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Discussion Starter #204
Those diagrams were really helpful, thank you

your journal takes FOREVER to load becuase of stupid imgur linking.
Fixed for you my love

Looks dangerous, what if you get rear ended and the car seat is pushed into the bar. What if the seat belt fails and her head gets smashed into the bar?
That was pointed out to me in a crash test video and I moved her to the front seat, harnesses are coming out and regular seatbelts going back in at the request of my wife so the carseat is going back to the back seat. Thank you for your concern, I should have known better

Or the huge image sizes, haha.
Yeah that was the problem, not the first time my huge size has been an issue

What if the car gets hit by an AGM?
I thought I was the only one who understood this is a real threat, future updates will include my plan for installing a C-RAM but for now...



I couldn't help but play Subaru Barbies and change her shoes, gave my crap tires the same paint stick treatment and I think they turned out great



I took my lip spoiler to a few shops and none would touch it, they all said it would be cheaper to just get a new one so I went about painting it



The 3m tape did a good job holding to the bumper but it almost refused to stick to the lip spoiler, I figured the best way to repair it would be simply by installing it to have it held in place



Marine fiberglass epoxy filled the small crack and I tried to use it at the broken ends to hold it together a little better there just isn't much for it to bond to



I brought it inside next to a heater to see if that would help the tape stick better and it did, when the epoxy dried I painted over the crack as best I could but it could use some filler to look smooth



With the bumper off I took the time to tuck all the wires and the ballasts down out of the engine bay, I also put back my missing fender liner and replaced a few missing fasteners



I remember the nose cut had the ballasts bolted to the frame but I'm not trying to drill holes that will rust, everything is zipties and electrical tape



While I was bored waiting for paint to dry I used vinyl tape to cover the top of the windscreen from the inside, the lines from the different strips bother me a little bit but proof of concept is what it was mainly for



The fitment isn't too terrible, the crack is still visible even soaking wet and it could have been installed better by a more competent person but I'm probably going to trash it on a curb anyway so I'm happy with it now



Hood vents are back and my car is beautiful again, there's so much rain all the time this is seriously the driest picture I could get
 

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You've already solved the baby seat problem but what crx7 pointed out is kind of dumb. If the impact is large enough for the baby seat to come loose from the mounts its very unlikely that the child would survive, regardless of the potential to hit the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
You've already solved the baby seat problem but what crx7 pointed out is kind of dumb. If the impact is large enough for the baby seat to come loose from the mounts its very unlikely that the child would survive, regardless of the potential to hit the bar.
That was my only concern originally but it's not that the mounting will fail as much as the belts will stretch and allow a lot of movement in a violent collision, if they didn't stretch you would absorb much more of the impact with your body like bungee jumping with a chain instead of a bungee cord



I still feel like the front seat is a perfectly fine position for a child seat but at the wife's insistence I put it back in the rear seat, used some spare eye bolts to add child anchors to the bottom rather than the chopped up Forester brackets



Harness bar has been removed and the front seat swapped out for easier access, it makes more sense to have it like this while I'm daily driving the car and it's not like it's very difficult to swap it back



Something I found in the Foresters is that in addition to having the clamshell pocket flocked the glovebox is also flocked, it's a neat little upgrade and not hard to switch them out but this was the first one I found that wasn't damaged by a careless junkyard patron



There's a bunch of screws that hold the pocket to the door and two that also hold the lock/handle, sandwiched between them is this heavy piece of steel that is supposed to add security when you lock it but judging by the amount of broken boxes at the junkyard it is not effective so I left it out



I dug out my forester clamshell so they would match and I realized quickly how much I miss having that storage there, the gauges will go back there post XT swap but I'm getting use of the space now while I can



Since I put on the STi oil pan I needed to get the corresponding dipstick for accurate measurement, pretty sure there are just the two types and the handles are a good indicator if you are looking for one second hand



The longer dipstick looks like it could be modified easily but the STi part number was in stock and less than $20 at my dealer, in all this time this is the only progress I've made on the motor



It didn't take long for me to find out which driveways are too steep for my lip and will scrape it right off like it was only held on with tape, it stuck back on no problem but the last time I just pulled it completely off and thought of a better way to secure it



