[FryphaX]

have you fix the trany crossmember captive nut problem? i got my 17mm captive nut crossthreaded and thinking of cutting a hole from the top and putting a bolt going down.

Best bet is to cut the hole, remove the nut and weld a new one in when you bolt things together again.

 

[JO5HUA]

Yesssss finally swapping! Staying factory turbo/power level?

I'll be running the td04 with stock downpipe for a while to get things settled in, then possibly going 'stage 2 bro' with the bellmouth before eventually going to the vf turbo. I am expecting around 300whp all said and done but I want to make sure everything is working well before taking the trip to Portland or Spokane for a pro tune

have you fix the trany crossmember captive nut problem? i got my 17mm captive nut crossthreaded and thinking of cutting a hole from the top and putting a bolt going down.

I just put some construction adhesive around the hole and got the captive nut to hold still enough to tap the threads, I chased the bolt too and impacted it back in no fuss. Tap & die + impact = winning, just gotta hope 2 ugga ugga's is the correct torque spec lol

Having limited time to work in the garage the past few weeks kept me trying to get little things taken care of and no major breakthroughs really, kind of a scattered update because my work has been a little here and a little there but making progress on the loose ends

The steering joint from a newer WRX worked fine, without a load everything is solid and it turns easily but I may have to revisit the firewall grommet if the dash beam sitting slightly farther back becomes an issue

Working on converting the auto climate to manual has been pretty difficult and confusing but it was obvious the blower box needed a simple cleaning

Found a spider and some egg sacks in there too so that was cool, I've been really tempted to just remove the a/c and all components but all I did was clean everything with soapy water to get all the 20 year old dust out of there and put it back together complete

The lower vents that go to the rear passengers I removed a long time ago but just by cutting them by the trans tunnel, now tat I have the box out I patched it up so I can get some better airflow on bi-level

A lot of this mess has been cleaned up but the auto climate still makes up a lot of the useless wires, this is pretty much where I left the climate situation until I decide if I want to put forth the effort to keep the a/c

It was not easy but I managed to shoehorn the engine and transmission in together by myself, now I'm seeing that actually a lot of the FXT stuff is modified for the subframe spacers like the radiator hose sticks way up and even the power steering hose is kinked higher up

I was hoping to use the FXT radiator but it won't clear the hood, the intake elbow is also bent higher so it seems pretty much anything that goes from the engine to the body has been modified for the subframe spacers on the FXT

So that leaves me with the GC8 radiator or buying a GD radiator, for some reason the GC8 has 3-wire fans I guess for variable speed?

At least one of the things I was concerned about fitting doesn't have any issues, clears the strut bar with plenty of room and there's plenty of room behind the tmic for a/c hard lines

All I've done with the wiring in this time is cut the lighting connectors off the old harness and merge them with the new harness, the doors are next and I'll probably save the trunk for last because that's where most of my slack will be

 

[bue car]

Keep it up!

 

[181stLeader]

Awesome updates! I like the direction you have went with this car! Sport bumper huge wing, roll bar, and now the swap!

 

[JO5HUA]

This whole mess of hoses still needs to be figured out, I'm not sure if I can keep the power steering cooler where it's at and I'm pretty confident the nozzle on the power steering pump needs to be swapped with a wrx one

Moving on while I ponder that I pulled the old tank out along with all the evap stuff and the differential, axles, outrigger...

The tanks don't look too different but there are a lot of little things that I started to notice

I tried to just keep it all together but the Forester filler neck wouldn't fit in the Impreza, side by side you can see the forester one is longer by over an inch

I stripped the Impreza filler neck and put the Forester stuff on it, the position of the valve is a little off and it stretched one hose while leaving a lot of slack in another

I cut the longer hose to get better fitment and bolted up the 3rd hard line to find that it has the same issue

Same solution and the filler neck swap is complete, the Forester hard lines fit through the body no problem and they line up perfectly with the mounting bolt

The charcoal box has the same dimensions but the hose routing makes it a little harder to fit, the hoses are pretty close to the sway bar and needed some adjusting to keep them from kinking, I might also need to trim them like the filler neck hoses

Coming off the tank the hoses are bent in such a way that it makes an odd pass through the gap, it doesn't look like they are pinched but not a comfortable angle for them I'm sure

The three lines to the motor are connected differently, I stopped work here so when I pick back up I'll start on the motor side and work my way back

 

[bue car]

Nice work!

 

[Spec R]

nice!

i see that blower apart and feel compelled to show you this from my build thread. so much easier when the assembly is out of the car.

Cabin Air Filter Cover Kit (G3210FC010)
Cabin Air Filter Element (G3210FC000)

Parts

 

[bue car]

FYI that part is discontinued. Hold onto it, it's gold :lol:

 

[Spec R]

FYI that part is discontinued. Hold onto it, it's gold :lol:

the cabin filter kit is discontinued?
i searched KITG3210FC000 and see it on a number of sites. unless of course you're talking about something else :sunny:

 

[bue car]

Yes. Order it and they will cancel your order and tell you the part is no longer available. Have someone 3D print that lower bracket, make bank

There are a few threads on there about it

 

[Spec R]

Yes. Order it and they will cancel your order and tell you the part is no longer available. Have someone 3D print that lower bracket, make bank

There are a few threads on there about it

thats lame! 3 sites i checked say its available! i guess i got lucky - some of the threads you mentioned were before I even got my kit in 2013

 

[bue car]

Seems like they sold out late last year finally or something per the news. Who knows.

