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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
I used to go to the meets at Northgate but I have no idea where or when the meets are now, especially since quarantine started



I'm embarrassed to share this but I figured out the tapping sound I was hearing from cylinder 3, when I installed the spark plugs I just finger tightened them and they were all super loose but 3 was especially loose



Torqued them all down and drove it to work, no more tapping noise and I got a spot under the chairy tree



I can't get rear intermittent to work nor does the wiper return to rest position when switched off mid sweep so I removed the section of harness that goes in the rear hatch since that seems like a common place to have a wire break from opening and closing the hatch



Mounted the relay next to the motor and connected the 3 wires correctly but it still does the same crap, looking at wiring diagrams I discovered that for intermittent you need an intermittent module in place of the relay so I'm trying to use a non intermittent harness with an intermittent stalk and that explains that but what about stopping wherever it is and not returning to rest?



I have the non intermittent stalk and I swapped it in but the rest position issue is still there, strange that adding a variable intermittent stalk for the front wipers no additional wiring is needed but adding intermittent to the rear is a couple more wires and a module



After cleaning up that wiring and getting nowhere I turned my attention to the uneven lighting in the dash, I had a burnt out light in the tach and got it changed out



Another burnt out bulb in the climate control, changed it out and back to feeling confident about my abilities



Cheapest I could find the genuine 22641AA211 sensor was $139 at subaru source, put it in ever so carefully and no more trouble code



I've been driving it a lot more and even though I don't feel like it's super low I have been scraping on everything, it's stock height but the lip just catches on things I don't think are that major



Had a good impact here in a gravel parking lot, I went behind and reinforced it with some more construction adhesive but I still need to fix a lot of issues because the fiberglass is so thin
 
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Discussion Starter · #346 ·


The transmission noise I attributed to no sound deadening was getting me concerned enough to check the dipstick and the thing was bone dry, I added 3 quarts to bring it up to level and it shifted much smoother but still pretty noisy so I drained the oil after a few miles to see what damage had been done



No big chunks of metal like I had feared but a few little hard pieces of something like pencil lead, there was some more grit but very fine like sand or soft and I could smear like mud



Nothing major on the drain plug magnet either, I remember now when I spilled a bunch of oil out the tailshaft in my shed and I figured I would just fill it once it's in the car so it doesn't just spill again but that obviously never happened



Putting some of my fears to rest I moved on to the oil cooler leak, for some reason the Forester has extra plates between the cooler and the block that also need o-rings for a total of 4 o-rings to be changed



I remember changing the o-ring on the cooler itself and that one looked good as new but it doesn't help if it's leaking from one of the three o-rings above it, all the parts were super dirty and this is after I cleaned them



The plate that actually goes on the block has the same o-ring as the cooler and you can tell it's pretty flattened, I'm curious if I could just delete the plates and put the cooler directly on the block but not gonna happen any time soon



The block might be cast differently for the Forester, I have no idea but I'm happy to see there is no oil anywhere above the oil cooler assembly



This first painted steel plate is attached with the center bolt and has a pin going into the block to keep it from rotating, there's two o-rings for this part alone



The next plate is aluminum and is attached by all the 10mm bolts, there's another smaller o-ring on the topside that goes around the nipple going into the first plate



Then you can put the actual cooler on and I found it easier to put the coolant hoses on first then install it, very happy with how clean and oil free everything looks and I'm looking forward to not smelling burnt oil at stoplights now

Overall I'm pretty happy with how things have worked out with the swap, no major fails just forgetting to tighten the spark plugs and forgetting to fill the transmission and forgetting to torque down the endlinks... I'm still proud of what I've accomplished. Even though it's been done by many people already and I didn't really do anything unique it still feels like I did something special. I've done engine swaps before but the GC turbo swap is something I put on a pedestal for so long and now I finally did it.

Eventually I will get the VF48 back in there but for now I just want to make sure everything is solid and dependable. The transmission doesn't give me a lot of confidence but the 6 speed swap isn't something I want to take on. The 4.44 ratio with the Forester gear is pretty sweet until I am cruising on the freeway at 3-3.5k. I looked at replacement 5 speeds while I was freaking out about running it with no oil and the JDM bugeye WRX 5 speed has the same 4th and 5th ratio, also 4.44 but taller 1-3rd gears and I think that would be ideal even without lowering the freeway cruising rpm.

