After doing some searches on my own, I have only gotten more confused about engine managment for a turbo'd rs. I don't know if i want a full stand alone or a piggyback. Which is better for the "home enthusiast"? I like the link system cause i don't need a laptop(i think) because u can buy for a small price that lcd display tuner link instead of a laptop.Right? The link can change a/f, boost, knck, and ect. I also like the J&S safeguard. Altough it isn't "tunable" it does most of the work of knock control for me, since i am new at this. Also, it is drastically less then the link. I want to turbo my rs when i get it, and i only want to run 4-6 psi of boost. I also want to get the most outta the car without recking the engine or drastically reducing the engine's life span. If it doesn't seem like i can meet these goals, i guess i will stay n/a.
I am so confused
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I know how you feel. I went down the list of methods andended up deciding on the Link2 since it will do everything I need it to. I can lose the MAF setup from my MY99 RS, it will detect knock and allow me to adjust for it, I can use it to control boost, it retains all of the stock sensors so it doesn't require new ones and uses the sensors to tune the engine, it even lists controlling water injection as a option, can alter fuel maps and its alot cheaper then a TEC2 or TEC3. Besides I'm only out to run 6psi for now. Of course I'm still adding all the usual gauges so I can keep an eye on things and the KnockLink sounds like a really good idea. Another bonus is I can keep my A/C and control the radiator fans.
Go w/ the link plus. It is cheep for what it is, it will do anything you want it to when it comes to forced induction, and it is a piece of cake to use. I've been running it for almost 6 months and I love it.
I've decided to wait and get the DNT s/c kit that is coming out. It seems like it will be more practical and more reliable. I will still get a link plus. :sunny: I don't like the boost creep and spikes from turbo's , plus all i really wanna do is smoke some hondas. Thanks all.
Boost creep and spikes? Sounds more like we're referring to a 4G63 then a EJ25 then. Haven't talked to too many Subaru owners who have ever seen anything close to boost creep or spike. Especially since you could always buy a used kit off of somebody for around $2K and then buy the Link2 and be paying about the same for the S/C kit minus having the Link2.
sorry
I see I was wrong. I guess i haven't talked to the rs-t owners on this board. I assumed boost spikes and boost creep was a univeral problem. I still want the s/c kit because it is different. O well. I will think about the used turbo kit tho.
I see I was wrong. I guess i haven't talked to the rs-t owners on this board. I assumed boost spikes and boost creep was a univeral problem. I still want the s/c kit because it is different. O well. I will think about the used turbo kit tho.
Yeah, I would rather get the SC over a turbo kit, partly just because it's so much easier to install, but mostly because I think a SC is a better idea than a turbo, boost available as long as the engine is turning, don't have the lag likea turbo.
There would still be parasitic loss and the need for fuel management as well as a fuel pump that can ramp up the fuel pressure as fast as the SC sends the increased air flow. Most pumps are built for turbo style setups where boost is increased at a little more constant rate rather then all of a sudden like the SC setup. Jackson Racing wrote in SCC mag a few years back about the same problems that they had with the bypass closing and the motor suddenly needed an increased amount of fuel. That is why their kits come with a Jackson Racing fuel pump. I also was never big on the idea of adding another pump to the engine bay to take up more room. That and I only paid $2K for Shiv's project cars turbo kit complete.
I thought that an SC delivered boost in a more linear fashion than a turbo, which tends to hit once it reaches the proper speed. But an SC's boost is directly related to engine speed, not exhaust velocity. Am I missing something here?
The JRSC was basically capable of 5lbs with just a stab of the gas so they needed a fuel pump that could support the sudden need for more fuel.
OK, I get what you're saying.
how much does a link plus cost and where can you get one?
Nate
Nate
AMR sells them. They sell for close to $1400.
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