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96 Impreza Coupe
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the clear lenses look good with the ver5/6 bumper. the fluted look better with the sports bunper. youve got it right.
^This! I have joined the 97/98 fluted headlight club too a bit ago. I snatched up a set of v4 JDM facelifted fluted lenses with the leveling motors built in from JDM Gary. Then to keep the light pattern LDH I swapped over a set of LHD fluted lenses from a usdm 97/08 headlights.
 

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Discussion Starter #244 (Edited)
^ This. That's what I used. 3m Butyl Rope / Window Weld. It's what my buddy who has had a number of GCs recommended to me. Great stuff to have around. Easy to mold, seals well and still allows you to pull the light out. Feels a lot like the OEM stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484154390&sr=8-1&keywords=butyl+rubber+rope
On NASIOC I was turned to a foam gasket by hail2theTheif "For the rear taillights I would suggest making a dense foam gasket instead of silicone. The BRZ has the same style tails where it is open to the trunk with the taillights removed. When I had that car and swapped lights I noticed Subaru switched to using a foam gasket instead of silicone."

"I ordered some 1/4in dense foam from Amazon and made a template of the lights then cut to fit. I have had zero leaks here in Portland using it and I can now remove and install the taillights with ease. No worries of ripping paint off, getting silicone everywhere, or wondering if it sealed correctly."

Amazon.com: Sponge Neoprene 1/4 Thick X 54 Wide X 1' by CLEVERBRAND INC.: Home Improvement

Sure looks good to me, I've seen many cars at the junkyard with this style of seal for the tails but it never occurred to me to use it on my car lol

the clear lenses look good with the ver5/6 bumper. the fluted look better with the sports bunper. youve got it right.
They would not look good with the v5/6 bumper at all

^This! I have joined the 97/98 fluted headlight club too a bit ago. I snatched up a set of v4 JDM facelifted fluted lenses with the leveling motors built in from JDM Gary. Then to keep the light pattern LDH I swapped over a set of LHD fluted lenses from a usdm 97/08 headlights.
I found that the reflectors in the fluted housings are same left to right but the glass has some minor differences in the fluting whereas the clear lenses are identical on the newer lights but the reflectors inside are different left to right #themoreyouknow



After I straightened out the mounting platform I sprayed it with self etching primer to keep it from rusting



Did the same thing with the trunk area, I didn't realize there is a plug beneath the spare tire cone also that I could have pulled to drain it until I shot some air in there to clean it out and the plug popped



I'm going to do all the suspension work first and make sure everything is working properly before starting on the motor swap, it would be nice to do it all at once but when problems creep up it's so much harder to troubleshoot the things it could be



Pro tip: the exhaust can hold the differential but it doesn't like to



Fresh painted subframe is in and ready to get beat up by gravel, still gotta figure out a good way to mount the heat shield



I just cleared right over the primer to make it scratch resistant, it looks so good I'm tempted to do more but that's not gonna happen



Cleared the tail light holes too and you can see better in this picture just how janked the opening got, I tried my best to flatten it so I hope this new seal can still perform



I didn't get many pics of my painting process with the other parts but these ones I tried to get start to finish so I could go over it, after stripping I hit it with the self etching primer



Then with a white primer to make the color stronger, I use either a green scratch pad or fine sand paper to smooth the primers before applying the color



After color they hang in my super organized shed where I can keep them warm with the space heater, the last step is to spray clear and let them sit for about a week
 

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Discussion Starter #247 (Edited)


I cut the excess sealant off to try and flatten the mounting surface for the strut bar, thinking about putting down some silicone to fill the gaps when I put the bar back on



The strut bars had some pretty bad corrosion that always bothered me so I got some rubbing compounds and went to work, the corded drill ended up crapping out on me and had to get tossed before I was finished



The rear pieces were not so bad I just used polish but the front I cut twice and polished three times before I was satisfied, there's still a lot of rough spots but overall a tremendous improvement



Fitted the lat links and struts in the rear so just waiting on the rear bar to be done with paint to finish out the rear suspension, those are STi aluminum links in the front and cusco adjustable links in the back since the subframe has no toe adjustment



I started working on the front by pulling the struts and control arms off, wide next to narrow doesn't look like that much of a difference