I've used that construction adhesive on home projects before and it is no joke super solid and very permanent, I was more able to control the fitment so that is much improved and there is absolutely no way this is coming apart without destroying both the lip and the bumper they are together as one now



Out of nowhere a huge package shows up on my porch and I just about crapped myself when I realized what it was, I'm feeling more motivated than ever to finish up the garage and put in some serious work on this car
 

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Discussion Starter #211
I'm getting a lot done with my Chevy projects to make room in the garage but lighting is still an issue, it is getting pretty frustrating when I have to work in there but it is better than working outside



I wasted no time getting the subframe prepped for paint, not taking any chances letting it rust



There was only one self-etching primer to choose from so that was easy, painting made me kind of wish that I had a fan in the garage so adding that to the list



Next I layered on a white primer to make the gold really bright without a bunch of coats, it was pretty hard to get into all the tight areas without going too heavy but that's what sandpaper is for



Very satisfied with the way it turned out, brightness and color are just what I wanted



So happy with the subframe that I repainted the front swaybar until it looked just as good



Driving around and I started smelling burnt oil and I thought the valve covers were maybe leaking onto the headers but of course it's a torn cv boot throwing grease everywhere. I want to put some sort of conditioner on the rubber boots to keep them from cracking, it seems like the Subaru axles themselves rarely fail but the boots are so weak. I went to the junkyard to find a replacement but all the original axles were torn or replaced with aftermarket and I had to get a reman



I did find a mint set of 98 fluted headlights at the junkyard though, the headlight bulbs sit further apart than with the clear housings so I don't think swapping the glass would be a good idea



The clear housings have the same adjustments left-right and up-down but fluted housings have the bubble levels and left to right gauges that I really like, now that I figured out how to work the clear housings I might use them again



I'm really digging the 22B look with the fluted glass, I feel like it is a much better match for the corner lights but I haven't measured light output or checked alignment as it was a purely aesthetic choice to go with fluted



The mystery of why I can't fit any 9003/H4/HB2 into the Japanese housings has some more evidence to look at, the top tab is clearly shorter which has been the issue all along I'm just not sure why it would be a different pattern
 

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Discussion Starter #218
the galss fits no problem on the fluted. that's what i have. 95 rear section, clear glass.
That looks really good, I like it a lot better than the original placement

The new subframe is BEAUTIFUL
Thanks, the gold turned out better than I expected or hoped it would

The other is MSI isnt it?
I believe so but I am not familiar with theirs, TSS has been on my radar for a while and it's a local business but I mostly chose it because a bunch of stickers and a card ended up on my windscreen one day



It took a while but I finally parted with more money than I was comfortable spending on a legit Japanese plate, it it so much bigger than a US plate and the holes actually line up with the original mounting bracket



Getting the subframe out this way was a pain but it worked, I fought it for a while before remembering the heat shield bolts



With the subframe gone it is much easier to see and access the V-bar bracket bolts and if I had to do it again I would just drop the subframe to get to them



The tubular frame was much easier to install than the steel one was to remove, I had a lot of trouble getting one of the bolts out and even more trouble getting the new bolt to go in but otherwise a really easy installation



Since there is no heat shield bracket on the TSS subframe I had to backwoods engineer a prototype flexible solution, taco lat links compliment the tubular frame nicely like the poly endlinks compliment the 24mm sway bar



There is no toe adjustment now unless I get adjustable lat links and I really didn't want to go that route, road testing confirmed wonky alignment and a lot of noise from the left rear wheel because somebody who installed a new axle never dented the nut and it backed itself out and trashed the wheel bearing I want to punch that guy in the nads whoever he is



While the hub was at the machine shop getting a new wheel bearing pressed in I took advantage of the better access and tapped the captive nut, there was some sort of blockage but it was removed easily and the new bolt went in perfect



I put my P1's back on for a better test but the lack of center caps really puts me off with those wheels, I found one that I was planning on using to fix the others but I just stuck it in to see if it would fit



The size is a match but the color and the fact that they aren't original still bugs me, not as much as an open hole there but a little bit



I painted the originals with the rattlecan that best matched the powdercoat but I want to go over the Prodrive and OZ logos with white paint or silver or something to make it look less like a button, the color matches well enough that I probably won't go looking to get a custom color rattlecan any more
 
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