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Discussion Starter #1
I have heard all the specs and measuring methods, but no one has talked about how to physically adjust the alignment. The rear looks easy enough, but how do I make camber adjustments on the front suspension? I am going to be be going from a 1.5" drop to a 1" lift and I am sure I will need some big adjustments. Thanks in advance!
 

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aside from the specialty tools (or machine) to measure camber, caster, and toe accurately, an alignment is easy...

in the front, camber and toe are adjustable from the factory.

to adjust camber: the upper bolt in the shock is concentric, loosen up the nut and turn the bolt... this SHOULD give you about 1-1.5 degrees of total adjustment. factory spec on a GM6 is somewhere around .4 degrees negative.

to adjust toe: loosen the jam nut on the steering arm and turn the rod that goes into the ball joint.. this is just to the front of the shock and it pretty apparent once you're under the car. factory spec is somewhere around 0 degrees (i'd check exactly but the alignment machine is downstairs :D)

in the rear only toe is adjustable from the factory
to adjust this loosen the bolt where the rear LCA is bolted to the frame. this one is tricky to adjust accurately becaue the bolt actually goes through a concentric bushing, and the position of the bushing is what determines your toe setting.

If you don't know what you are doing or are not familiar with any part of the process i suggest taking the car to a shop for the alignment, they aren't expensive and if you ask REALLY nicely they will usually align the car to your specifications instead of the factory ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you very much, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. I think I also found an adjustment for the rear camber. Where the lower tire-rod type things bolt to the chassis there appears to be another concentric mount. I dont' know all the proper words, but I think you know which rods I am talking about. (The ones the rear sway bar mounts to). It looks like the mounting position can be rotated to pull those rods in or out. If I am not making sense I will take some pictures with my digital camera and show you. Thanks again.

-Andy
 

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That's what adjusts the rear toe. Only the rear rod is adjustable, the front isn't. By adjusting the eccentric, you pivot the rear of the wheel either in or out, getting toe-in or toe-out. If you want rear camber adjustment you'll either need to install rear camber plates (probably the best from a performance and range of adjustment view, but worse from a NVH view), or get aftermarket eccentric ("crash") bolts for the strut-to-hub connection.

Sean
www.subrew.com
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, ok, Thanks. So Safir and I were talking about the same part. The Lower Control Arm. (The rear one to be exact). I am pretty sure the MRT makes some adjustable LCAs that can be used to adjust the camber..I think I may have to get those. And that will help eliminate the problem of road noise...although this is a rally project so noise to expected. Thank you for the info.

-Andy
 
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