Might be the last update for a while, I'm ready to work on my other projects that need my attention. I got some Bilsteins for my 4runner that I really want to put on and my deck still needs trim boards and painting. My Caprice is taking up 2 spaces with all the shit that needs to go on it so combining all that into one space is pretty high on the list. I don't really want to do any of that honestly, I've been working so much lately all I want to do is lay around and enjoy quarantine Summer but it's hard to relax with unfinished projects everywhere.
 
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EJ255 non-STi motors got smaller oil coolers with the multiple plates or none at all (Thanks GR!). An upgrade would be an EJ205 WRX or EJ257 STi oil cooler with the corresponding header. The car looks great for 200K+ miles!
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
At least it was just the plugs being loose. Most anything else would be annoying. To say the least.
Fantastic job, enjoy the car. And the accomplishment.
Thanks man, this build has me feeling a nice mix of pride and humility
I've never noticed the multiple piece oil cooler before. Good job Subaru, one more place to leak oil from!
How else are they gonna get to that 1qt per 1000 miles "normal" oil consumption?
EJ255 non-STi motors got smaller oil coolers with the multiple plates or none at all (Thanks GR!). An upgrade would be an EJ205 WRX or EJ257 STi oil cooler with the corresponding header. The car looks great for 200K+ miles!
The 255 engine is such a hodgepodge of parts, I'll keep that in mind when the o-rings inevitably fail again. That cluster is about 25k short of the actual mileage too!



I drove it to work and I want to drive this car more often but a few things sketch me out, every time I park it I say "I gotta check out that suspension noise, replace that dying battery, see where that oil is coming from, put a collar on the steering column so it doesn't look like I stole it, etc..." and then I just ignore those things and swap the wheels



The GR STi seats are so close to fitting and I am determined to use them, the front holes are tight but fit without modification while the rear holes need some work



The hole I drilled is so close to the bend in the steel that I had to use a bolt with a smaller head, safety is clearly not the priority with this modification



For the inside mount I'm going to drill a hole in the trans tunnel and bolt it in like I did with the harnesses, it looks like a spacer will also need to be used because the GR points are slightly narrower



The Recaro seat got a lot of complaints for being uncomfortable so now my passengers can sit in the most comfortable seat Subaru ever made, I still haven't bolted up the inside rear mount but it will happen



I got the harness and module from a car that actually came with the intermittent rear wiper hoping it would solve all my wiper issues, hoping...



The harness has two additional wires that run to the column but the rest are the same with the module taking the place of the relay



I ran those wires up to the correct pins in the column harness and the intermittent "worked" but the wiper still doesn't return to resting position even in intermittent it would start and stop in random places, I can only conclude that there is something wrong with my wiper motor or the wagon motor has a different sweep so the harness is sending a signal that gets interpreted in a weird way? All things considered I don't give a shit about the rear wiper any more and I'm ready to just disconnect it entirely



I never knew the little grilles by the door latch are actually intended to have tweeters behind them, found a pair at the junkyard and snagged them



The harness is really simple, it just connects where the door speaker is mounted and uses a parallel connection which should result in an increased load on the amplifier so not sure how this will sound
 
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Discussion Starter · #352 ·


Sport bumper down, I was just driving normally when the turbo spools at 12mph and I hit a puddle...



The turn signal is rekt and the corner light too, good thing they made these out of fiberglass so it can be repaired



The only metal damaged was a slight twist in the end of the bumper support



The cracks are pretty significant, especially the one that goes through the top edge



A lot of small cracks in this area and the turn signal mount has broken free



There's a visible history of crap repairs on this bumper already, probably not gonna fix it with construction adhesive this time around



The construction adhesive worked but, in hindsight, not the best solution



The lower mount has also broken free, when I pulled off the beam it just fell out



It wasn't hard to just twist the end flat again, the metal is so flimsy on the lightweight JDM beam



Browsing craigslist for a temporary bumper and I came across this open box deal for such a low price I couldn't say no, curious how it will sound with downpipe, up pipe and now manifold all invidia and turboxs cat(less) back
 

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Discussion Starter · #355 ·


Been a while since I was under the car, pretty obvious the valve cover is leaking