An important difference is in the forward mount, the wide arms will not work with a narrow track subframe due to this difference



Narrow arms will probably work with a wide track subframe with spacers but there is a significant gap to overcome



You probably could put a different bushing in to make it work with the older subframe but as is there is no way it's going to work, I was wanting to save the subframe swap for motor swap time but it's going to happen now instead



The neoprene was much easier to cut with a fresh blade, first I traced the outline of the hole in the car and then fitted it to the light for trimming



I thought about leaving it over the bolts to hold in place and then I thought about using adhesive but I want to see how it works first, I have plenty of neoprene left to make more gaskets if it needs to be made differently
 

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The subaru of many acronyms
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For the control arms I just took an angle grinder to the bushing and slimmed up the inner metal sleeve. You can see the slight step on the rubber covering the sleeve if you trim up to that point they fit perfect.
 

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It seems the pics of the windscreen install are not gonna happen but I did get plenty of pics of the rear window, front was pretty much the same but a lot more rust



Rear glass was knifed out and tossed carelessly into the refuse bin



After cutting a ton of sealant off, the rust met the grinder and was eradicated without prejudice



Fresh primer takes about 10 minutes to cure and in that time the new glass was cleaned up



The JDM glass is in and new clips are setting in the sealant while it's still soft



The front clips should have been installed with the sealant still soft but I forgot until it was too late to matter, some of them were a real challenge to get seated properly



Getting the molding on was incredibly easy, all the clips just snapped into place



There are already captive nuts in the shelf for the wiper motor bracket so that was convenient



The forward mount is a little perplexing, I'm not sure how or where the bracket comes from but I would like to find out



It's nice that the 3rd brake light hole also works for the wiper motor



There was a nitto wiper blade much shorter attached but it wouldn't lay right because the top of it was hitting the arm so I used the passenger blade from my forester for the time being
Did you seal the back window in on your own? What did you use to reseal it? How long did it take you?

I've looked for a glass shop in seattle for quotes and no one wants to touch it because I don't need new glass just want to reseal and keep moisture out. (Rear window leak)
 

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Discussion Starter #251
Did you seal the back window in on your own? What did you use to reseal it? How long did it take you?

I've looked for a glass shop in seattle for quotes and no one wants to touch it because I don't need new glass just want to reseal and keep moisture out. (Rear window leak)
I went to this place in Edmonds after a friend got his windscreen replaced and they did a fantastic job, I'm sure they would be willing to help (425) 343-6464



I'm not really sure what my intention was with the silicone but it does fill the gaps and won't allow water to get in there, wouldn't call it a huge improvement since the mounts are already bent but I think if you did this on a new install it would help prevent the nuts from bending it when torqued



Held the motor up with my crane and got the old crossmember out, in hindsight I think it would have been better to jack it up from below



New crossmember in and it comes with new challenges, the N/A exhaust doesn't fit even after taking the heat shields off and a good bashing with a big hammer



The steering racks are interchangeable to an extent, Forester is wide track and has different splines at the steering joint so I have to source an Impreza joint to use the new rack and column



I'm not sure if the sway bar just needs to rotate more or if the moog endlinks are too fat, either way it has to come back off while I figure out the steering rack situation



I had heard that the column is shorter and doesn't work with the GC firewall but it measures the same except for the shaft is a little shorter, fitted it to the firewall and it fits just fine so I'm not sure if people are just talking about the column as a whole or what but I think the steering joint will solve any issues with fitment



It seems the writing is on the wall about it now being motor swap time I drained the fuel tank the safest way there is and recovered almost 5 gallons of fuel for the lawnmower, tried just turning the key on but the pump would shut off after 1 second running



Working my way to the front of the car removing the wiring and the residue from the sound deadening, I know that it will never be seen but it still bothers me



While the radiator is draining I am chipping away at the firewall mass, wish that I could use the auto climate controls but it's just way more electrical work than I want to do



Getting the entire harness out is more involved than you might think, I'm noticing a lot of plugs are the same so it's certainly not completely necessary but it will make chasing gremlins that much easier
 

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I went to this place in Edmonds after a friend got his windscreen replaced and they did a fantastic job, I'm sure they would be willing to help (425) 343-6464



