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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,852 Posts
i mean. holy shit dickturdbrain. I KNOW that nick did that. i saw it in you post. i saw it in nicks thread. i saw it YET AGAIN..in your requote.

my main takeaway...is that i KNOW dingly nuts josh won't be doing that. he's apparently to ocheap to spend even 60 bucks. but will spend WAAAAAAAAAY more that that with other brian.
 

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2000 RS gray/silver
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86 Posts
Wheres the updates?
i just did a ej205 swap on my 00rs.
wish i would have done a few of the things you did while the motor was out.
Coming along nicely
 

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Cheap Kitchens
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1,875 Posts
Discussion Starter #309 (Edited)
hey you get any rpm specific vibes when you mounted that tubular rear cross member?
No, I didn't notice any increase in vibration from the driveline. When I installed it I had a wheel bearing die due to the toe out situation and lack of adjustment so those issues took more of my attention

Absolutely, I don't actually drive my cars I just like to dress them up in different outfits like a little girl playing barbies

The reason for the lack of update is complicated and personal but can be blamed mostly on a lack of interest. Now my desire to finish this project has never been stronger and I'm going to push hard/spend money to get it going again. I've had to add some things to the list that I wanted to do at a later time and go backwards a little bit, It basically feels like every time I get close to the finish line it moves further away but it's all about the journey right



First step was to remove the FXT harness, I gave up on retaining the body computer and adapting all the electronics and I'm just going to do the normal merge. I need to find a complete body harness now and I'm looking for a 99-01 5MT to pull from, makes the cluster swap plug-n-play and I can keep the FXT alternator. The 98 doors need to be adapted and I'll need to add a rear wiper harness if it's not from a wagon but that's it, much easier just some of the amenities I wanted won't be there



Going straight to VF48 turbo and skipping stage 2, I don't want to replace a turbocharger ever again. The downpipe had some thread issues on the rear O2 bung so I got a M18x1.5 tap to straighten them out, cleaned all the ceramic paint off of it too to show off that shine. I threw away the OEM heat shield when I moved and had to get a replacement mount from Subaru to use the cobb shield, exhaust can be checked off the list now



The top radiator hose I just couldn't get to fit without kinking it or it rubbing on the timing cover so I'm swapping the crossover pipe with one from an Impreza. I've seen crossover pipes with two sensor bungs and I would like to use one of those if it fits so I can put my temp gauge sender in there, I'll be going to the junkyard later today to source a bunch of stuff and check them against each other and probably get both if I can find them



Before I took the manifold off I was going to put the oil pressure sender in the front location under the alternator and just pull the light for the factory switch from the cluster. With the manifold off I have better access to the rear port and I'm going to use that one since it will see a drop in pressure sooner



I got a new oil galley plug that has NPT threads for my sender, the OEM pressure switch uses BSPT which is almost right. The PCV hose that comes from the block right next to the new sender was all cracked and broke in half when I removed the PCV hard lines so added that to the list



There was a lot of corrosion on the manifold bolts when I removed them the first time and rather than replace them I just brushed them clean and reused them, decisions that come back to haunt you later. I've been soaking this guy in pb blaster for days and haven't even tried to remove it yet, probably won't touch it until I need to reinstall everything and just keep soaking it until then



With the heat shield on I can finally figure out placement of the crawford AOS and hose routing. I've tried to find pictures of a GC with this AOS but turn up nothing on google, there's such limited space with the hood right above, the strut bar to the rear, the turbo below and the prop valve in front. I'm not going to be able to use the mounting holes for sure, just going to have to live with whatever these tight tolerances will give me



I was going to save the brakes for a later time but the braided lines I've had forever are so tired and won't work with the GD struts and it's just time to replace them. Since I'm opening up the hydraulic system I took the liberty of swapping the proportioning valve with one from an older Legacy that had 4 wheel disc and no ABS, they look identical and I'm not sure if there's any difference but I did it anyway just in case



