I'm in Cyprus, it's around 10-12 deg C during the nights here right now.. So not cold at all to have cold start problems.. Anyways, fresh fuel might help...Lack of combustion event could very well be bad gas. Being as cold as it is up where I am, I have to deal with bad gas after a car sits for 6 months. Ethanol likes to collect moisture. Get 5-10gallons of good gas, a bottle of heat or any other moisture preventitive and dump that in the tank before trying to find a problem that doesn't exist. Crank it over a fair amount so you can pump all the nasty gas out of the rails and lines.
Car was running fine three years back. I changed timing belt and valve shims. Timing assembled according to manual, engine spins freely with noticed evenly spaced compression phases, everything seems to be OK. On the electrical and control side of things there's much more stuff changed. New style inlet manifold, all sensors, ECU. That's why I mainly focused on this...If it doesn't start then, pull your plugs and compression test it. Yes it sucks, but again, no need to chase a wiring problem if you have a few dead cylinders. Odds are good it isn't this as most low compression cars still fire on the good cylinders.
Thanks! Will try to spend some time testing today.Assuming you have done both of those, back probe or stick a noid light on an injector. If you see a signal and they are not clogged carry on.
Pull a plug and a coil pack and ground it on the block, turn over and check for a spark.
As for the cam sensor, which should fire your injectors in this case, the best way to test this would be an oscilloscope. A multimeter will show a switching signal (depending on the tooth count ) but an o-scope would be more accurate.
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