I'm not really sure what my intention was with the silicone but it does fill the gaps and won't allow water to get in there, wouldn't call it a huge improvement since the mounts are already bent but I think if you did this on a new install it would help prevent the nuts from bending it when torqued



Held the motor up with my crane and got the old crossmember out, in hindsight I think it would have been better to jack it up from below



New crossmember in and it comes with new challenges, the N/A exhaust doesn't fit even after taking the heat shields off and a good bashing with a big hammer



The steering racks are interchangeable to an extent, Forester is wide track and has different splines at the steering joint so I have to source an Impreza joint to use the new rack and column



I'm not sure if the sway bar just needs to rotate more or if the moog endlinks are too fat, either way it has to come back off while I figure out the steering rack situation



I had heard that the column is shorter and doesn't work with the GC firewall but it measures the same except for the shaft is a little shorter, fitted it to the firewall and it fits just fine so I'm not sure if people are just talking about the column as a whole or what but I think the steering joint will solve any issues with fitment



It seems the writing is on the wall about it now being motor swap time I drained the fuel tank the safest way there is and recovered almost 5 gallons of fuel for the lawnmower, tried just turning the key on but the pump would shut off after 1 second running



Working my way to the front of the car removing the wiring and the residue from the sound deadening, I know that it will never be seen but it still bothers me



While the radiator is draining I am chipping away at the firewall mass, wish that I could use the auto climate controls but it's just way more electrical work than I want to do



Getting the entire harness out is more involved than you might think, I'm noticing a lot of plugs are the same so it's certainly not completely necessary but it will make chasing gremlins that much easier
Awesome dude thank you! I will check them out for sure.
 

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1996 Impreza Brighton
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sweet car man. it kinda makes me hate you because its so nice. keep up the good work and maybe i will see you around i am in gig harbor, WA.
 

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Discussion Starter #255
I took a million pics of my harness so I could put her back nicely haha
Luckily I have another 05 XT to look at if I get stuck, the wiring diagrams have been very helpful though

Awesome dude thank you! I will check them out for sure.
Pro tip: when quoting a pic heavy post, you can delete the pics and other stuff not related to what you are replying to

sweet car man. it kinda makes me hate you because its so nice. keep up the good work and maybe i will see you around i am in gig harbor, WA.
Don't hesitate to introduce yourself, I'm a pretty friendly person after I've had my coffee of course



Stripped out the rest of the bulkhead, the heater core really didn't want to come out of the firewall grommets and actually pulled out of the vent box



All the wiring has been removed now and the engine is ready to come out, getting the harness through the fenders is my leas favorite part



Got the last of the sound deadening out and cleaning up before working the new harness in, the firewall holes are different shapes and sizes so I'm going to have to reuse those grommets



I had to lower the chassis a bit to get the oil pan over the core support, one of the transmission crossmember captive nuts broke loose but impact still got the bolt out



Pulling the transmission and engine together means it has to tilt pretty far to get through the tunnel and gear oil will spill out the back if you don't drain the box, I had my oil change tub in place but it wasn't adequate and terrible smelling gear oil spilled on my concrete



Replacing the crossmember bushings with Kartboy, I'm still not sure how I want to approach fixing the captive nut that broke getting this thing out



I'm starting with the chassis side of the new harness and getting the SRS out first, the heated seats and power seat and ABS are all coming out too



The bulk harness is the really daunting one, I think once I start removing all the extraneous wiring it won't looks so troubling



I got the last of the ABS system out so the right side can be taped back up but the left side carries a lot more than just turn signals and horns, there wasn't much to be removed from this side except SRS sensor wiring and the ambient temp sensor so it's ready to be wrapped back up too



Steering rack is out again and putting the Forester rack back in, waiting on a steering u-joint from a wrx to put it all together and recheck fitment
 

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98 2.5RS - V2 WRX Swap
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Great progress...thanks for showing all the details. I'm hoping to do the same with my harness when the time comes.
 

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Turbo, LS swapped Impreza RS
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Yesssss finally swapping! Staying factory turbo/power level?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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2000 Impreza 2.5 RS Coupe BRP
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have you fix the trany crossmember captive nut problem? i got my 17mm captive nut crossthreaded and thinking of cutting a hole from the top and putting a bolt going down.
 
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