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Discussion Starter #1
I have an idea for a homemade intake and i was wondering what you guys think about it. constructed of 3" pvc pipe and plexiglass for the air boxes. tell me what you guys think I'm not realy sure how close to the bottom of the car I plan on placing it. But if yall have any input it would be great. Thank you.
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza RS
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THe PVC could poison you by heating up and releasing noxious fumes. That is all I would have to say about that.

Nick C.
 

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Poison. Yeah, WHATever! ;)

I made one out of PVC (which you can see a few photos at my homepage in one of the image galleries - www.rs25.com) and it worked fine.

No problems until I came to a one foot deep river in the middle of the road last winter, and my intake was only about 14" off the ground. Scary! I since removed it, but while I had it on there it felt like it made a difference. No dyno testing, sorry! :biggest:

Keep in mind that the air filter box acts as a plenum, so removing it will most likely cause a loss of torque. Or is it horsepower? Basically, keep a box the same size as the air filter housing and you're good. :D
 

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When PVC is heated, as happens under the hood, it releases chlorine gas. Not exactly a good thing, especially in your intake charge. I'm not exactly sure what effect it has on everything, but I'm pretty sure it can't be good. Try to use ABS tubing, should work just as well, but no evil gasses emitted when it's heated. Mind you, I'm no chemist, this is just stuff I've picked up over time, but I do know that you shouldn't inhale the fumes you get when you burn vinyl, and that's what the V in PVC stands for, so why make your engine inhale it if you don't have to?
 

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I think the amount of air being sucked through the intake, vs. the amount of chlorine gas being emitted, is probably nearly undetectable. Personally.

Doesn't that make sense?
 

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Heh, now I see why you are the way you are James. All that twitching and uncalled for shouting now has a source, the PVC piping you used!:checkit:

Nick C.
 

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RS25.com said:
I think the amount of air being sucked through the intake, vs. the amount of chlorine gas being emitted, is probably nearly undetectable. Personally.

Doesn't that make sense?
Yeah, it does make sense. But why risk it when ABS pipe will work just as well, but without the chlorine gas?
 

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So for sure ABS does not produce chlorine??

I have 3" ABS between my "torque box" and filter box.
I'm going to replace the Filter bo, with a cone filter and change the 2.5" elbow attached to the "torque box" to a 3".


I was going to buy some 3" aluminum mandrel bends, but if ABS is for sure OK I will just stick with what I have.
 

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RS25.com said:
Why PCV? Because black is cooool! :checkit:

:lol:
Then get black ABS.

ABS is the polymerization of Acrylonitrile, Butadiene, and Styrene monomers. Chemically, this thermoplastic family of plastics is called "terpolymers", in that they involve the combination of three different monomers to form a single material that draws from the properties of all three.

ABS possesses outstanding impact strength and high mechanical strength, which makes it so suitable for tough consumer products. Additionally, ABS has good dimensional stability and electrical insulating properties.

ABS materials are resistant to attack from inorganic salts, alkalis, many acids, most alcohols and hydrocarbons, but they are soluble in ketones, aldehydes, esters, and some chlorinated hydrocarbons. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight will cause surface cracking and discoloration.

Moisture does not affect the electrical properties of ABS, which remain constant over a wide range of frequencies. Although general purpose grades of ABS have low burn rates, flame retardant grades have been developed in response to increasingly stringent safety standards.

Ease of fabrication is a major attribute of this product. It can be thermo-formed, pressure formed, blow molded, sheared, sawed, drilled, or even "cold stamped". Joints can be ultrasonic welded, thermo-welded, and chemically bonded.
 

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PVC, polyvinyl chloride, is only one member of the vinyl family of homopolymers and copolymers. PVC is produced in a wide variety of forms: from clear thin flexible sheet used in seat covers, to rigid thick sheet used in corrosion resistant applications Because of the extensive selection of different types of PVC, only rigid sheet will be reviewed here.

PVC is the oldest sheet product in the market used for corrosion resistant tanks, ducts, fume hoods, and pipe. Additionally, PVC has excellent chemical resistance, excellent electrical properties, low moisture absorption, good dimensional strength, and good compressive strength. When these properties are coupled with PVC's flame resistance, chemical bondability, and thermoweldability, it is easy to understand why PVC is so frequently the material of choice in the corrosive resistant industry.

The major disadvantages of PVC are poor weatherability, relatively low impact strength, and fairly high weight for thermoplastic sheet (specific gravity 1.35). It is easily scratched or marred, and possesses a relatively low heat distortion point (160¡).

Unplasticized PVC is produced in two major formulations: Type I (corrosion resistant) and Type II (high impact).

Type I PVC is the most commonly used PVC, but in applications where higher impact strength than that offered by Type I is required, Type II offers better impact properties with a slight loss in corrosion resistance. In applications required a high temperature formulation, PVDF is usable to approximately 280¡F.
 

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RS25.com said:
Man, where'd all these smart people come from? :lol:
We all came from I-Club, whre they didn't appeciacte our minds, they just wanted out bodies;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ahh yes of coarse never thought of the poisons so i guess ABS it is thanks guys i'll let yall know how it works when i finish it in prob about 3-4 weeks
funds low very low...
 

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Did mine this weekend, I will have to get some pictures as this thing looks great!
I made a lexan Sheild to keep the filter cool, and ran some ducting from the foglight through the hole in the fender.
I used some beefy angle iron to bolt the MAF down.

I still have the smaller 2.5" elbow on the torque box (will be my next project), none the less there is noticabley more power from 2500rpm up, the biggest difference is 5500rpm + it really screams!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
on second thought i'm thinkin maybe that weapon-r intake don't look to shabby. anyone got one and know how well it works???
 
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