One of the rear lines was rubbing on something and is all frayed, the rubber is bulged and I'm pretty lucky it didn't bust on me. The front lines look fine and could probably be used again on the older style struts but the rears look like they really didn't like the angles they were at with my lifted setup, They have been good to me for over a decade but it's time to say goodbye and new StopTech lines are ordered



It may not make a difference like the prop valve but I'm going to get the 1" non ABS master cylinder also from the older Legacy, the non ABS SVX master would be ideal but I can't find one for the life of me so sacrifices are being made. I filled the clutch reservoir and bled that system so at least one of the three pedals works and that's progress in my book
 

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Cheap Kitchens
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Discussion Starter #312
There was not a single gen1 Legacy at the junkyard for the first time in forever, figures that the cars I need are only there when I don't need them. There's usually 10-15 of those cars to choose from at any given time so I didn't think twice about pulling the master cylinder, thinking about ordering a new one anyway



Looking at the neck you can see a clear difference between the two crossover pipes, I was really pleased with the GC having another bung for my sender too



And then I tested the fitment, at first glance it fits perfect but it looks like the neck would be right in the path of the turbo inlet and there is a pcv nipple in the center of the block that prevents bolt holes from lining up



Clearly this is not going to work, I'm stuck using the Forester pipe



It's just barely too close to that nipple, the neck is a totally different route too



The upward and straighter angle gives me the most issue but the longer neck leaves less length for the top hose to compensate



It's so close, I think a hose with one 45 degree bend right after the radiator should fit



There's still the upward angle and not on the same plane but it really is a tight turn the hose needs to make and I think that is what causes them to collapse in the middle



The regular hose fits perfect with the GC pipe and I trimmed one down at both ends but it just can't make the turn without folding in half, the universal hose I got fits the best but I'm probably just grossly overthinking a rubber hose



I managed to drill through the bolt and get to the bottom of the hole, I really beat those walls up but that's the only way I know how to make big things fit in a small hole



The bolt ate everything but the cobalt bit and wrecked the hell out of my bolt extractor, a few threads at the bottom I was able to save. Helicoil kit is on the way, never done one of those before so should be a learning experience
 

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Discussion Starter #315
:naughty:
This guy fucks

You can cut the hose in half and put a temp sensor in between.
That looks pretty sweet, I think I might try that



Lucky for me I drilled the hole the right size for the helicoil and went straight into tapping it with the special tap, it was nerve wracking but going slow and backing out slightly then going in deeper has proven to be an effective method in many different arenas for me



Threading in the helicoil was super simple, just have to break off the tang at the end with a punch and it's good to go



Kinda stuck with the FXT crossover pipe, looks like the pcv lines wouldn't have fit with the GC pipe either



Never want to drill on my heads again so brand new bolts all around for the intake manifold, everything looked right until I put the bpv hose in it's place and it isn't fitting with the oil pressure sender in the way



Moved the sender back up to the front and I extended the wiring for the OEM switch to relocate it in the rear, it was a real pain to get out with the manifold installed



I really wish I would have just got the sender that also included a switch so I wouldn't have to have both, not sure how I will have to run the sender wire so it's staying like this until I figure it out



When I tested if the alternator fit with the sender in place I didn't test if the belt would fit and it turns out that it doesn't, I measured the length with it resting on the sender and now looking for a 5PK900 from late 90's BMW or early 2000's Hyundai/Kia



The power steering hoses have been at odds with the GR top mount bracket so I put the pressure hose on the outside of it but now I can't use that final holding bracket, I got a bunch of different ones at the junkyard but none of them worked properly so I'm gonna just leave holding them down up to the center bracket



Front brakes didn't need much attention, probably didn't need to replace the Goodridge hoses but they were old and didn't mount to the newer struts



The rear brakes were not working with the bugeye hoses, I'm pretty sure I used the Legacy calipers when I did the H6 upgrade and they put the brake hose out toward the rear which is not working and probably why my Goodridge lines were not happy. I have no idea what I did with the FXT calipers (probably threw them in the trash) so I ordered new calipers, the pads are still really thick so I'm going to keep them
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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Brings back fond memories of playing the crossover/pcv/powersteering game on my motor.
 