The other side doesn't look so bad, what I was actually looking for was an exhaust leak



I'm not sure if the carbon on the gasket is confirmation of a leak but it really sounded like there was an exhaust leak



Either way some new gaskets are going on, they are directional and the compression side goes toward the manifold



It was kind of a pain to fit but there was just enough flex to get it over the head studs and I was able to get the nuts on



The up pipe was difficult to align but I was able to force it, the up pipe gasket is also directional and compression side or shiny side goes toward the up pipe



After a couple drives the color is starting to come in, I was thinking about wrapping it but clearance seems to be enough to not warrant it



The oil cooler clears and it's clear the STi oil pan is necessary with an equal length header



I noticed the Outback XT at the junkyard had a check valve in the brake vacuum hose so I added it in line on my single stage booster, I assumed there was a check valve in the intake manifold nipple when I was plumbing it but it seems I was pushing 10+ lbs of boost into the brake booster pretty regularly and that's not good



What I really wanted from the OBXT was the 4.44 5-speed, it has the same 4-5 as the Forester XT and the taller 1-3 from the WRX so I'm excited to see the difference
 
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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
What are you going to do for the speed sensor, with the OBXT trans?
I'd like to try to install the sensor from the Forester first but if that involves splitting the case I'll just use a wheel speed sensor, I have the abs hubs and axles so it might be the easier route



Some of the cracks are longer than they appeared before sanding them, scraping the paint revealed some more hidden cracks also



The cracks around the turn signal and the lower edge under the lip are some of the worst and the most deforming to the overall shape



As large as the cracks at the top of the bumper are they are the easiest to move back into place after sanding, there is still some tension that pulls them apart so a jig while the new glass dries is going to be a must



Some of the cracks that look difficult from the front look really easy to fix and reinforce from the back, the bigger ones should be no problem



The mounting tabs for the turn signal and bumper beam look challenging and I might end up cutting the top layer of glass apart in order to rebuild them



This whole situation here is so destroyed I want to break all the loose shards out to rebuild it in a solid way but my concern is getting the shape the same so the lower mount is aligned



It makes me a little sad that she's back in the garage, I wanted to be finished when the engine was running and driving and I certainly didn't want to be doing bumper repair



Instead of getting more involved in the bumper fix or the transmission replacement I got the door cards off and installed the tweeter kit that came from a sedan, I thought it was strange the length of wire that was used but when installed in a coupe it seems to be more necessary



I had thought for so long there should be a tweeter in there or something, wondering what is the point of the grille there and it just makes sense now



Before I put the door cards back on I took the window tint off with a heat gun, I didn't like the visibility at night and I like the look from the outside better too
 

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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
Transmission jobs suck. Cusco brace needs to come off, exhaust needs to come off, even the downpipe needs to come off, heat shield needs to come off, driveshaft needs to come off, axles need to come off... all to get this heavy, awkward ass box full of gears and what smells like Satan's diarrhea. Good times



I pulled the VSS plug in hopes that maybe, just maybe there was the shaft and gear already installed but no such luck



I needed to see if the shaft was even cut for a VSS so the first step was removing the extension case



Splitting the case really drives home the made-of-glass nature of these transmissions



The shaft is indeed cut for the VSS so I can install one after all, the cost of those abs speed sensors from DCCD pro is just too much so I'm sticking with what I've got



This is what all of this work is for, Outback XT gear ratios are the same as the WRX but with 4.44 final



The Forester XT 1-2 are shorter and with the smaller Impreza wheels they really run out quickly, it doesn't look like much of a difference on paper honestly



After pulling apart the Forester transmission and swapping the VSS shaft and gear, I squirted the case with gray RTV and slowly put them together while turning the input shaft to get the VSS gear to engage smoothly without destroying it because it's made of plastic???



This little paper gasket goes for $10 and after gear oil the total spent on this transmission is now just past $300



The extension housing is a little tricky to install, the shift rod goes into the housing and hooks to the 3-4 shaft but managing this situation is an exercise in patience



I had trouble getting it to go any further than this, I had all the forks in neutral so the shift rod was too loose and would move around so I engaged 3rd and it kept the shift rod in place and allowed turning the input shaft to line up the splines with the center diff
 
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