it would start just fine. Yesterday I had a lot of stuff to do after work so of course it wouldn't start, it wasn't making a grinding noise though this time it sounded like it was just spinning freely. I got a jump from a Nissan and the humiliation was unbearable but it started right up with the dirty Nissan juice. I hope to never again feel that shame but the battery I replaced it with is only 4 months newer than the one it replaced
The past week I've been figuring out the seat mounting, turns out starting from the seats down works much better than building from the base. I swapped the rails to the driver's side after seeing how much further I could get the seat to go back on the passenger seat and building from the seat down they fit perfectly. I'll pick up another set for the passenger side eventually but right now I don't much care. The passenger side planted mount has an issue with staying true when bolted down so I have to use washers to make it flat or the rails will bind up, something I never would have noticed in my build from the base method. Getting the seats together got me thinking about the rest of the interior and what I'm going to do with the compass pack hood when I eventually swap the dash. I was originally going to use OEM Lamco white face gauges but they are extremely hard to find and crap gauges anyway. Since I got a V3 accessport I'm not really concerned with gauges so I thought about just filling it with a din pocket but then I remembered I had the single din flip out from my Legacy just sitting in the attic taking up space
The display has hardly any draw so I just spliced into the factory adapter and running both units with the same power, ground and accessory wires
All the processing is done with the under seat unit and I ran a new power wire to the batter to feed it, the plan is to use the double din as the master and run rca's through the single din and then to the amp
I had to file the hood a little bit to fit over the headunit, the color difference bothers me but sound quality is exceptional
Next day the dash came out and I got all the wires tucked in nice and snug
When I swapped the dash in my Legacy I found out that officials of the government variety don't like it when you have multiple vins on your car
Since I don't have any rivets I just screwed the plate on, doesn't look super legit but at least it matches the title and firewall
I took out the SRS unit and took a piss on it then ran the screen disable wires to the dash blanks where I'm going to add some toggles and started putting everything back together
The way it looks with the black dash totally made the swap worth every minute, having the dash out also made wiring super easy and gave me more room for parts!
I took the rear heating ducts out so I don't toast my electronics and the seat is ready to go back in
I really like having a knob for the volume rather than buttons, I really want to be able to clone the display from my phone to one of the screens for navigation but I haven't looked into solutions yet
If you can measure the width of the seat (outer cushion to outer cushion) I can tell you if we have a base option for you...with integrated sliders, and that won't stack one thing on top of another like your setup does (which artificially places you higher in the car than desirable. The limit the bases I have in mind are 20.5 inches in total width. Otherwise using the stacker method like you are, no matter who's base you get, you're going to sit super high
Loving the stereo do far, having a knob for the volume is so much better than buttons. I've been chugging along on my project, making little progress but it's something. I went to the tint place by my house and explained my defroster issue and one of the guys says it's gonna cost as much to take the tint off and fix the defroster as it will to get new glass and fixing the defroster will make the new tint look crappy. I'm no expert in the matter but that seems retarded to me, here's the issue I'm having
Time to get JDM glass or just fix the thing myself?
I learned that the FXT front swaybar is larger than the STi, then I scratched up the FXT bar with a scotch pad
So that I could paint it gold, the STi rear bar is larger than the FXT bar but I sold them both for what I paid
Looks good I guess, I just have no idea what I'm going to do with all the gold paint I have
Put the shift linkage together with my old Legacy parts, Kartboy bushings fit but not perfectly
The Kartboy shifter is a lot shorter than stock so I might be looking for an extension or a longer shift knob
I really liked this setup in the Legacy, should be just as awesome with the FXT transmission
Engine is off the hoist and I have been working on the oil catch can issue, thinking about splurging on the Crawford
My butthole is sore after this trip to the stealership, buyer's remorse for sure
I finally washed it since putting the clip on, really looks good clean regardless of color difference
You search for the break in the defroster line
You put 2 pieces of tape along the parts of the line that are still there (outlining where the line should be)
You then paint some copper paint on to replace the broken part. It sits a bit higher than the original line, but it re-connects the electrical connection and your defroster works again.
Peel the tape off for straight paint lines.
So, this is why the tint has to come off (to get to the defroster lines). In reality, it was probably whoever put the tint ON that broke all of those defroster lines. It's kinda rare to have so many of them broken, but when tinting a window, they run a squeegee along them, and if they do that wrong, they'll **** it up.
Re-tinting over the (taller) patched portions will probably leave air bubbles, and possibly they'll just break the defroster lines again.
So if it were me? I'd take a baseball bat to my window and call the insurance company. "Oops, I dropped a can of paint on it. Buy me a new one. Tinted. $50 glass covearge."
After watching the Crawford AOS install video I noticed Josh was right about an extension being needed with the 08+ intercooler bracket. Well, sort of... the original bracket stays on and the 08+ bolts to it like so
I feel a little stupid but I wasn't able to see that part when I was peeking at the STi
The 08+ part doesn't line up with the holes for the power steering lines but the bracket lines up with the edges and curve of the 08+ bracket
I had to scrap the steering line brackets to get the top line to fit behind the header tank and outside the intercooler bracket
Then I made a rub of the forester bracket using my dirty fingers so I could drill the 08+ bracket to fit at least one bolt in
About as professional as it gets with this job and with that taken care of I turned my attention back to the exhaust
I got 15' of titanium wrap for the up pipe and down pipe, with the vht and the wrap it should be well insulated
Before I put the new header gaskets on I replaced the oil cooler gasket, this thing was absolutely covered in thick grime and the gasket was about half the thickness of new
The header is back on and copper anti-seize used on all the exhaust bolts, dropped the motor back down and now I can put my hoist away for a bit
I would have put the turbo in but I want to take care of the crankcase ventilation first, I'm just going to bite the bullet and get the Crawford V2
Before I packed it in for the day I wrapped the bell mouth of my down pipe with the rest of the titanium wrap, Not sure if I want to go with a heat shield or a blanket for the turbo
Started off the week going to pick n pull to check out an Impreza that just landed and unfortunately the cluster was gone but got some other goodies off it. A little poo came out when I saw the tails, the blue scoop had some issues so I'm gonna use the red one and the vents I'll get painted too
I put the us beam back on while the bumper is off, the whole JDM front bumper assembly is less than half the weight of the US beam alone
All the dings were done today, the ones I could get good pics of are shown before and after
I got some of the trim off and the door mouldings
The antenna plate and the trim around the roof I still have to take off, wondering if I should just leave it on though