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Cheap Kitchens
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Discussion Starter #317
I'm still making progress, slow and steady wins the race. The car I needed to get a harness from finally appeared in a junkyard by me so I spent a few hours inside a 1999 Impreza L wagon with 5MT and no ABS. Now the harnesses are at iwire and I am trying to get everything else put together before it's shipped back to me, the race is on...



The 1" master cylinder from a non ABS Legacy fit perfectly, similar pushrod depth and 4 ports so everything except that extra 1/8" the SVX has



All of this caliper business because the notch for the brake hose is at a different angle, luckily when Subaru makes these pointless changes there are only slightly annoying differences that can be remedied by combining parts from different years



I slapped the old calipers on the new brackets and got my core deposit back even though they aren't "exactly the same part number" The backing plates were coming off the old pads so they got some anti squeal and new hardware on the bracket for them



All installed with a happy angle on the hose this time, the whole thing could have been avoided if I wasn't lazy and did this bracket swap with the Forester calipers instead of just using the whole unit from the Legacy then throwing out the Forester calipers because "I will never need them" but you live and you learn



Finally found a pair of endlinks that fit and don't cost a million dollars, found them on rockauto but I don't remember the details



I think I nailed down the location of the AOS I just don't like the lower hose so close to the turbo heatshield, I removed the original TMIC bracket for more hose freedom since it isn't really necessary and it was getting in the way



Couldn't stand that pristine white cap that came with the new master so I got an old black one at the junkyard when I was pulling the harness



Since I had a wagon harness in before I don't have to modify as much stuff, the wiper plug is already lengthened and connects right up



Had to fish the rear defroster wire out of the loom to run it to a much closer rear window, the rear hatch dome light and open sensor will just get scrapped along with the rear doors



One of the things I forgot to grab was the fuel tank pigtails, I have to go back for them and convert the Forester plug to the 99 spec
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Looks good man!

PN on the MC?
Centric 13047014 here it is on Rockauto



The only issue is the plugs are not compatible and another pigtail I need added to the junkyard shopping list, it's probably not going to be possible to get the SVX master any more so this is the best non-ABS guys can do using OEM parts



The 1,303rd harness done by iwire showed up and I can't say enough good things about Brian's customer service but I can try. I literally sent him a jumbled mess of cut up wires and had a million questions for him but he was kind and courteous to me and very understanding of my situation, the final product turned out amazing. Thank you Brian!



I quickly got to work installing the harness starting with the engine and following along with the iwire instructional videos, the section that connects near the battery goes through the fender just like on the FXT



I left the fender off after putting in the 99 wagon harness and I've been wanting to put it back on for so long, the body is finally put back together and now my anxiety level when I look at it is reduced considerably



The harness fits on the firewall just as the old one did and it felt so good to put the dash bar back in, things are really coming together and it feels like I've gotten over the wall



One of the things Brian warned be about when converting from a 98 harness to 99-01 is the door harnesses are different plugs so I pulled them with the rest of the harness at the junkyard



The diver side window switch connector is 4 pins bigger for the rear windows that I don't have but it was easy to pull all the pins out of the connector and swap them over to the coupe connector



There is a bunch of unused ports so Subaru totally could have used the same connector but of course they did not because that would be too easy, the wires are also in different positions than on the sedan/wagon connector so I used this close-up as a guide



The final issue swapping the door harnesses was with the power door lock actuator wiring being too short for a longer coupe door so I had to extend it using the coupe wiring



Steering column is bolted in, almost all the wiring is in place and the last thing I have to do before putting the dash back in is wire up the gauges
 
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