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Discussion Starter #143
It seems the pics of the windscreen install are not gonna happen but I did get plenty of pics of the rear window, front was pretty much the same but a lot more rust



Rear glass was knifed out and tossed carelessly into the refuse bin



After cutting a ton of sealant off, the rust met the grinder and was eradicated without prejudice



Fresh primer takes about 10 minutes to cure and in that time the new glass was cleaned up



The JDM glass is in and new clips are setting in the sealant while it's still soft



The front clips should have been installed with the sealant still soft but I forgot until it was too late to matter, some of them were a real challenge to get seated properly



Getting the molding on was incredibly easy, all the clips just snapped into place



There are already captive nuts in the shelf for the wiper motor bracket so that was convenient



The forward mount is a little perplexing, I'm not sure how or where the bracket comes from but I would like to find out



It's nice that the 3rd brake light hole also works for the wiper motor



There was a nitto wiper blade much shorter attached but it wouldn't lay right because the top of it was hitting the arm so I used the passenger blade from my forester for the time being
 

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Discussion Starter #145


Now the back is looking complete with the exception of the teeny tiny muffler, stealth mode ftl



The deck pad was cut for presumably the 3rg brake light or wiper whichever, the board hasn't got any markings where to cut it though



I just followed the pad with a drywall knife and cut the carpet with scissors hoping it would look somewhat decent installed



There has to be some sort of trim piece that I'm missing but it looks good enough for me to not stay up all night worrying about it



The wiper stalk for wagon has the same number and arrangement of pins, I cut the pigtail off with it and it too is exactly the same



Normally you don't need to remove the steering wheel to swap the wiper stalks but I had a bigger plan, getting the steering wheel off is just a matter of taking the 2 airbag screws on the sides out and stripping one then pulling the airbag to expose the column nut



My favorite tool for that nut is a lug wrench because it just makes it so easy, the Nardi uses a completely different clock spring so I just took out the old one and have nothing back there now



I had to trim the plastics a lot to fit the new wheel and it still rubbed



Final product is not a perfect curve but close enough, no rubbing but I went over the cut with a scotch pad to make it smooth anyway



Nardi wheel feels like it is smaller diameter but I didn't do a side by side comparison, the leather could be in better condition but I'm gonna see what I can do with cleaning and treatment products
 

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Discussion Starter #149
My brother works for a cleaning company and he hooked me up with a crap ton of leather treating chemicals. I had unrealistic expectations for the worn parts and scratches, I wish it would have turned out better looking but the leather is super soft and the parts that aren't worn look beautiful



The wheel isn't really that much smaller but it feels like a huge difference, I want to go over the stitching with a red sharpie or something but all together I'm really happy with it



With the 17's on the drums look so terrible and I'm finally tired enough of looking at them to do something about it



Removal of everything went super smooth except the frikken axle was welded into the hub and would not give for anything



I probably should have taken a more professional approach but in a fit of rage I grabbed the hub and started ripping at it like the hulk and it finally came off, that stub is really seized in there



Bit the bullet and a $100 trip to the parts store later I had the solution to my headache



Go to bleed the caliper and snapped the bleeder screw right off, I tried and tried to get it out but it too was rust welded permanently in place so another super pissed trip to the parts store for a new caliper this time



The brakes worked fine when I took them off my Legacy but sitting in my shed for a few years obviously took a toll on them, the bleeder screw for the other side came out just fine but it was clogged with rust and needed to be replaced



The trailing links are originally from my Legacy too and same with the stainless lines, the hubs are from my Forester and they are not getting along with the H6 discs



That looks so much better and after some stop testing I can say huge difference, the front doesn't nose dive like before and it stops hard yet totally controllable



I had a bunch of garden soil in the trunk and really like the height it was at, springs are gonna have to wait until post swap though. About the hubs not getting along with the brakes though, for some reason the FXT hubs were rubbing on the lip of the parking brake drum. When I took the discs off to see what was making so much noise I saw that there was fresh rub marks on the lowest part of the backing plate, I tried to pound it back with a hammer and punch but ended up grinding some material off with the dremel instead. I thought maybe my Forester was set on the ground without wheels at some point and that caused the plate to bend but I really don't know what the cause was, just a little irritated as I had to grind both sides and had a massive freakout when they were making the most terrible noise on the first test drive
 

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Discussion Starter #150 (Edited)
So many people make fun of my tiny muffler that I decided to try on my old midpipe from my Legacy and see how it sounds. When it was on the Legacy the axleback was 07 STi but it got mangled when that car was assraped to death. The STi muffler was welded to a 2.25" custom bent midpipe with a 24" Jones Bros. resonator, I just cut off the axleback where the pipe was bent tried it without any muffler how it sounds on the 2.2L Impreza with OEM header/cats

When it was part of the Legacy exhaust it was on a 25D with Tsudo UEL and HFC how it sounds on the 2.5L with UEL and HFC



