[Circaisdashiat]

So ive made a few threads on what my RS is doing and i thought it was a vacuum leak, but it doesnt seem so as i have checked and cant find any disconnected hoses or anything.

My car will start, but as soon as the RPMS drop to idle it stalls out. I can hold the throttle down and it will run as long as my foot is on the gas.

I tried to drive it like this, but as soon as it goes under load it kills the engine. I have to keep the RPMs above 3000 to be able to let the clutch out. And then it starts bucking if I try to drive.

Last night i was checking the car for vacuum leaks and i was starting it to see if there was any changes with what i was trying.

Nothing i did kept the car running.

One thing i noticed was that my IAC valve (i think) was getting really hot, but when i put my hand on the head it was cold...

I took the valve off and pushed the little plunger in, and when i started my car the engine reved itself up to about 4000rpms and then would fall back down and then stall out..

Un plugged the IAC and it ran worse, but symptoms were the same.

Then i took out the IAC completely and the car would barley run when started and ran really rough...

All this time IAC is too hot to touch, but engine is still cold or warm.

Plugged the IAC back in and re installed it, and i un plugged the battery and put in the other ECU i have.

Re started it and It ran better, but CEL came on almost instantly and then it stalled out as usual.

Plugged the check mode connectors in a got a flashing CEL, tried to start it once, but didnt want to mess with it after that.

This is the valve im talking about

 

[Gene4ace]

try swapping iac valves or throttle body with a known good car.

 

[xilles]

coolant goes through that it will get hot if its been running. also what year is this vehicle. my first guess would be maf or map for the later year models

 

[Circaisdashiat]

its a 2000 MAP system.

All there is, is wires going to that valve.... i dont see any coolant lines.

 

[Circaisdashiat]

try swapping iac valves or throttle body with a known good car.

I live in Tucson, AZ. There are like 2 more RS's in this city, and i dont know anyone.

 

[Skidd]

The coolant goes through the TB itself. Look on the lower side of the TB.

 

[01rs25]

If your unplugged that sensor and it didn't make a difference in the way it was running, it would make me believe it would be the likely culprit...

You said a CEL came on... What was it for?

 

[Circaisdashiat]

If your unplugged that sensor and it didn't make a difference in the way it was running, it would make me believe it would be the likely culprit...

You said a CEL came on... What was it for?

I dont own a scanner but a scanned the car a few days ago and i got

P0107 - Map sensor
P1111 - Atmosphere pressure sensor
P1112 - Atmosphere pressure sensor

I replaced the MAP and nothing changed so thats why i thought it was a vacuum leak... but i cant find anything that doesnt look right.

 

[Circaisdashiat]

I havent had a chance to scan it since the got the flashing CEL.

 

[01rs25]

To find a vacuum leak, I generally tend to spray WD-40 or the like, I spray it all over the motor and listen for any increase in RPMS.

 

[Circaisdashiat]

Well the car doesnt idle for more then a few seconds... so that would be kinda tough..

 

[GM6er]

Had the exact symptoms

i replaced the PVC Valve and it doesnt stall anymore.
but for some reason, it would still idle low.

check my thread.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82161

 

[Joshua]

you can try cleaning your IAC, after you remove it soak it in carb cleaner and try to get it cleaned off... Also if you remove your throttle body see if you can get air to move threw where the IAC would go it can get clogged in there too.

 

[Circaisdashiat]

Well when i took the IAC valve off i could hear the air whistling through the hole so i know its not plugged.

I didnt even think of the PCV valve. I will try to pick one up after work today

 

[Circaisdashiat]

bought a new PCV valve. Ill swap it out tomorrow.

 

[Super]

So?

 

[Sarra]

Test your battery. Mine was doing this... I replaced the battery, and it runs just fine now.

Also, you can clean the IAC. Though... I'm surprised you didn't pull the codes with the CEL came on. o.o

 

[Lilromedak]

So ive made a few threads on what my RS is doing and i thought it was a vacuum leak, but it doesnt seem so as i have checked and cant find any disconnected hoses or anything.

My car will start, but as soon as the RPMS drop to idle it stalls out. I can hold the throttle down and it will run as long as my foot is on the gas.

I tried to drive it like this, but as soon as it goes under load it kills the engine. I have to keep the RPMs above 3000 to be able to let the clutch out. And then it starts bucking if I try to drive.

Last night i was checking the car for vacuum leaks and i was starting it to see if there was any changes with what i was trying.

Nothing i did kept the car running.

One thing i noticed was that my IAC valve (i think) was getting really hot, but when i put my hand on the head it was cold...

I took the valve off and pushed the little plunger in, and when i started my car the engine reved itself up to about 4000rpms and then would fall back down and then stall out..

Un plugged the IAC and it ran worse, but symptoms were the same.

Then i took out the IAC completely and the car would barley run when started and ran really rough...

All this time IAC is too hot to touch, but engine is still cold or warm.

Plugged the IAC back in and re installed it, and i un plugged the battery and put in the other ECU i have.

Re started it and It ran better, but CEL came on almost instantly and then it stalled out as usual.

Plugged the check mode connectors in a got a flashing CEL, tried to start it once, but didnt want to mess with it after that.

This is the valve im talking about

So ive made a few threads on what my RS is doing and i thought it was a vacuum leak, but it doesnt seem so as i have checked and cant find any disconnected hoses or anything.

My car will start, but as soon as the RPMS drop to idle it stalls out. I can hold the throttle down and it will run as long as my foot is on the gas.

I tried to drive it like this, but as soon as it goes under load it kills the engine. I have to keep the RPMs above 3000 to be able to let the clutch out. And then it starts bucking if I try to drive.

Last night i was checking the car for vacuum leaks and i was starting it to see if there was any changes with what i was trying.

Nothing i did kept the car running.

One thing i noticed was that my IAC valve (i think) was getting really hot, but when i put my hand on the head it was cold...

I took the valve off and pushed the little plunger in, and when i started my car the engine reved itself up to about 4000rpms and then would fall back down and then stall out..

Un plugged the IAC and it ran worse, but symptoms were the same.

Then i took out the IAC completely and the car would barley run when started and ran really rough...

All this time IAC is too hot to touch, but engine is still cold or warm.

Plugged the IAC back in and re installed it, and i un plugged the battery and put in the other ECU i have.

Re started it and It ran better, but CEL came on almost instantly and then it stalled out as usual.

Plugged the check mode connectors in a got a flashing CEL, tried to start it once, but didnt want to mess with it after that.

This is the valve im talking about

Did you ever figure out why iac valve was getting hot?mine does the same.gets hot with key in on position..