I removed all of that anyways so I don't need a filter :lol:


#because racecars

 

[fuzzyhead]

I'm still working on getting the wing mounted properly, got replacements for all the missing bolts from Subaru. I was torn between getting the epoxy for plastics and the epoxy for damn near everything, ended up getting the everything epoxy since I'm joining metal to plastic

They didn't have any part numbers for the version 5 so I got bolts for a hawkeye hoping they were the same, they are a little different but work just as well

There is one mount left to fix and it's going to need some 2 part epoxy, I was just going to use super glue for the brake light trim but if I'm mixing epoxy I'll use that

Epoxy is holding pretty well, I'm gonna wait the full 12 before mounting the wing though

I have a broken pin on my spoiler. Is that how the mounting pins are held on from the factory? With epoxy? I have been trying to get it off, but I don't want to break anything.

Nice project by the way.

 

[bue car]

Usually not, they are just slid in, is yours rusted? I had fun taking all the rusted ones off my hood vents, saved the plastic ... whew

 

[Kiffbliksem]

Nice work! Keep up the photos!

 

[fuzzyhead]

Usually not, they are just slid in, is yours rusted? I had fun taking all the rusted ones off my hood vents, saved the plastic ... whew

I don't recall seeing any runt on them. I'll see when I get home and post a pic if I can.

 

[JO5HUA]

It's been a while since I did anything in the garage but I had a productive weekend back at it

nice!

i see that blower apart and feel compelled to show you this from my build thread. so much easier when the assembly is out of the car.

Cabin Air Filter Cover Kit (G3210FC010)
Cabin Air Filter Element (G3210FC000)

I remembered reading something about adding a cabin filter a while back when I was cleaning it out but looked around the box and didn't really see how it was possible, thanks for posting

I have a broken pin on my spoiler. Is that how the mounting pins are held on from the factory? With epoxy? I have been trying to get it off, but I don't want to break anything.

Nice project by the way.

Factory the pins have a flat top and slide into a slot on the spoiler but that slot often gets gunked up and makes the pins really hard to slide out, I needed to use epoxy because the slot was so badly damaged

The firewall grommets had to be swapped out with GC and man it was hard to get some of the plugs through there, I greased them up and it helped a lot but still really hard

Got a lot of stuff from a 1st gen Legacy that seems to play nice with GC, the DRL tucks in nicely and I got plugs that match my radiator and the hoses look like they will fit well too

The Forester ECU had different mounting than GC and I didn't keep the kick panel or anything else from that car so I cut the tabs off to fit it into the GC mount

The GC computer is held in with screws on the sides but since I couldn't do that with the Forester computer I used some 3m tape to hold it down

Finished product is Forester computer that bolts right in, I also put some foam on the top of it so the kick panel can help hold it down on the tape

The fuel lines were tormenting me in my nightmares so I faced my fear and got to work identifying and connecting them, started at the engine side where I knew blue is feed and yellow is return while the little hose goes to evap

Then moved to the tank connection and hit a stumbling block, on the L tank the feed is quick connect and the return is just clamped but the forester tank is quick connect for both lines

This meant I had to drop the tank again and swap out the return lines, it also meant I connected them up wrong in the engine bay and have feed and return backwards

As much as I didn't want to drop the tank again it gave me the chance to hook up the charcoal box properly, when I first put it in I rushed and had hoses and wires all twisted and tangled up now everything is straight and not pinching and pulling on each other

Now the tank lines all connect to the chassis lines well but instead of solving my problem it just got moved to the tank connection

 

[bue car]

I found out that 93-97 fuel lines in the impreza do not have any quick release. I swapped to an 01 set up, Now I have to fish the 01 hard lines through the car and cage again. Yeay

/ rant

 

[JO5HUA]

I found out that 93-97 fuel lines in the impreza do not have any quick release. I swapped to an 01 set up, Now I have to fish the 01 hard lines through the car and cage again. Yeay

/ rant

I thought about getting another feed line from the junkyard and replacing the return line but I don't really want to do that, I think getting it out of the rear grommet first would be the way to go

The surface rust around the battery bothered me enough to finally do something about it, hit it with a wire brush and some sandpaper in the harder to reach areas

Put down some self etching primer, not sure how the rust got so bad only around the battery but maybe a battery exploded?

Then I went over it with flat black, this is one of only a few spots that I've found rust and it was the worst

A few coats of clear and I can feel good about installing the battery now, this is why you keep the hood vent plates on

I'm still undecided how to connect the return hose but whatever I do it's not going to involve taking the fuel tank down again

I found my old set of outrigger bushings from my Legacy and I think I even had them on my Forester too

One of the things that bothered me was that they don't sit metal to metal, they just compress the rubber bushing to reduce flex so I cut that all off

I probably could have stopped there but I wanted a smooth surface for the new bushings to sit on

It was a real pain but I got the outrigger and differential to come together with the subframe and bolt everything up without stripping captive nuts or breaking them free from their welds

I cut the flanges off the differential bushings that came with the subframe so the original mounting studs could be used hoping that then I could remove the diff without having to lower the subframe, however the bushings are so stiff that either the outrigger or the subframe need to be dropped to remove or install the diff

 

[WhiteScooby]

What rear subframe is that? It's beautiful