The hanger is in the wrong position since it was meant for a Legacy so janky copper wire is holding it up, I had to take the graphite gasket off the cat and use hella sigh temp rtv all over the gasket to seal it



I picked up my order from subarugenuineparts.com and go to work installing the $2 fender plug



I don't really see the point of it with the setup I have but for $2 and easy install I figured why the hell not



The part I was really looking forward to is the JDM rear bumper beam, the box wouldn't fit in my car so I took out the $70 beam and tossed the box



I don't see why all the dealers can't get this stuff, maybe if you can give them the part number they can help but the one closest to me acted like I was trying to order Lambo doors when I asked about the JDM bumper beam



The charcoal can had to come down and it's a good idea to loosen the side bolts on the tow hooks before attempting to remove the 6 bumper beam bolts



The JDM bumper skin really did not want to fit on the US beam, even after a ton of cutting it refused to sit flush



The slot cut all the way down the length of the beam was just so the skin would actually fit over it but the JDM skin is just too close to all the extra reinforcement in the US bumper beam that it won't fit without removing a lot more metal and I got tired of chewing up perfectly good blades trying to get perfect fitment



So happy, fits like a frikken glove



Also relating to bumper installs... I got a bunch of fasteners from a Honda Accord front lip and they are amazing, I highly recommend replacing the crap Subaru hardware with these
 

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
I used the long weekend and the discounts at pick n pull to sort the wiring for the rear wiper because it was bothering me more than I thought it would



Thanks to Kaiba and a few members pointing me in his direction I got the trim piece for the rear wiper



The finished look is so much better, just needs a little bit of vacuuming but looking complete and actually being complete are different things



After the frustration of trying to get the wiper switch to work I went back to the junkyard for the complete harness out of a wagon, side by side you can tell the wagon has almost double the wiring



The relay is for the rear wiper and few more things are different between the wagon and coupe, because of the hatch the rear defroster (red/blue) needed to be separated and located further up the harness



I cut off the old connector and added a blade connector, the ground wire from the wagon harness wasn't necessary since the coupe is already grounded only a couple inches from the glass



The 4 pin connector for the wiper also carries the 3rd brake light (white/black) but the part of that harness that connects and is actually in the hatch has totally different colors, the other 3 wires go to the rear wiper and are color matched to the main harness



The door switches are another random thing that was different, the coupe are a 2 wire while the wagon are already grounded



All I did was cut the 2 wire connector out of the coupe harness, ground the switch and reconnect the signal wire to the new harness



I washed and waxed the body while the weather was nice then I used tire wet gel on the mirrors, door handles, skirts, window trim and spats



I'm extremely happy with the results
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Some more goodies were put on and some more drama, on with the update



The bare spot on the coupes looks extra bare without side mouldings so I let loose with $75 and got the side decals from japanparts.com



It just looks correct now, and good... so good



I also got the Type R decal, mostly because it was cheap and why not



The i emblem decals were just laying around so I figured why not see how they look on the fog covers



It seemed like a bit much but since they weren't going to be used anywhere else I didn't have any problem just taking them off and tossing them



After taking the oval off I liked it much better so this is how they stay



I didn't realize one is mirrored until just now looking at the pictures but whatever, they will do until the STi decals are sourced



I decided to enter the local car show last minute and my daughter was happy to help wipe the water spots off from the night rain



Not long after that I find a nice long crease in the quarter panel, could be from a bicycle or a shopping cart I really don't know but it makes me mad and this is why I can't have nice things



In preparation for my next modification I added another loop to mount the harness correctly, it's fine to mount the submarine straps to the seat base but you always want the lap and shoulder belts mounted to the chassis directly
 

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Discussion Starter #157
The roll bar is Autopower Street-Sport 52804 Roll Bars - Autopower Industries



This is actually how it was shipped, I dunno what I was expecting but maybe a little cardboard?



It has a few issues with regard to the paint but nothing that they didn't make clear to me before purchase



Trying to get it in without taking out both front and rear seats is a fool's errand, I tried leaning the top forward but I wasn't able to get it upright so you gotta lean it back when you put it in



The left and right supports aren't marked but the bolt holes only line up if they are on the correct sides



I started by drilling one hole and bolting it down before drilling the other holes, tightening down the plate over the sound deadening made it ooze out the sides



The strut tower plates were a real pain to get bolted up but mostly because I was just too lazy to carry my jack down and take the wheels off



There are no lock washers, there's a lower plate and two nuts are used on each bolt



If I cared more about my carpet I would have just cut the hole and pushed the end of the bar through but it is ratty and tired so I just used scissors to cut around it and switched the left and right floor mats



The rear seat was quite conformable to the bar and fit nicely, the main hoop is a little close to the factory belt but not to the point of becoming an issue



My daughter actually enjoys climbing into her seat through the "monkey bars" and, though it looks dangerous, she is in no danger of hitting her face on the harness bar as mommy predicted
 

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couldnt you technically swap the harness bar and it will be a little lower? cuz of the angle. then it would be even further from the kiddos face... looks like plenty of room, just an idea
 
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